1955 Johnson RD-17S 25hp Restoration

[jbjennings]

Re: 1955 Johnson RD-17S 25hp Restoration

That's a great job you're doing and fine craftsmanship. The tank looks greyt. No biggie, just doesn't look good in relationship to the first rate work you did on it otherwise IMHO.
JBJ

 

[HighTrim]

Re: 1955 Johnson RD-17S 25hp Restoration

The hard part on the powerheads is getting them clean in all the nooks and crannies. Is the powerhead off the leg?

Looking good so far.

You have a more forgiving wife than me!

 

[jb93]

Re: 1955 Johnson RD-17S 25hp Restoration

The hard part on the powerheads is getting them clean in all the nooks and crannies. Is the powerhead off the leg?

Looking good so far.

You have a more forgiving wife than me!

Powerhead is off the leg. I removed the recoil, exhaust cover and air silencer and will paint those off the motor. As you noted...I am struggling with how to clean all the nooks and crannies to get good paint adherence. Appreciate any ideas.

The paint on powerhead is 70% good, but it just won't look right if I have a freshly parts installed on it. I guess I could paint the parts then sand them a little to dull the new paint and scratch them up a bit before I put them on the powerhead. I think they call that the "distressed look" in interior decorating world.:lol:

 

[jb93]

Re: 1955 Johnson RD-17S 25hp Restoration

That's a great job you're doing and fine craftsmanship. The tank looks greyt. No biggie, just doesn't look good in relationship to the first rate work you did on it otherwise IMHO.
JBJ

Thanks JBJ. I guess I could do two more coats in proper OMC color. Here is a Majic implement paint in Ford Red and a Rustoleum Safety Red. I can't seem to locate a picture of OMC Red from the 50s. Can you tell which is closer? Majic looks maroonish red and Rustoleum more orange red to me.

Majic Ford Red Rustoleum Safety Red

 

[jbjennings]

Re: 1955 Johnson RD-17S 25hp Restoration

I'm not sure, I'd probably go with the one on the right. There's cheap decals on the auction sites--probably $10 including shipping or less. Either way, my tanks wind up getting fuel on them and scratched up, but look good for a day.....

 

[Vintage Boat Guy]

Re: 1955 Johnson RD-17S 25hp Restoration

You could media blast your block and cover all the internal parts

 

[HighTrim]

Re: 1955 Johnson RD-17S 25hp Restoration

I soda blast my powerheads. Then wash in hot/soapy water to dissolve the soda. No worries with the soda. You can use something like walnuts, or glass, but be VERY careful you do not get any into the powerhead.







This powerhead got honed while it was apart and will receive a full rebuild.

 

[Willyclay]

Re: 1955 Johnson RD-17S 25hp Restoration

Chris, you are setting the bar pretty high for the rest of us! I did a hone/re-ring job on a RDSL-21 that was seized when I got it and it was a strong runner for many more years. Good luck!

 

[jb93]

Re: 1955 Johnson RD-17S 25hp Restoration

I got some parts painted over the weekend. Very happy with the way the Sherwin Williams alkyd enamel went down with Xylene thinner and hardener. I searched for a decal that goes on the carb plate, but didn't find anything online. I tried my hand at painting the numbers. I used the foam filter out of a cigarette. Not original idea...I saw it on a post online...I think another site. At any rate, it looks pretty good from 6 feet away and like a 6th grade art project close up. Here is the up close results - be nice it does look ok from 6 feet. I'm just not 100% pleased, but I did the best I could.

Any ideas? Should I clear coat it for protection? If so, with what? I was not going to clear anything else.

 

[F_R]

Re: 1955 Johnson RD-17S 25hp Restoration

I read all the way through this great thread, but didn't see the lower crankshaft seal mentioned. That "S" in the model number means it has the 303804 seal down there. That thing destroyed lots of those motors by letting water into the crankcase, even when almost new. OMC only used it a little while then went back to the carbon seal after warranty expenses were killing them. You have the powerhead off, so replace the seal whether it needs it or not.

 

[jb93]

Re: 1955 Johnson RD-17S 25hp Restoration

I read all the way through this great thread, but didn't see the lower crankshaft seal mentioned. That "S" in the model number means it has the 303804 seal down there. That thing destroyed lots of those motors by letting water into the crankcase, even when almost new. OMC only used it a little while then went back to the carbon seal after warranty expenses were killing them. You have the powerhead off, so replace the seal whether it needs it or not.

Can I do that seal without splitting the case? If so, how do I get it out?

 

[F_R]

Re: 1955 Johnson RD-17S 25hp Restoration

It really isn't hard to get out. You may have to butcher it up a bit. Some guys drill a couple of small holes in it and screw in sheet metal screws and use them to drag it out. Personally, I use a cape chisel to collapse it toward the center. A Dremel would be wonderful----if I had one. That's on my wish list.

