1955 evinrude 7.5 hp carb and starting

racerone

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Stop--Has this motor sat for 30 years ??-----I believe you can look through inspection hole in flywheel.-----Look for cracked coils.---Or just take the flywheel off ( 3 bolt puller ) time to inspect coils , clean and set points and install new condensers.
 

BlueBombNut

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Greets, getting into unfamiliar territory - i apologize if I use the incorrect terms :)

looking through the carburetor following fuel flow, into the motor I see 2 rectangular openings - shinny metal that appear... I'll say closed, by what appears to be a brass plate. Is that the reed plate? and, when turning over the motor shouldn't is see them flutter a bit ????
 

racerone

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Those are the reed valves.-----They do not move very much ( impossible to see _ when turning flywheel by hand.----Does spark jump a gap of 1/4" or more on a test device , yes , no or no idea why that test is important ?
 

BlueBombNut

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Stop--Has this motor sat for 30 years ??-----I believe you can look through inspection hole in flywheel.-----Look for cracked coils.---Or just take the flywheel off ( 3 bolt puller ) time to inspect coils , clean and set points and install new condensers.
Yes.... Yes it has - in my brothers basement - out of elements.... I have a feeling you're right - any suggestions\tips from a pro ( I have read a bunch of your posts - much appreciated)
 

BlueBombNut

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Light Bulb is getting brighter...
Just going to start out saying this is the first time I went past carburetors and impellers.

pulled the fly wheel to check the coils...... I think I could have saved a lot your time. I'm surprised that a spark could be generate....I did laugh out loud.
Next step is to get a tune up kit and replace everything.

Let me know if you want to see a pic of the coils....... Definitely the worst I have every seen on any ignition system.

I'll post an update - Thanks everyone
Much Appreciated !!
Do you have the book copy? Must be a big book -
Paperback
$243.71
 

racerone

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Love seeing pictures of those old ignition coils.----Have a bunch on hand here.-----Sometimes it is difficult to explain the difference between spark on a plug and maximum output of one these simple magnetos !!
 

Crosbyman

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$243 is simply stupid.....I paid about 35$ cdn few years back get the kindle version seeing they don't want to set up the printers to do reprints :-(

the red book is the bible you need and now DROPBOX wan't's money from everybody .
 

BlueBombNut

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$243 is simply stupid.....I paid about 35$ cdn few years back get the kindle version seeing they don't want to set up the printers to do reprints :-(

the red book is the bible you need and now DROPBOX wan't's money from everybody .
do you have an ISBN on the Red Bible? my searches come back with mostly the Seloc manuals.
 

Crosbyman

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my pdf copy does not show a ISBN# those # probably did not exist back in the 50-60s
edition 8 is probably sufficient mine is edition 10 best books you can have for oldies



 
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BlueBombNut

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my pdf copy does not show a ISBN# those # probably did not exist back in the 50-60s
edition 8 is probably sufficient mine is edition 10 best books you can have for oldies



Thanks - Just ordered the 10th edition - maybe I can restore and sell some as a hobby.
 

BlueBombNut

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Parts arrived and as a rookie I did not test the coils before I installed them... One of the coils was bad - ugh. Waiting for a new set to arrive...... Here's a pic of the original.
 

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racerone

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Typical failure , see it all the time.----Condensers are not original from 1955.
 

BlueBombNut

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Typical failure , see it all the time.----Condensers are not original from 1955.
You're saying, in that pick the condensers were replaced at some point (no pun intended). To me that makes no sense - I would just replace everything - just me.

Thanks for the info.
 

BlueBombNut

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Rolling the dice... I did not get a read a read out on the new coil from point wire to plug wire connector. Could that be from a poor quality multimeter? Used a Klien mm300 - any input would be helpful.
Thank you
 

tphoyt

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You're saying, in that pick the condensers were replaced at some point (no pun intended). To me that makes no sense - I would just replace everything - just me.

Thanks for the info.
In my eyes unless the original points were burned up they would be far better quality than what would get today and would be worth reusing.
Condensers are another story when they are done they are done.
 

Crosbyman

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Rolling the dice... I did not get a read a read out on the new coil from point wire to plug wire connector. Could that be from a poor quality multimeter? Used a Klien mm300 - any input would be helpful.
Thank you
short the probes ... digital meter should show 0 ohms.... none... if meter is analog needle swings right side to 0 ohms or close and adjust with thumb wheel to 0

put one probe in the plug boot one on the engine frame ... you must read 4-8 Kohms approx if boot to coil connection is good. if not find out why

old plug wires do beak in the bend under the FW
 

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racerone

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Those condensers were not original to 1955 !!----The reason is anyone's guess.-----Likely the motor was tuned in the 1960's and coils were still good then.
 

BlueBombNut

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short the probes ... digital meter should show 0 ohms.... none... if meter is analog needle swings right side to 0 ohms or close and adjust with thumb wheel to 0

put one probe in the plug boot one on the engine frame ... you must read 4-8 Kohms approx if boot to coil connection is good. if not find out why

old plug wires do beak in the bend under the FW
Thanks for the reply. I had the coil out and sitting on the workbench, meter was set on Ohms, 1 probe connected to either coil wire. 2 probe touching the plug wire connector of the coil itself. Keeps sitting at OL ??? I have it put together again and will test for spark.
 
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