1956 Evinrude Q's - pics

[pro-crastinator]

1956 Evinrude big twin 30 hp,

the saga continues. Present status ? Pulled boat to lake where it will keep the Cobia company. Magneto assembled, checked, rechecked, points cleaned with lacquer thinner, stuck in water can, attached fuel system, and eventually got her running a sweet idle song. I can say that the initial start up weeks ago sucked in comparison. It clearly was only pounding one cylinder at that time. Much smoother now. Thanks everybody for the hand holding.

Question 1 -pic 1 : Should a thermostat replacement be on my to-do list? Never noticed it before, look at pic showing discoloration of top cyl - presumably from an overheat event.

Question 2 - Problem: Fuel delivery on the 56 is from a pressurized tank that is sustained by pressure supplied from carb. When I pressurize my ?tank? ? I am unable to achieve positive pressure to force fuel thru the line. The problem is the carb pressure line, and its inability to hold pressure from the tank. This is before ignition is even attempted. I was pumping tank ? watching fuel bowl, waiting for the nice blue color of 16 to 1 pre mix to fill the bowl ? but that didn't happen until I pulled the carb line and plugged it on the tank side. Fuel flowed immediately. Happy camper mode achieved. I HAVE NOT rebuilt carb ? yet. Out of fear most likely, although my screen name may have something to-do with it.
Iam guessing that the advice will be to pull carb and rebuild it. In hindsight, I should have checked for positive pressure coming from the carb pressure line while motor was running. Oh well.

The rest of the story: My fuel tank is a perfect example of redneck perfection. It consists of a half gallon GLASS mason jar with a lid from the mityvac company that lets me duplicate the pressure tank system from the 50's using a MityVac hand pump that supplies the positive pressure . I am unable to use the tank I have because of the 5 lbs of rust and scale sitting in the bottom. Yes, I have an eye out for a new one. If worst comes to worst, I'll make one out of a old expired propane tank or a hydraulic reservoir tank or something. I just want it to be KLEAN cause we all know fuel probs are high on the list of tripwires.
SO, until I get a ?more durable? fuel tank, I don't think I'll be dipping the boat in the lakewater.
OR if I figure out a motor flush adapter hookup for the 1956. That would be sweet ? and it would be a great way to get the motor in gear to see what the higher rpm's looked and sounded like

Pic 2 - the bottom bolt that I did not loosen to complete the removal of lower end.

Pic 3 - The screw I took out and put back. Notice milky slime that will soon be replaced with fresh.
Is there a need to clean the muck out of there?

 

[Joe Reeves]

Re: 1956 Evinrude Q's - pics

Pressure tank........

Air pressure line from engine to tank keeps tank pressurized via a check valve within the tank, air is forced in BUT cannot reverse its flow. If the check valve is faulty or missing, the tank cannot be pressurized.

 

[pro-crastinator]

Re: 1956 Evinrude Q's - pics

got it. I had no check valve in the line from carb pressure line to tank.

 

[nwcove]

Re: 1956 Evinrude Q's - pics

If it were me, id just add a fuel pump and run a single line setup.

 

[jb93]

Re: 1956 Evinrude Q's - pics

You can get your tank soda blasted inside and out. Once done, pour in some Klean Phosphoric Etch. Slosh around to coat all surfaces, let sit overnight. Rinse with water. Pour in acetone and slosh around to displace water. Pour out. Immediately after your pour out pour in Kreem tank coating and twist tank around to coat all surfaces. It will mix with the residual acetone and thin it out so if flows better. Get a gasket rebuild kit for the tank and a couple of orings for the fittings and you will be in business. Note...about one cup of Kreem will coat the tank fine once mixed with residual acetone. You can buy it in 16oz bottle...which will do two tanks.

A friend of mine actually skips the soda blasting. He takes tank to pressure washer at coin operated wash and blast out best possible...then does steps I listed. The Klean Phosphoric Etch kills the rust then you Kreem over it. I just had some other parts soda blasted with my motor so doing the tanks didn't really cost me much extra.

Worth a shot. You too could have a tank that looks like this. Even better if you go with proper red tank paint and new stickers. I cheaped out on that part as I had some perfectly good gray and black Rustoleum to use up.

 

[kfa4303]

Re: 1956 Evinrude Q's - pics

It's worth changing the t-stat too. They only cost about $15 and drop right into place. Easy peasy.

 

[HighTrim]

Re: 1956 Evinrude Q's - pics

Ok first, do NOT remove that Phillips head screw. Hopefully the linkage inside did not move when you reinstalled it. Can be a bugger to get right. Always drain with the large slotted screw. That gearcase has water in it. Drain, replace with fresh and install new gaskets on the drain and vent screws.

Now, either get a good working pressure tank from aomci.org in the webvertize, OR use a single line and install a fuel pump. Either option is easy and fairly cheap.

That top cylinder has been toasted for some reason. I would ensure the water pump is new, water passages are clear. Pumping the button on the tank does not pressurize the tank. It simply pumps fuel to the carb bowl. The tank is pressurized by the motors operation, and a series of check valves in tank and intake manifold.

I am having trouble understanding what you did to get the fuel to pump from the tank? What did you remove/plug?

 

[HighTrim]

Re: 1956 Evinrude Q's - pics

Changing the t stat would be very difficult on a '56 30hp.

What is your model number ?

