16' Imperial Tri-Hull Restoration

BigMackAttack

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Feb 25, 2016
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I recently had a friend offer me a FREE 16' Imperial tri-hull with an old 70 horse Evinrude. I'm Scotch-Irish, so I don't pass up ANYTHING with an offer like that. The boat hasn't run in four years, floor is pretty rotted and I've got a ton of holes to patch, obvious deck replacement, and a laundry list of clean-up/ miscellaneous repairs to boot. We just got twelve inches of snow over the last two days as well, so we will see when I get it from his grandparents yard to my house.Going to be a fun project. Planning on setting it up for split fishing/ small family outings. Should turn out as a nice little run about for all the lakes we have in the area. Hoping that the stringers are in good shape, but we shall see. I will upload and update as I go along. All suggestions are welcome. I don't have a firm plan of the finish product yet.












 

jbcurt00

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Deck replacement is the easy part of the work that lies ahead.

Read thru some other resto topics, lots of great info can be found already posted
 

jbcurt00

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BigMack you started a topic titled Restoration and another titled 70 Evinrude triple carbs.

In error? As neither has any meaningful info or content, they dont seem to have a purpose

The Evinrude topic is under the electrics forum, the wrong forum entirely. It can be moved, but do you need it for anything yet?
 

BigMackAttack

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Not sure what happened with the other two topics being started? Don't know if I did something wrong of if it was just an error. I have read pretty extensively the last few weeks through multiple tri hull restorations (My wife keeps giving me the evil eye through my 2-3 hour evening reads after the girls have been put to bed). The biggest thing I am running into is whether to epoxy or glass and resin the new deck. I plan on just using a good exterior grade plywood for the new flooring (it seems a universal thought on here that marine grade is a waste of money and treated ply tends to be "wet" and not allow proper adherence of a top coat), but I am torn between fully wrapping the ply in resin and chopped strand or simply just coating the underside of the ply with several coats of something like Thompson's Watershield to make sure that any water that comes into contact with the bottom just drips off and drains and then top coating the ply with epoxy. I have read a lot of threads using both ways with the topcoat (epoxy or resin/chopped strand) but haven't seen any good posts on the pros/cons between the two. The transom feels solid as all get out, but I plan on doing some good core samples on that and the stringers as soon as I get the old floor off. From what i see of the original ply, it looks almost like they just put OSB down and laid carpet on top. I am hoping to find good things underneath, but ready to deal with the worst. The boat was never kept in the water for extended periods to my knowledge and was always kept plug open with heavy tilt on the trailer when out of the water. There are two holes in the hull (Ill add those pictures) from when the floor gave out and the lags from the drivers seat went through. Other than that the exterior visible structure looks really good. The two holes are between 1/4" and 3/8" wide. From everything I've read, I think it will be fine with just chamfering out interior and exterior, cleaning the area, and filling with Marine Tex. Hoping to get the holes fixed and a new floor on (plus any structural fixes with the stringers and transom if necessary) this season and then just put a little $ into it each off season. Going to try a two stage sanding (320 grit, then 1000 grit) to clear the heavy oxidization of the original gel coat. The boat was waxed shortly before it was set up so we shall see... The motor is an absolute gem! Cleanest motor of that age I have seen in a while. Had the cover off but did not get any additional photos. Some cobwebs and a few hornets/hornet nests, but the lines (electrical and gas) are still in great condition with no weather cracking. My buddy ran it dry before it was laid up and heavily fogged the cylinders. A lot of patch work that needs to be done throughout the boat as well as evidenced by the original photos. Obviously, my first steps once i get the boat here are going to be gutting and repairing the holes in the bottom. That is going to be interesting this time of year in Michigan. I have a 14' deep by 16' wide garage with a wood stove that I put in a few years ago so I am planning on backing it in to a workable depth and then tarping off the front area. Between the wood stove and a temp controlled ceramic heater, I am hoping to do the hull patch fairly quickly. I can keep the garage at about 80 degrees with the wood stove cranking. I wish there were more threads with my particular boat type and more photos, but I am not complaining by any means. This site is a treasure trove of information. May be a couple weeks depending on weather until I get the boat here and get started, but I will post details and photos once I start. As stated before I am open to all help and suggestions. They don't have to be constructive either :) I've got thick skin and I'm a newbie to boat restoration. I've got a decent amount of framing, electrical, and fiberglass/epoxy experience so it should be a lot of fun (knock on wood). I found this thread the other day for a sweet fishing deck for a tri hull and am thinking about doing it in a modified manner that would allow it to be pulled in and out to kind of morph the boat between fishing boat and family run around. Thoughts?