 

[gm280]

Re: 1955 Johnson RD-17S 25hp Restoration

I got some parts painted over the weekend. Very happy with the way the Sherwin Williams alkyd enamel went down with Xylene thinner and hardener. I searched for a decal that goes on the carb plate, but didn't find anything online. I tried my hand at painting the numbers. I used the foam filter out of a cigarette. Not original idea...I saw it on a post online...I think another site. At any rate, it looks pretty good from 6 feet away and like a 6th grade art project close up. Here is the up close results - be nice it does look ok from 6 feet. I'm just not 100% pleased, but I did the best I could.

Any ideas? Should I clear coat it for protection? If so, with what? I was not going to clear anything else.

I know what you are talking about trying to re-lettering things like that. I did the same thing but used a Sharpies for that lettering. It worked great! Just an idea. I recently refurbished a '76 40HP Johnson O/B. I completely disassembled it and cleaned, sand blasted, washed and zinc chromate, primed and base coat, clear coated the entire engine. It came out amazingly well. Good luck on yours. I see similar parts between the two...

 

[jbjennings]

Re: 1955 Johnson RD-17S 25hp Restoration

I'd get some catalyzed clear from whatever store you bought the alkyd enamel from---something they said was compatible, and use it. It won't stay that glossy for long, I assure you. It will look like original in a couple of months, if that's what you're going for, and will be far easier to clean.
JMO,
JBJ

 

[HighTrim]

Re: 1955 Johnson RD-17S 25hp Restoration

I paint the whole thing the colour of the letters, and let harden. Then paint the background colour on top. Use a sanding block and wet/dry, and take off the top layer of paint off the letter, revealing the original colour, perfectly applied. Now polish and you are done.

 

[jb93]

Re: 1955 Johnson RD-17S 25hp Restoration

I paint the whole thing the colour of the letters, and let harden. Then paint the background colour on top. Use a sanding block and wet/dry, and take off the top layer of paint off the letter, revealing the original colour, perfectly applied. Now polish and you are done.

Wish I would have asked sooner. Nothing like a redo to reinforce things. Ugh.

 

[jb93]

Re: 1955 Johnson RD-17S 25hp Restoration

It really isn't hard to get out. You may have to butcher it up a bit. Some guys drill a couple of small holes in it and screw in sheet metal screws and use them to drag it out. Personally, I use a cape chisel to collapse it toward the center. A Dremel would be wonderful----if I had one. That's on my wish list.

Stupid question probably...but here goes. My seal "looks" to be in good condition in terms of the rubber sealing lips. Would you recommend going on looks or just butchering away at it? Here is a close up.

 

[jb93]

Re: 1955 Johnson RD-17S 25hp Restoration

Stupid question probably...but here goes. My seal "looks" to be in good condition in terms of the rubber sealing lips. Would you recommend going on looks or just butchering away at it? Here is a close up.

I pulled the seal. Used a nail punch to tap the collapse the casing of the seal inward a little (to break seal contact with housing), sprayed some Liquid Wrench on it, let it sit, laid powerhead on it's side with slight tilt downward (so shavings wouldn't fall into the bearing), drilled two 5/64 holes 180 degrees apart in seal casing, ran in a wood screw (coarse threads), put just a little heat around the seal housing using my propane torch, and finally used an angled block of wood as a backer and my claw hammer to pull it out - one good pull from each hole. Tadah!!

At any rate, you can see from the pic how deep the seal was installed - maybe a 1/16" below the housing. There was room for it to be installed a little deeper. Should I install new seal 1/8-3/16" below housing surface to get the seal riding on a different area of the driveshaft, put it back where it was or it don't really matter?

Oh..and should i put some 3M 847 around the seal casing before I install it or put it in dry? Thanks!

 

[oldboat1]

Re: 1955 Johnson RD-17S 25hp Restoration

cosmetic stuff: I use a sharpie too (gm280, above), both for markings as shown and for highlighting old lettering if not replacing decals. If replacing decals, try American Outboards and Salvage on the Eastern Shore in Maryland (check their website). They have water applied decals (maybe some plastic too, not sure). Very good stuff. Ask for Dora. (also a source for old, scarce parts -- acres of motors.)

 

[jb93]

Re: 1955 Johnson RD-17S 25hp Restoration

Got the new driveshaft seal installed. 1" socket made it easy.

In my service manual, I cannot find anything about gasket sealer for exhaust cover gaskets or the powerhead to mid-section gasket. I was planning to lightly coat in OMC Gasket Sealant. Good plan?