12 volt fuse box.

LippCJ7

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Re: 12 volt fuse box.

I agree but also disagree NYBo, the reason is that the fuse should protect the load from any further damage should a short occur in the load, obviously this would not apply in a light bulb since when it does blow what else can you damage, but if you take this several levels of loads higher, say in a two way radio worth $5000 and the power amplifier goes out it will blow the 30 amp main fuse, but since once the power enters the radio it then powers several different circuits within the radio, problem is if the main fuse didn't blow the other circuits would still be at risk. The same can be said about modern stereo's they are basically modules, CD player, Amplifier, Receiver etc. but there are not power leads for each individual module only a main power lead and an ignition sense which carry's no load at all, the same is true with high end Two Way radio's you have a transmitter, reciever, power amplifier VCO etc etc so in order to troubleshoot the main fuse being bad you unplug the radio and test the power cable for a short circuit via DVM, if the power cable tests good then the radio gets pulled, the radio is tested on the bench for the bad module which can be replaced.

Mixing loads on fuses only compounds the issue since now you have to test which load on the fuse shorted, if you were to say that you would use a 30 amp fuse to power your stereo and your depth finder but each of these loads would be fused properly after the 30 amp fuse I would have little issue with it other then its two more connections per load to corrode, then you apply power again to troubleshoot and the shorted load gets hit again which can cause further damage the shorted load.

I agree that the initial idea that a fuse is to protect the wiring, but that is no longer the only reason to fuse loads. In my experience if the load was installed properly it is unlikely that the wiring will ever cause a short anyway but you know the problem with this theory....."IF"!

If thats the way you want to do it I won't tell you its wrong I just wouldn't do it, I have seen it done a million times and corrected it nearly as many times as I have seen it, the main reason being is that if you take a police Car for example we have roughly 20-30 new electrical circuits to install into a Ford Crown Victoria, now if I have 2 or 3 that share fuses I had better know what fuse controls those 2 or 3 circuits, otherwise it looks like a pretty serious problem. I like how Silvertip says that there are two different electrical systems in a boat, I never thought of it that way but he is very correct, We do the same in Police Cars, you have the vehicle electrical system and then the emergency electrical system the only common factor in the two is the battery. The bottom line is that a fuse protects everything upstream of the fuse no matter if its the wiring or the load itself
 

NYBo

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Re: 12 volt fuse box.

Oh, I'm not advocating multiple devices on the same fused circuit in a boat (except the main fuse circuit that feeds the fuse block itself). I was just making the point about the reason for the fuses in the fuse block. Any short inside a device means that the device has, well, a short in it. No fuse is going to protect it, but a fuse should prevent it from catching fire. Likewise for the fuses in the fuse block. A short between the the device and the fuse block isn't likely to do anything to the device, but it may cause a fire if the fuse is too large for the wire gauge. That's why the fuse block fuses are sized for the wire, not the device draw. (Of course, both the wire and the fuse need to be adequate for the device!)

Not sure if that made any sense. :redface:
 

LippCJ7

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Re: 12 volt fuse box.

So what your saying is were saying the same thing in english and neither of us understand each other? Don't worry about it I'm sure its on my end since my wife tells me the same thing:D
 

wolfscott

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Re: 12 volt fuse box.

Guys, not to be picky or anything, and I appreciate the help, but you guys have a tendency to overkill the subject. I need the help, and I have it figured out how I am going to do it, and I did gain some insight to your discussion. But, I am talking about a simple little 18' tri-hull, with 5 guages, I looked again this weekend. It is not a big old ocean going vessel, and the wiring is pretty simple. Just wanted to know about adding some extras. I understand the concept of two separate systems now. That was something that had escaped me, and really helps alot. So, don't take my statements as any more than me trying to fuddle through the murk for a clean glass of water. And I certainly am not trying to offend anyone, especially since I am the one here looking for help. So, once again thank you for your insight.
 

wolfscott

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Re: 12 volt fuse box.

