115 tower of power carb issue

justin27

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Jul 31, 2014
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I have a 1988 115 tower of power inline 6 I had Ben having flooding issues and took carbs off to adjust the floats while off I dropped the top carb and it broke off the 90 on the bottom of the float bowl and I was wondering how to fix it i was Gona plug it off but it goes to the enriched valve and I'm not sure if I could do that any help is appreciated thanks
 

Chris1956

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See if an easy-out will remove the part still threaded into the carb bowl. If not you could drill and tap it for another fitting. Third choice would be to hit the junkyard and get the choke plates and linkage from the older IL motors. You have sidebowl carbs, right?
 

justin27

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I was also wondering what could cause fuel to come out of the engine where the middle carb bolts up when u build up pressure by pumping up the fuel bulb thanks again for any help
 

Chris1956

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A brass elbow should be avail at a plumbing supply store. Home Despot likely has it. About your fuel leakage, maybe when you pump the primer bulb, the middle carb overflows into the carb throat and that leaks out? However, if it leaks past the gasket, you need a new gasket and a tightening job.
 

justin27

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I have figured out the gas problem turned out to b the fuel pump leaking in to the engine I rebuilt the pump and now it's not leaking does anyone know what tge process to adjust floats is on the tower of powers
 

Chris1956

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You have sidebowl carbs? If so, remove the bowl cover and invert it. Bend the lower lever until the top lever is parallel with the cover. Turn the cover over. The distance between the lever ends should be 1/4". Bend the bottom lever to make that measurement. Make sure the floats are good and have good springs on the tops.
 

justin27

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Thanks for all the help in Gona try to get my carbs back on and test it out this weekend I unhooked the idle stabilizer do I need to do a link and sync after that or should it b ok
 

Chris1956

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gee, it always makes sense to check the link and synch, however, as long as you didn't change the setscrews it should not have changed. Of course that assumes it was correct in the first place.
 

justin27

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Yea I think I will take it out and try it out and go from there I'm hoping the fuel pump fixes not long ago I spent 400 dollars on the carbs and a water pump getting put in the new pump lasted 2 months and the ran worse when I got it back
 

justin27

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Took my boat out today ran awful couldn't even hardly get it to plane off I thought the fuel pump was tge problem but I guess not I'm at my wits end with the boat only would rev to 4100 rpm any ideas on wat could b the issue
 

Chris1956

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OK, Lets start with the basic stuff. Pull the spark plugs and see if any are real clean (like new). If so, you likely have water infiltration. If any are real black, you may have no spark on that cylinder. Next take a compression test. Post back on findings. I can narrate the link and synch procedure if you need it.
 

Chris1956

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BTW - If that motor is hitting 4100RPM, your boat will be on plane. If she is not on plane, you likely have a bad tachometer.
 

justin27

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The compression read 120 on all cylinders but one was 118 and the plugs are black sometimes when goin down lake wot Runing bad it will clear out for a second like another cylinder comes in then shuts back down could this b a stator problem
 

justin27

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It did look like the plugs for cylinder 2 and 3 were cleaner than the rest is it possibly getting water in to those 2 cylinders
 

justin27

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The big screw that u adjust for the timing has wore through the rubber on the end of it and looks like it's wearing down the screw end I'm hoping this is the problem it seemed to rev really good in gear on the muffs when I would hold back on it just a little
 

justin27

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I have already disconeted the idle stabilizer it seemed to help but still didn't get it to how it should run
 
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