1956 Johnson FD-10... How does it work?

[bailor]

Hello all. I am very new to boats and boat motors. I work on cars, but this is totally foreign to me. Anyway I got this 1956 Johnson FD-10 L. The guy said it ran when he stored it last. But that was 8 years ago. I've searched around the web but can't find much info as far as the problems I'm having. My main concerns are 1. The throttle grip seems stuck. I can't turn it either way. Any ideas as to how to free it? 2. The handle seems to have a pivot point, but I can't get that to pivot. It was sitting outside for the 8 years and I'm hoping it's just a matter of getting all the dust and crap out. I got boating fever but don't have much of a budget. I'm hoping to get this motor going strong. Thanks.

 

[HighTrim]

There could be a few issues.

First, remove the tiller grip, clean out all the old grease, and rebuild. Could Then just follow the system along from there. Follow the gear shaft under the tiller arm, to where it meets the pinion gear for the throttle tower. Clean and regrease, ensure this moves. May also need to pull the magneto plate, and clean and regrease under there as well. Is the actual motor stuck?

 

[boobie]

If the motor turns over okay, check the compression on it.

 

[boobie]

If the compression is okay, change the gear case oil and the water pump.

 

[bailor]

Okay, lots of good info.. This is the first boat motor I've ever looked at, let alone tried to get running. I'm not sure what the magneto plate is, could you describe where it is? I tried removing the throttle grip, but the grease that was underneath had dried up and the thing was cemented on there. I ended up destroying the grip while getting it off. Also, I don't have a pull string yet so I don't know if the motor turns over, but going off the word of the man who sold it to me, it should. But I have a feeling I'll be taking the whole motor apart to rebuild. ugh. I guess my next step is to get a pull cord to see if it turns over. While I wait for that to get here I'll look at the lower assembly.

 

[hogg]

That was one of the Best OMC motors ever made. Have patience, search the net for a schematic so you know what to take off and how to do it.

 

[HighTrim]

The mag plate holds the coils, points, condensors, and is under the flywheel. You will need a flywheel puller to remove it, harmonic balancer puller.

Looks like you found the issue though.

Remove the recoil assembly, 3 slotted screws. Then try to turn the flywheel clockwise by hand.

 

[bailor]

That was one of the Best OMC motors ever made. Have patience, search the net for a schematic so you know what to take off and how to do it.

Thanks! I take pride in doing things the right way so I don't have to re-do it later. Having it on the water will be fun, but getting it ready will be enjoyable too.

 

[bailor]

After some reading online, I think the motor is stuck. I can't turn the flywheel either direction at all. It won't budge. So I'm assuming this will be a "baptism by fire" situation. I've never even looked at an outboard motor, this is the only one. But I'm going to attempt to take it apart and clean/regrease everything and see if I can get it to work. Thanks for the advice and help. I'm sure I'll be in this forum for a long time.

 

[oldcatamount]

Take the spark plugs out and squirt some penetrating oil in each cylinder. Let it set for a day or two and keep working the flywheel clockwise (gently). It may not be stuck to hard.

 

[boobie]

Better yet, use some ATF in the cylinders.

 

[tjandrews]

Keep at it! It'll be worth it, and then some.

I have one of these given to me that was stuck after being stored for several years. The rewind was stuck, the starter cord was nearly shredded, and the engine was stuck like yours. When I opened up the cowl I found the remains of a rodent's nest inside, wet and rotted. I cleaned it up fixed the rewind, replaced the cord, and worked the flywheel gently as others have described. Took a couple of hours, but once I go it around one turn it freed right up. Eventually, after doing all the long overdue maintenance, it ran. Now, five years later, it starts nearly every time on the first pull, and pushes my 14 ft. aluminum boat at around 20mph.

 

[bailor]

No Title

Keep at it! It'll be worth it, and then some.

I have one of these given to me that was stuck after being stored for several years. The rewind was stuck, the starter cord was nearly shredded, and the engine was stuck like yours. When I opened up the cowl I found the remains of a rodent's nest inside, wet and rotted. I cleaned it up fixed the rewind, replaced the cord, and worked the flywheel gently as others have described. Took a couple of hours, but once I go it around one turn it freed right up. Eventually, after doing all the long overdue maintenance, it ran. Now, five years later, it starts nearly every time on the first pull, and pushes my 14 ft. aluminum boat at around 20mph.

That's cool, I hope to have the same results. I took the spark plugs out and the tips were rusted. I removed the cover and saw this. As suggested, I squirted some ATF in there and I'll try turning it again tomorrow.

 

[racerone]

If flywheel turns ever so slightly it is the pistons stuck.----If flywheel does not budge at all it is likely the bearings rusted and will require tear down and inspection.

 

[bailor]

If flywheel turns ever so slightly it is the pistons stuck.----If flywheel does not budge at all it is likely the bearings rusted and will require tear down and inspection.

Thank you! This is good to know because it does turn very slightly, like maybe 1/2 mm. So because of that it's probably the pistons right? It makes sense, I just never thought of that before you mentioned it. No progress yet though as far as getting it to turn more. I sprayed some penetrating oil in there this morning and will try again this afternoon.

 

[1946Zephyr]

I'm inclined to believe that the motor is stuck from sitting, versus being dunked. Very common and typically will be a runner once freed up. That is, providing the rings aren't stuck in the grooves. Clean the cylinders, what you can see and keep soaking it. You can take a large wooden dowel and a hammer and tap on the piston crown and often that will break it free. Don't hit it too hard though. Tap on the top one, then the bottom one. Just go back and forth between the two.
Like Hogg says, you do have one of the best OMC models built. With patience and proper tuning, you should have a good runner. The ignition system will likely all need replacing: coils, points, condensers and likely plug wires. The water pump impeller and gear oil will definitely need replacing and the carb is likely needing a re-kit. I would try and run it first, before you go through the expense of the carb kit. I have had plenty motors become good runners, without even going into the carb. It all depends on what the last owner did, before he put it away.

 

[tjandrews]

No Title

I would try and run it first, before you go through the expense of the carb kit. I have had plenty motors become good runners, without even going into the carb. It all depends on what the last owner did, before he put it away.

I didn't have to get into the carb on mine - still haven't in the five years I've owned it. However, for reasons of convenience, I did convert it to a fuel pump system and in the process replaced all the fuel lines, thus avoiding some of the potential ethanol problems you see with the older lines.

 

[bailor]

8 days of soaking and today it finally moved! Thanks for all the insight. I hope to have it moving freely in a few days after working on it a little more, today it only moved about an inch or so.

 

[kodibass]

was this motors life in saltwater? If so you might be in for a tuff voyage....................

 

[bailor]

It was used mostly in fresh water, but yes it has seen a good amount of salt water.