1957 Johnson QDL-18 10hp (recommended oil and ratio)

JBrit12

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Hey guys, finishing up the process of getting my father's (once his father's) QDL-18 Johnson 10hp rebuilt and ready to fire for the first time in 30+ years. Unfortunately there was gas left in the tank (old style pressurized 6 gallon 1956 or prior with hole in middle of diaphragm for fuel pump push rod) for maybe that long as well so you can imagine the horror. However, I had good luck/fortune and was able to clean it up quite successfully with some phosphoric acid and elbow grease. All the tank components have been thoroughly cleaned with new gaskets, double hose line, and diaphragm on the way delivered by Friday. All other parts are totally reusable (float is free, gauge works perfect, foot valve/screen are clear and allows water to pass, etc.) so I wanted to keep it as original as possible. When the tank was finished I went ahead and put a few ounces of Amsoil HP 2-stroke synthetic in there and taped it off to slosh it around and ensure that no flash rust appeared on the gray coating the acid left which I understood should have inhibited rust anyways but I wanted to be sure. When I told my friend this who just bought and rebuilt a 1954 Johonson 5.5hp, he was concerned and asked me if the oil was appropriate simply because it says injector oil on the front. I told him it had good reviews and has the TC-W3 designation and says 50:1 premix. With that being said, I wanted to ask anyone on here if that is a good way to go because I know the original formula called for 24:1 but have done a lot of research saying that newer oils are better and older motors can be run much leaner so I was aiming for like 32:1 maybe at first and then go from there. My thinking is that the motor has sat forever and probably needs a little extra oil to start off with for the lubrication and then I'd play around with it to see what it really likes as ease of starting, idling, smoke, excess oil on the water all come to mind. Any ideas or thoughts/suggestions or do/don'ts?

On a side note, the engine itself is immaculate with only a very little wear and tear on the paint in the obvious places. When we took the cover off it was basically dust free inside with absolutely no corrosion. We tested the lower unit pressure to 60lbs+ and it had no leaks and the gear lube has been replaced. The only noticeable damage was broken coils (the covers were all cracked and discolored which I understand to be common with those after many years) but I already have 2 new OMC ones to put on but still waiting for my own flywheel puller to get here which also comes Friday. We lightly sanded the points and those along with the condensers were spotless even though they may need replacing as I'll find out. The plugs are still in there from 30+ years ago and are really clean and they both throw a spark but only when in the top so I'm hoping it was just that coil for the bottom, but like I said, I'll find out. The plug wires are still rubbery and flexible with no cuts or anything. The carb looked pretty dang good too but has not been rebuilt or cleaned so we'll see. My father said when it last ran it was ran dry and stored. My buddy thinks it will fire right up so that is the hope as he's on his 4th rebuild in the past year or two. I also have a 1968 1.5hp Evinrude that is very clean (zero rust in its gas tank) with very few hours that is next inline along with replacing the wooden trim on his 14' aluminum Starcraft which the motors will once again join in tandem to hopefully hit the water come spring.
HPM.jpg
This is the oil I was going to use as my premix. Thanks a ton for any help, tips, etc.
 

oldboat1

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Welcome, JBrit. Will be a nice restoration.

You will find many opinions on 2-cycle oils -- recommend the original 24:1 mix, whatever your choice. Rich/lean can refer to the oil ratio, or the air/fuel mix adjustment at the carb. The air/fuel mix will take a lean setting if the carb is clean and the motor is in good running condition (ignition). Plugs are J4J (now J4C) -- recommend the Champions. You may be able to use the plugs you have (use and regap).

Motors usually bite the dust due to overheating -- replacing the water pump impeller is the first step (wouldn't try to fire it up with the old impeller).

good luck with it (Keep posting.)
 

F_R

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The oil mix war will never end. One thing I might mention is that the pre-1961 QD models had a notorious problem with beating the wrist pins loose in the pistons. For that reason, my personal suggestion is to use the original oil mix, 24:1. Even at that mix, those wrist pins will loosen in you run it long enough. But why challenge them?
 

JBrit12

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Thanks oldboat1, I should have mentioned the water pump impeller as something I will definitely be watching if it does fire. It will immediately be shut down if no water is coming out like it should be. It is something I have never done and was something I was hopefully going to be able to put off until actually wanting to take it out on the water for a day of fishing. At this point I was hoping to just be able to fire it for a short period of time and then tackle the other things (that may or may not need immediate replacement) in the garage over the winter. The plugs as well, obviously I'm not going to avoid spending $5 for 2 new plugs but they throw a hell of a spark still and I thought it would be neat to fire it with as much original on it as possible. I would definitely not consider it safe for the water until I go through a few more things like you've mentioned. I'll keep posting too with results but it may be a few weeks yet especially if I have to order additional parts that seem OK at this point. Even if it does fire it may even get new points and condensers since the coils will be new. I will also probably get a carb kit too. If it doesn't that is my next step anyways along with new plug wires possibly even though they all look clean and new. I'm a complete newbie at this but have really taken a liking to it and just want to take my time as there is no rush.
 