http://forums.ozarkanglers.com/topi...n-project-for-older-tri-hull-fiberglass-boat/

Thanks in advance for any thoughts/advice you guys have to offer.


 

BigMackAttack

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Feb 25, 2016
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Just looked at my last post and saw that all of my paragraph breaks disappeared and I have a giant cluster paragraph. Will make sure to preview before posting in the future.
 

ondarvr

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I think you need to do a great deal more reading, don't limit yourself to tri hulls, water and rot don't know the difference between boat hull designs, and repairing a hull is the same for any of them.

This will be far more work than you envision right now, look at the complete gut and rebuild threads, there's about a 99% chance that's the route you'll be going.
 

fhhuber

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Might be a hull disposal and then use the engine on a good sized aluminum hull....
 

jak1

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wow a project like that almost seems impossible.looks pretty trashed
 

Woodonglass

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As you say, once the deck is off and the stringers are revealed and the transom is core sampled you'll know a LOT more about what you're facing. If she requires a Full and total restoration, you're looking at a budget of a minimum of $2,000 dollars and 100 -200 man hours of work. Just so you'll know what to expect.
 

BigMackAttack

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Feb 25, 2016
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Woodonglass:

That was my thought process on it. I'm not going to know much until the decking is up, but I've done a lot of pricing out for supplies for multiple routes and my full restore pricing is between 3-3.5. Whatever I find and eventually do, I am hoping I can stagger it and get the boat usable for this season and then just drop a little more in each off season. I have really appreciated reading a lot of your posts and insight. Definitely looking at using your sealing "old timers method" that you've detailed.

Fhhuber:

Could potentially be a hull ditch and replacement just keeping the motor depending on what I find. Not an aluminum fan so I doubt I will go that route.

Ondarvr:

I should not have put that I've just looked at tri hull restorations. I have actually really only been trying to read ground up restorations on multiple boat types so that I get a full look at all possible work avenues (with the occasional side jaunt into detailed threads inserted by some of you seasoned veterans). I only mentioned the tri hulls as that is specifically what i am going to be trying to repair. I am fully understanding that the hull COULD be trashed or require an extensive man hour and money heavy load, but I had thought I put in my original post that those were my BEST CASE thoughts. I tend to be a hope for the best and plan for the worst individual, but I'd rather keep a chipper attitude and at least hold out hope that it may not be a miserable scrap heap ;-)



This will be my first owned boat so I am just looking to have an entry level usable run-about, not a queen of the lake. Just want to get it to where I'm not worried about sinking every time it slides off the trailer and then work up from there. May be a keeper and I can use the staggered cost method described above, or it may just be that I tack down some decent ply with a decent seal job and only use the boat for a season or two before I junk the hull. A lot of it just depends on what is underneath that midden heap off a floor. The title for the thread is just in case the best case scenario works out and I one day have an awesome boat out of it that I would be happy to allow another newbie use for a starting point.
 

jbcurt00

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Its not likely you'll find much use for WOGs old time stuff on a glass boat rebuild. Seat bottoms and backs if you salvage the vinyl or make your own seats. Maybe few backers for vinyl interior bolsters or trim panels.

But definitely no where on the transom, stringer and deck work.

Seems you're still leaning a bit forward on the
Hope for the best,
Plan for the worst​
scale.

Sealed new plywood laid over anything currently in/on that boat (except a 100% gutted hull) is a recipe for unpleasant boating.

No way to know when you'll barely make it back to the dock, or IF you'll make it back to the dock.

Coverups and deck overs conceal and mask waterlogged and rotten structure and foam so to make it nearly impossible to know how much worse its gotten since it was covered up.
 
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