 

[pro-crastinator]

Re: 1956 Evinrude Q's - pics

My "bench" fuel system is a glass mason jar. I have a lid with two ports on it. one port has a tube that feeds fuel from the bottom of the jar. 2nd port is where I apply pressure to force the fuel thru the line to the carb. 5 psi is more than enough.
I would post a pic if I could.

I REALLY like the tank rebuild advice. I can see that plan coming together.
I wanted the boat and motor to be an "original" (as reasonably possible) example of late 50's.

 

[HighTrim]

Re: 1956 Evinrude Q's - pics

That will work (maybe) once the motor is running. I don't see that filling the fuel bowl though. You will have to add an inline bulb to fill the bowl, and the perhaps once primed the mason jar could take over.

Much less work and hassle to just buy a tank though. A local aomci member local to you should be able to help.

 

[pro-crastinator]

Re: 1956 Evinrude Q's - pics

Changing the t stat would be very difficult on a '56 30hp.

What is your model number ?

Cant find where I wrote it down - BUT as I recall, there were two "groups" in 1956 and mine was in the earlier group.

 

[racerone]

Re: 1956 Evinrude Q's - pics

The button on the tank pumps fuel to the motor.--It does not pressurize the tank.------Crankcase compression is then supplied to keep fuel moving to the motor once the motor is running.----Check valves for this air are inside the intake manifold.----The 56 model does not have a thermostat !

 

[HighTrim]

Re: 1956 Evinrude Q's - pics

The button on the tank pumps fuel to the motor.--It does not pressurize the tank.------Crankcase compression is then supplied to keep fuel moving to the motor once the motor is running.----Check valves for this air are inside the intake manifold.----The 56 model does not have a thermostat !

That is why I said it would be very difficult, as it is impossible, lol.

 

[nwcove]

Re: 1956 Evinrude Q's - pics

My "bench" fuel system is a glass mason jar. I have a lid with two ports on it. one port has a tube that feeds fuel from the bottom of the jar. 2nd port is where I apply pressure to force the fuel thru the line to the carb. 5 psi is more than enough.
I would post a pic if I could.

I REALLY like the tank rebuild advice. I can see that plan coming together.
I wanted the boat and motor to be an "original" (as reasonably possible) example of late 50's.

yikes....a glass mason jar full of fuel...under pressure!? yer brave! it would be so much safer to run/test the motor with a single line and primer bulb hooked directly to the carb letting gravity to take over after its primed. ( you can run your motor until the water in your barrel gets to warm to run it anymore using that method) jmo

 

[pro-crastinator]

Re: 1956 Evinrude Q's - pics


SO, If the 56 does not have a thermostat - the overheat event that discolored the top cyl was caused by .......
blockage?

Disregard and proceed ? A lot could have happened in the last 57 years. I will see what it looks like after everything ELSE is addressed and we can proceed to sea trial.

 

[milliesdad]

Re: 1956 Evinrude Q's - pics

"The rest of the story: My fuel tank is a perfect example of redneck perfection. It consists of a half gallon GLASS mason jar with a lid from the mityvac company that lets me duplicate the pressure tank system from the 50's using a MityVac hand pump that supplies the positive pressure . I am unable to use the tank I have because of the 5 lbs of rust and scale sitting in the bottom. Yes, I have an eye out for a new one. If worst comes to worst, I'll make one out of a old expired propane tank or a hydraulic reservoir tank or something. I just want it to be KLEAN cause we all know fuel probs are high on the list of tripwires.
SO, until I get a “more durable” fuel tank, I don't think I'll be dipping the boat in the lakewater.
OR if I figure out a motor flush adapter hookup for the 1956. That would be sweet – and it would be a great way to get the motor in gear to see what the higher rpm's looked and sounded like"


DO NOT RUN the motor in gear on muffs.

You run a better than even chance of having a runaway motor and having it grenade.

 

[racerone]

Re: 1956 Evinrude Q's - pics

The easy way to inspect piston and rings is to remove the bypass covers.

 

[oldboat1]

Re: 1956 Evinrude Q's - pics

can't quite figure out where you are in that saga. If you haven't dropped the lower unit yet -- take out the lower bolt connecting the shift shafts (pic 2, I think). Don't take out the phillips screw. If you have taken it out and replaced it, see if you can shift in and out of gear.

On the discoloration at the powerhead. Should run a compression check to get an indication of what you have. It looks like the head was removed (you?). If you haven't had it off, take a compression check first. Plugs look fresh (you?) There appears to be carbon around the plug holes (kind of looks wet on the pic), and that should be investigated. Possible plugs were stripped.

nice motor. electric start in '56 would have been 6 volt. Pressure tank can be cleaned and rebuilt -- recommend staying with the pressure tank if doing a restoration (I like them for use as well, but some prefer converting to fuel pump.)

BTW, weren't you missing the flywheel nut? will need to check earlier thread(s).

 

[HighTrim]

Re: 1956 Evinrude Q's - pics

If it were mine I would pull the head, inspect the water passages while doing the water pump at the same time, flushing and backflushing the cooling circuit to ensure it is clear, dress the head and install new head gasket. Just my 2 cents.

 

[pro-crastinator]

Re: 1956 Evinrude Q's - pics

BTW, weren't you missing the flywheel nut? will need to check earlier thread(s).[/QUOTE]

Good memory. FOund the nut. The one on the left is $20 on evinrude price list. On right - .60


No, I have not removed the head.
COmpression test - pull cord - 90psi on both. when I first got it.
It started and ran (rough) before I did a thing.
Plugs thread in nicely, looks good by me.