JBrit12

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The oil mix war will never end. One thing I might mention is that the pre-1961 QD models had a notorious problem with beating the wrist pins loose in the pistons. For that reason, my personal suggestion is to use the original oil mix, 24:1. Even at that mix, those wrist pins will loosen in you run it long enough. But why challenge them?


Thanks F_R, 2 votes for 24:1, that's where I'll start then. If she runs good that's where she'll stay. Nothing wrong with it when it was left on its stand and wrapped 30 years ago so I'm not assuming any mechanical problems at this time. I'll let you know what I run into though good or bad. Thanks.
 

oldboat1

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Yup. All good. Will nag you about the impeller -- don't want to have a 30 yr old impeller breaking up, and spreading bits and pieces up in the cooling system. I would just replace it before any test running -- easy fix on the 10.
 

JBrit12

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Yup. All good. Will nag you about the impeller -- don't want to have a 30 yr old impeller breaking up, and spreading bits and pieces up in the cooling system. I would just replace it before any test running -- easy fix on the 10.
You convinced me, I went ahead and ordered an entire kit for it and found the directions and seems easy enough for sure. Thanks.
SIE-18-3377_lg__97876.1469113120.190.285.jpg
Should be here in a day or two!
 

JBrit12

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I got the coils on the engine and now have spark at both plugs so that is good. However, couldn't get it to fire so I'm tackling the carb with a new entire carb kit with all the gizmos and gadgets which will hopefully solve that issue. We were getting fuel to the engine but not to the plugs so I'm going to pull the gas lines from there and the fitting and check those as well. Unfortunately, my tank restoration went good and bad. It was cleaned really good and I'm pretty anal about that stuff and it would push gas out the line with just a couple pumps of the primer but it leaks. I put 5 gal in there and enough oil for a 24:1 ratio and even just sitting on the bench in the garage it would build pressure and leak. When uncapped it would release a gush or air too. So I don't know what the problem is as assembly went pretty good I thought and new gaskets and diaphragm were installed. I had diagrams and know everything is where it should be. I just don't see how it could leak gas out the top just sitting there, any ideas? Seems like some air/fumes would come out rather than gas since it was sitting still and untouched. I think it is leaking where it is common by the primer button but then comes out fast enough that if you walk away its hard to tell where exactly it is coming from so I'm going to have to literally watch it and maybe spray some soapy water on there to see. I'll probably have to disassemble and try again. Anyways, carb stuff will be here Saturday so hopefully I'll have time to tackle that and try it again.
 

F_R

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Do the soapy water thing. If it is coming out around the (metal) primer rod, revisit the metal support washers (must be flat at the center) and the end of the rod right above the threaded portion. It must be square (not corroded away/beveled). A dab of gasket sealer at that point won't hurt either. Also, make sure the knob spins freely on the rod. If it doesn't, you tend to rotate it when pressing on it, which unscrews the nut on the bottom.

Of course all this is moot if you have the plastic primer button.
 

oldboat1

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Check spark with an adjustable tester (1/4 to 3/8 inch, maybe more at each lead). Clean and regap plugs (likely .030). And....get compression numbers. Use a screw-in style tester; pull it over until the needle stops moving -- both plugs out for the test.
 

JBrit12

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Do the soapy water thing. If it is coming out around the (metal) primer rod, revisit the metal support washers (must be flat at the center) and the end of the rod right above the threaded portion. It must be square (not corroded away/beveled). A dab of gasket sealer at that point won't hurt either. Also, make sure the knob spins freely on the rod. If it doesn't, you tend to rotate it when pressing on it, which unscrews the nut on the bottom.

Of course all this is moot if you have the plastic primer button.


Thanks for the ideas. I have a feeling that is where it is at. I didn't use any sealer at all but I may just do so on the round metal discs that hold the primer rod and squeeze the diaphragm like you said and then maybe lube up the 8 screws that hold the entire handle assembly onto the tank.
 

JBrit12

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Check spark with an adjustable tester (1/4 to 3/8 inch, maybe more at each lead). Clean and regap plugs (likely .030). And....get compression numbers. Use a screw-in style tester; pull it over until the needle stops moving -- both plugs out for the test.


Pressure was tested by my buddy and both plugs have spark but were just not getting gas to them. The carb didn't necessarily look dirty in my opinion after being tore apart but then again I'm no carb expert so we'll see. The parts were supposed to arrive today and didn't so that means probably Tuesday which sort of ticks me off because I wanted to try again this weekend.
 
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