18’ Bluefin Plywood Floor Questions

[imported_Cpt_Quint]

The transom has been repaired and struts were added to attach the stringers to the transom (they just ended in mid air).

Now I need to replace the floor. Think 5 years guys not 25. How thick would you go? What type of plywood would you use? What would you coat it with? Would you cover it for look and feel or leave it open to breath.

There will be some water under the deck most of the time. The boat is keep outside on her trailer with a storage cover ;-( and I live in the northwest i.e. lots of rain. The boat is not worth a lifetime type floor project. The aluminum hull has a lot of corrosion but still has some good years left***I hope**

The span is 21 inches between supports and is 63 inches at the widest point. The plywood will be anchored with SS screws.

Your Thoughts
Option #1
Best

Option #2
Good

Option #3
Don’t do this….no matter what!

My thoughts
5/8 Exterior plywood
Thinned industrial enamel 1st coat for primer then a second coat
Third coat for the top only tinted gray with anti slip added.

Cost
3 sheets ply $75
1 gal paint $21
anti slip $not much
Total about $100

 

[tashasdaddy]

Re: 18’ Bluefin Plywood Floor Questions

what i did with mine, (hull not worth a lifetime floor), ran 1x4 side to side attaching to the boat frame 16" on center, 1/2" exterior ply, coated all sides with exterior oil base paint. screwed floor to 1x4's. then 2 coated with American Tradition light gray non skid latex paint. so far it is wearing very well. then reinstalled the 3/4 " aluminum angle around the edges, between the hull and floor. you can see it here, keeps the hooks, sinkers, and expensive lures out of the bilge.
http://i46.photobucket.com/albums/f119/tashasdaddy/MVC-853S.jpg

 

[ManOfwar690]

Re: 18’ Bluefin Plywood Floor Questions

that can be done bu i would sugest that u use an resin under it to keep moister out and mold too and i would spend a 150 on tleast 2 layers of glass matting to protect the topside... the boat is aluminum so you can weld any leekers and make the boat last or out last yourself

 

[bassboy1]

Re: 18’ Bluefin Plywood Floor Questions

I think you are set. 5/8s ply would be fine. Just cut it to fit and then paint all sides. Especially the edges. On my Lund, which is one of the lifetime hulls (If you ever find any Lunds with bad interiors, send them my way) we installed the deck out of 3/4 marine ply, which is about 80 bucks a sheet. What we didn't do was paint the bottom or sides. But, we also completely foamed under the deck, and sealed off the edges, so water can only get into the bildge section astern in which the deck is cut away. Hopefully it will last us another ten years.

 

[Chris1956]

Re: 18’ Bluefin Plywood Floor Questions

Quint, I second the recommendation of Manofwar. Coat all sides of dry 1/2 pressure treated CDX plywood with polyester resin, and lay a couple of layers of cloth on the top of the deck to protect the plywood. Does that boat have any foam floatation? I think it is required to not sink if it gets swamped. You might like to add some. Also, be carefull screwing the plywood down. Those screws can esily penetrate the hull.

 

[iwombat]

Re: 18’ Bluefin Plywood Floor Questions

Quint, check your lumber prices carefully too. I went in a couple of weeks ago fully intent on getting 1/2" only to find out that th 5/8" was about $7 cheaper per sheet - who knew?

Maybe I'll see you around Pt. Defiance in a few weeks.

 

[woody20]

Re: 18’ Bluefin Plywood Floor Questions

cpt,

I used 1/2" CDX from home cheapo, and put west marine expoxy on both sides. Then I cut the pieces to fit the long way left to right in the hull, the wood will set on the lip in the hull the edges. There should have been a few 2" wide metal strips between the floor pieces before, hope you saved them. Start from the transom and to the bow, cut first piece and then cut out well opening place down and draw a line where the support member is and place ss screws into is, I also drilled 3/16" holes and counter sunk each hole a little bit and put in rivites like it was before in my boat. After you almost get to the end of the first piece place the 2" wide metal strip under the floor and now add the second sheet for the floor. Do the same then along the edges of floor with the two pieces meet, the 2" wide metal strip will make the floor feel like one whole floor. Do this until you get to the bow. Then go get some outdoor carpet glue or putty, and spread out and put some out door natalex vinily down. I got mine from www.defender.com for $14 a running yard. @ 72" wide cheapest around. It says to use a roller to get the air out, I guess you could use the 3m spray on floor stuff but didn't try it. As its for car, which don't get a lot of water. Don't for get to cut a hole in the floor for the steering cable and electronics you use. I would put the fish finder on the transom first before the floor and seal with 3m 4300 to be able to remove or 5300 if you never want to remove it. Also get your self new pumps, (NEVER) trust used pumps.

 

[tomynoks]

Re: 18’ Bluefin Plywood Floor Questions

Check out the AraucoPly 23/32" (almost 3/4") ACX @ Home Depot.

$24.00 a sheet, no knots or plugs on one side and very few voids if any.

 

[imported_Cpt_Quint]

Re: 18’ Bluefin Plywood Floor Questions

Thanks for the sugestions guys...
Here we go -
Reinstall all the closed cell foam - left outside and frozen right now...
5/8 CDX painted, after cutting on all sides and edges -
Solid sheet of Nautalex marine vinal (shark color) covering the entire deck -
Marine carpet for the sides -

I will take pictures along the way.

Thanks again

 

[imported_Cpt_Quint]

Re: 18’ Bluefin Plywood Floor Questions

Update

 

[imported_Cpt_Quint]

Re: 18’ Bluefin Plywood Floor Questions

The foam boards are back in. Not purfect but thats the way Bluefin did it back in 1983. I am adding about 6 or 8 cans of spray foam just to fill in some of the holes and lock the hole thing together. After I get all the plywood cut it will get a nice coat of enamel primer on all sides.