There is one other thing. While I was working yesterday on this wiring, something near the engine caught my eye. This tangled mess of wires from the previous owner had alot of electrical tape around one specific spot. I began to unwrap the tape to see what it was, and lo and behold I was amazed. This fool, and even I know better than this, had taken the hot red from the battery, and had clamped two more reds to it. One going to the solonoid and one to the starter. The he had taped them together. When I pulled the tape off, the one to the solonoid had completely melted the insulation, and melted/merged into the other one going to the starter. I am not sure why this would have caused so much heat because these are big wires. 8 awg maybe. But that is somewhat frightening to me, and I have since decided to do a complete wire inspection, and replacement of anything suspicious. I take my kids on this boat, and two of them sit right next to the engine. I don't need to say more. But why would that wiring cause so much heat?
 

NYBo

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Re: 12 volt fuse box.

Unless those wires were properly joined, the resistance at the joint could cause high heat. How were they clamped together?
 

LippCJ7

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Re: 12 volt fuse box.

Hey Wolf don't take me the wrong way ok I'm just giving you a hard time, as you hang around more you will learn I am the class/site clown. NYBo Is also one of the posters I respect very much and the debate we had on this thread had zero chance of getting heated as I think we have a mutual respect for each other.

As NYBo stated the connection could be resistive but also the size of the wire could be to small for the load and could be causing heat as well, but you really need to inspect all of the connections first to determine that they are not the problem, then start checking the continuity of the wires themselves to determine if they are any good. I don't know what the current draw to start your motor is, but I can assure you 8 gauge is a mid sized wire, But I don't know if this is the proper sized wire for the starter and solenoid, I'm not familiar with that motor so we would need some more info, if you are planning to replace these wires then we need to figure out what the draw is to determine the proper size wires anyway so the problem may be mute anyway.

OK Wolf after some research I am confident your 8 gauge wire is the reason why you are having heat in that wire(Its way to small), the starter appears to be a standard V8 Starter so I see no reason why you wouldn't wire it the same way a V8 would be, at worst you would have some fudge(added wire size) in there so if your Starter is within 8' of your battery I would use 4 gauge wire for the starter. the thing is that normally there is a jumper from the Solenoid to the starter that I thought was a lead copper strap, this may be missing which would explain why the starter wire was split and then run to the starter but I'm not sure. So in conclusion I believe if you simply wire the solenoid with a 4 gauge wire then jumper from the solenoid to the starter with either a 4 gauge wire or a lead copper strap you will be fine.
 

NYBo

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Re: 12 volt fuse box.

Hey Wolf don't take me the wrong way ok I'm just giving you a hard time, as you hang around more you will learn I am the class/site clown. NYBo Is also one of the posters I respect very much and the debate we had on this thread had zero chance of getting heated as I think we have a mutual respect for each other.
BLOG+AnimatedDroolingCrazyFaceSmiley.gif


BTW, you are right about the wire size. Too small for anything but maybe a small outboard starter, and combined with a questionable splice...
 

LippCJ7

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Re: 12 volt fuse box.

ok I am not sure where you got a picture of my mother but thats funny!!

Uh yeah absolutely 8 gauge wire combined with a horrible splice uh yeah hes actually got uh eh a fuse?
 

wolfscott

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Re: 12 volt fuse box.

Ok guys, you officially crack me up. The splice in question appears to be a standard wire crimp. And the battery is more like a foot from the starter than 8ft. What would make someone run the two wires from the battery cable like that instead of running a jumper? The length of wire is the same. Who knows?? Anyway, the more I dig into this the more I find. I am just going to get methodical about this and replace wiring as I go. My initial thought was the same thing, to small of wiring, but I wanted someone else' opinion. 4 guage wire is what it shall be then. This is an inline six, pretty much the same as the old 70's GMC engines. My understanding is that they were used extensively by mercruiser at the time. So it would make sense that aside from the care taken to preclude water entry, the wiring and connections would be pretty much the same, as far as sizing goes. Thanks guys for the help, and Lipp, you should bring your show here to Vegas on the strip. TEEE HEEE.
 

wolfscott

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Re: 12 volt fuse box.

