So I've come across a problem I can't quite figure out. Here recently this FW-FB 46lb trolling motor has killed 3 foot switches. By that I'm referring to the one under the grey button pressed by your foot. The first switch died and the trolling motor was just stuck on. So I pulled a switch I had from a spare unit and it worked fine until I set the trolling motor up on 5 and then a smoke show and it melted the wires at the pigtail to plug into the boat.
That second switch had come off an older lower thrust 3 speed motor so I figured maybe it just wasnt meant to handle the higher settings.
I Went and bought a brand new switch and fixed the pigtail. Everything was working fine for about an HR kicked it up to 5 and worked good for Abit. Then kicked It back down to 3. Still working fine. Then just setting still for a bit I went to hit the switch and nothing. No smoke or anything at first so I assumed the battery may have a weak connection. Checked that and it was fine. Turned the trolling motor on by the continuous switch to bypass the foot switch and to came on , this time a small bit of smoke came out and I pulled the plug. At first the trolling motor was completely dead. Let it cool and I again used the continuous switch and it was working. Left it on 2 and trolled the rest of the day using the continuous switch.
So before I try another switch what do you guys think is killing them? I did inspect the foot wiring and while some of the ends where alittle rusty nothing was melted or corroded. Cleaned them up. Took apart an old switch and sure enough the contactor was melted right in two. The wiring in the boat looks fine. All I can figure is too many amps drawn melts the switch? I am running a larger deep cycle, but I've not had a problem out of it in the past. Allows me more time and times between charge.
One thing I do wonder is if said battery was low enough and I hiked the speed up could that higher draw on the low battery cause amps high enough to kill the switch? I know it's a long post , but I'm honestly not fantastic with wiring and electrical so any input would be greatly appreciated.
That second switch had come off an older lower thrust 3 speed motor so I figured maybe it just wasnt meant to handle the higher settings.
I Went and bought a brand new switch and fixed the pigtail. Everything was working fine for about an HR kicked it up to 5 and worked good for Abit. Then kicked It back down to 3. Still working fine. Then just setting still for a bit I went to hit the switch and nothing. No smoke or anything at first so I assumed the battery may have a weak connection. Checked that and it was fine. Turned the trolling motor on by the continuous switch to bypass the foot switch and to came on , this time a small bit of smoke came out and I pulled the plug. At first the trolling motor was completely dead. Let it cool and I again used the continuous switch and it was working. Left it on 2 and trolled the rest of the day using the continuous switch.
So before I try another switch what do you guys think is killing them? I did inspect the foot wiring and while some of the ends where alittle rusty nothing was melted or corroded. Cleaned them up. Took apart an old switch and sure enough the contactor was melted right in two. The wiring in the boat looks fine. All I can figure is too many amps drawn melts the switch? I am running a larger deep cycle, but I've not had a problem out of it in the past. Allows me more time and times between charge.
One thing I do wonder is if said battery was low enough and I hiked the speed up could that higher draw on the low battery cause amps high enough to kill the switch? I know it's a long post , but I'm honestly not fantastic with wiring and electrical so any input would be greatly appreciated.
