19'.6" Reinell restoration

[zoowelder]

Seeking help of a couple issues I have in regards to setting stingers and keel supports on my 19' 6" 72' Reinell. The first issue that I need to address is twist. I have the boat on a trailer and I have also built a couple cradles to support the bottom of the boat. before I do any glassing or setting stringers in PB, I want to make sure that I am square, twist free, and flat as possible. What is the best way to check this?

Second item I need help or advise with is supports along the keel section of the boat. What I had was 3/4" x 6" x 8' pieces of plywood along the mid section of the bottom of the boat and also on the outsides of the stringers. These were not attached to the bottom of the boat, just glassed over. I am guessing that they was installed primarily for trailer support. My question is should i set these in PB or just glass them in as they was? Here are a few pictures of what I am referring to:



Here is a view of the port side. One of these was portioned just on the outside of the stringer and was 6" x 8' long.




On both sides of the keel section was two more of these strips of wood that ran all the way to the transom and supported the bilge area. Due to the wood being rotted it created a void under the bilge area with no support.

 

[zoowelder]

Re: 19'.6" Reinell restoration

Nothing but rain here in Ohio, been tough to do anything on the boat. After pondering a few issues with the keel area I stumbled upon an issue that I didn't like, nor was I comfortable leaving alone.



As you can see below where the deck was it is wet. I took core samples and the transom is solid. What I didn't like was the fact that at some point when the transom was put in, none of the glass adhered to the treated plywood. My original plan was to sand, PB the gaps, and re-glass. Problem with that is that seems the glass didn't stick to the ply, the transom has a big bow in it. Not sure if it is supposed to have, but this motor had no motor mounts and from what i have researched, they didn't seem to have them either.



Here is my AQ130c out if the boat. I am hoping the rain hold off enough tomorrow so that I can get the lower unit off and the old transom out. the transom will fall out I am sure of that. Plan is to have new transom installed Saturday. The way my luck has been that Saturday may be a couple away...lol.

 

[jbcurt00]

Re: 19'.6" Reinell restoration

This transom is solid:

Good to hear you plan to replace it. It certainly looks like it needs it, badly.

There were no forward motor mounts? The motor is 'just' hung on the inside of the transom from the outdrive transom mount?

 

[zoowelder]

Re: 19'.6" Reinell restoration

Believe it or not, it is solid just wet from being outside....No forward motor mounts at all, just hangs from transom.

 

[zoowelder]

Re: 19'.6" Reinell restoration

Lower unit removed and transom is out. The transom did not stick to the hull of the boat at all (looks as though they used just resin to stick the transom to the hull.....no glass at all), needless to say it failed badly. I had to cut the transom in half as I could not get it out in one piece. When the transom was replaced they did it in place using one layer of 3/4" ply and then two layers of 3/8". Each layer was installed in two pieces. This is not an option for me as I am planing on a two piece transom consisting of 3/4" plywood. Along the starboard and port sides are shelves that help support the boat sides and they run all the way to the transom. I cut about 6" of this away from the transom and still didn't have enough room to remove the transom in one piece. I am debating on removing them and re-glassing once the transom is installed, not 100% sure what to do at this point.

 

[zoowelder]

Re: 19'.6" Reinell restoration

Did not get as much done as I had hoped to today due to the weather. I did manage to get the new pieces cut for the transom. As stated above the transom I took out was made in multiple pieces. The thickness of the one removed was 1 3/4" and the new one is a total of 2 1/8" without fiberglass and resin. I used three pieces of 25/32" exterior plywood as two pieces was shy of 1 3/4" and it seemed pointless to add a sheet of 3/8" to get close to 1 3/4". As long as I didn't over look something, I don't see this as a problem and i preferred thicker as this motor has no support other than the transom.

Not sure what I can get done tomorrow as I really need to mow and tend to the garden if it isn't raining. I would like to get the transom fitted and at least glassed together.