Ok Gentlemen, here's another I don't know crap about boats question. I am looking at a wiring diagram specific to my engine. And there is a Shift inter-lock switch. I have heard this mentioned before, and as I can gather, it is located on the shift lever. Now, this being an older boat, I dont have anything electrical on my shift lever. It is strictly shift and throttle. Ahhh... the good old days??? Can you guys explain this to me, and is it something I need to add, or at least be concerned about. The diagram shows a wire coming from the coil to this switch. The boat runs fine obviously with out it, but I would like to know what it is. Just curious that way.
 

LippCJ7

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Re: 12 volt fuse box.

OMC = Outboard Marine Corporation (as in Johnson/Evinrude - boats, snowmobiles, outdrives, etc.) until they went belly up and acquired by BRP = Bombardier Recreational Products with only Evinrude and Johnson outboards as survivors. A shift interrupter switch momentarily drops the ignition while shifting to reduce drive train strain and hence ease the shifting process.

I direct quote from the man the myth the legend Silvertip on December 15th, 2007 08:12 AM

I hope this is correct for your application

And while I'm trying to help you theres no need to be rude and call us lowly gentlemen!!:D
 

wolfscott

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Re: 12 volt fuse box.

Ahhh Lipp, once again you crack me up. Since this is a mercruiser it apparently does not apply. And please pardon my indiscretion. So, this weekend I am once again crawling into the wolfrun to try and make some sense of this mess called wiring. One of two things will happen, I will get it right, or it will have a total meltdown in my yard. Wish me luck boys!! (Honey are those fire trucks I hear???)
 

wolfscott

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Re: 12 volt fuse box.

Thank you. I will post some pictures of what I have and what I find. Hopefully someone will learn from them.
 

wolfscott

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Re: 12 volt fuse box.

Well here's what we have. The wire from the batt to the solanoid and the starter have been replaced. All looks good. No heat buildup at all. The mess of the rest of it I am going with a total replacement. I am not sure of the size. Best guess is 16awg. Trying to read the size through the dirt and grease is tough. I will take a piece with me for proper sizing. Also I followed the tach wire and it is connected to the coil. My tach is stuck at 900 rpms. Corrosion maybe? The boat sat for awhile before I bought it. Hmmmmmm?????? Anyway. Its not as bad as I suspected. The best part is the easy access to everything. Can those older tachs be rebuilt or better to get a new one.
 

LippCJ7

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Re: 12 volt fuse box.

Depends, I know Faria can rebuild theirs for a reasonable cost but not knowing who made yours it may just be better to replace it and start anew, got to be some relief to know the starter wiring was an easy fix huh?
 

wolfscott

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Re: 12 volt fuse box.

Yeah, the wiring was a snap. My dad used to say there are two types of men. Those who want to work on cars, and those who have to work on cars. I suppose boats are the same way. In my case I have to work on cars, but I want to work on the boat. Does that seem odd? Thoughts to ponder. Have a good night all.
 

LippCJ7

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Re: 12 volt fuse box.

No its not odd I do the same thing unfortunately my boats still wrapped up for winter!!

I'm in the I have to work on cars thing
 

wolfscott

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Re: 12 volt fuse box.

Ok, let me start out by saying Thank You to all of you. The wiring in the boat has gone well. The power to the solenoid and starter are right. I found a couple of things I needed in the junkyard of all places. (In Vegas??) And I fired that bad boy up. She spit and sputtered a bit. Probably cranky from her nap, but once she woke up, all holy heck broke. She ran bad fast. I am needing to tweak the idle a bit. She is a bit stally on that, but it's all good. She needs a bit of body work now, but thats a time project. When I get the time. So, thank you all again, and as the work progresses, I will post pics. Yeah baby, Lake Mead, here we come.
 
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