1802 teleflex replacement

[JHartmann]

I am curious, has anyone here replaced a telefex steering cable on an 1802?
Mine was steering stiffly, so I ordered a cable and was in the process of changing it, when I hit a snag...literally.

I had tied a wire to the cable so that I could use it to pull through the new cable, and it pulled through about half way and stopped. (I was able to get it out of the turn tube without removing the motor.)

It seems that Bayliner/Trophy used rubber lined "Adel" clamps to hang the steering and control cables within the hull. There is probably enough room to work them through when assembleing the boat at the factory, but the nut on the cable will not pass through one of the clamps. I can just barely see it with a bright light and a mirror...no way to reach it.

Before I just hack saw the old cable, I thought I would check the forum for some wisdom. (I may still have to leave some old cable in the hull as it won't pull back out either...stuck)

 

[Ghost Chaser]

Re: 1802 teleflex replacement

I sawzalled my old cable. super ez to get out this way. Remove battery on sb side and look for white abs/vinyl tubing. Use fishtape or abs hydraulic hose to fish through up to mid section. On my 2002 I removed the washdown plate so i could get a visual and locate new hose, then fished it through up to the console. Go hydraulic and spend the extra money now or you will find yourself buying another steering cable before long. The feel of hydraulic vs. mechanical steering is like night and day.

good luck. A bit late but let us know how you tackled your project.

thanks

 

[JHartmann]

Re: 1802 teleflex replacement

Thanks for the reply,
(my wayyyy late reply is for others who may do this task)

I did use an abrasive disc (ziz wheel..) to cut my cable in 2 and pulled it from both ends. It was run through 3 rings and the 1 inch nut would not clear them (along with the other wiring).
When I put the new one in, I could only get it through the first guide, then I just let it lay on top of the other 2. It is stiff enough that it works fine that way. I did tie a piece of wire onto one end so that I could use it to pull the new cable through.

At the motor end, I had to roto-tool the hole in the transom about 1/2 inch for alignment and clearance. Then support the outboard on a jack so the motor mounts can be loosened enough to slightly rotate it, to line up the cable and tilt tube.

Not a bad job, once you know how, small loss of blood from fibreglass splinters. Steers with one finger now.