 

[zoowelder]

Re: 19'.6" Reinell restoration

Not much completed on boat yesterday as I had other things that needed done. I did manage to get transom fitted to the hull. I had an issue with getting the old transom out in one piece and I didn't want to pull the cap off of boat to install new one. What I ended up doing was cutting the storage compartment on the sides out about 1/3 of the way. This will give me plenty of room to install the transom in one piece.

I am arguing with myself again (good thing is I always win) as to what method I want to use to put the transom layers together. My original plan was to glass the transom together using 1.5 CSM. I am seriously thinking that I am going to use Titebond III and glue the transom together. After I have it glued and screwed using SS screws I will then put a layer of 1.5 CSM on the transom and wrap the edges for a little extra strength. As far as mounting it to the hull I plan use two layers of 1.5 CSM and glass it fast. I will have tree helpers to help with this as we will have to work fast in order to get it secured to the hull. In order to make sure the hull stays flat I am going to use a combination of screws and fender washers along with some supports. The supports that I am going to make are out of 1" x 4" planks (these actually measure 1" thick) and create a "T". Along with the screws and fender washers, I will screw the "T"'s in four different locations across the hull to maintain a flat tight bond between the hull and transom.

I was going through all my supplies and getting things in order for the transom install and started reading the label about the CAB-O-SIL that I purchased. On the label it says for epoxy only :facepalm: just my luck. What is the best product to use to thicken poly resin or will this work?

 

[Woodonglass]

Re: 19'.6" Reinell restoration

Cabosil works for both. You might want to take a look at the first link in my signature below. It has some good info on installing a transom. TB-III is the way to go on Gluing the Ply. No need to use stainless screws. Deck Screws will work just fine. I'd recommend removing them and drilling 1/2" holes in the transom to allow the PB to ooze thru and create a mechanical bond. I don't think there's a need for the CSM. The structural PB will provide more than enough strength, along with the full layers of 1708.

 

[zoowelder]

Re: 19'.6" Reinell restoration

Thanks wood....I have viewed that link on several occasions and found it very informative. As far as the mechanical bond aspect between the hull and the transom, I was planing on cutting grooves in the transom 1/8" to 1/4" deep using the same principle that you would use as a backer for ceramic tile. Seems how the cabosil will work with poly I may go with the PB method to secure the transom to hull as this would be an easier and quicker method to secure the transom to the hull.

 

[Woodonglass]

Re: 19'.6" Reinell restoration

Yep, Grooves would work too, but I like the holes cuz with the ooze out it's kinda like having 1/2" fiberglass bolts holding the wood to the transom skin. Either method will give you good adherance to the skin. If you get good compression on the clamps it will be fine. Truth of the matter is the most strength comes for the CSM and 1708 laminations to the sides and bottom of the hull on the inside.

 

[zoowelder]

Re: 19'.6" Reinell restoration

Haven't been able to do much this week as I work 2nd shift. I did manage to get the transom fitted and started to glue it together with titebond III. After gluing one side together and screwing it fast, I watched it dry and drank a beer. I decided to read the label and **** my pants (sort of speak, I think it will be ok). The bottle says that it is not made for structural or load bearing applications. For most, this may not be an issue. I am not 100% sure how my motor setup should be, but I have no motor mounts. My motor hangs freely off of the transom. Needless to say when I attached the 3rd layer I decided that I was going to use 1.5 csm and and leave some 1 3/4" stainless steel screws in the transom. I went every 8" on the edges and every 10" throughout on both sides. I stayed away from the key hole area as I have no desire to fight cutting stainless screws when it is time to cut the key hole. I have one side of the transom wrapped in glass and along all edges. I was very happy with the out come other than maybe the top edge as I only put a 1/4" radius on it and it looks as thought I may have a bubble or two, but it should be ok.

I hope to install transom Saturday as it isn't going to rain. We have already doubled our average for the month and tripled last months average rain fall. Tonight's storm took out my garden and a few tress at my neighbors. No sweet corn this year.

In preparing for the transom install, about how many quarts of PB would it take to secure it to the hull? I used 2 quarts to glass one layer of csm if that helps any. Is it recommended to coat both transom and hull with PB or just a good layer on one or the other?