Re: 105 Chrysler Carb/Reed Valve Question
Fugeddaboud the reeds! They are not the problem.
You need to disassemble the carbs and check not only float height but inlet needle and seat condition.
If the float height is too high and/or it is touching the casting, then it will not close the needles and since at idle there is very little air flowing through the carbs, raw fuel will dribble or spit out the front of the carbs. In the mid range, it will cause the engine to load up and stumble and at high speed, the engine will lose a little power due to a rich mixture. I would also expect to see easily fouled plugs.
The correct float height is to have it set parallel or even with the casting body with the carb inverted. Blow hard in the fuel inlet fitting. The weight of the float alone should seal the needle and seat and not let any air leak past. If it does, then replace either the needles or seats or both.
You set the float level by putting a small screwdriver underneath the tabs that press on the needle and prying carefully, or use a fine needle nose pliers.
The same holds true if the needles or seats are worn or not fully seated, or, not sealing. Some carbs had rubber tipped needles with solid seats and others had solid needles with a rubber seat. In almost all of the WB carbs, the brass fitting that guides the needle and holds the seat in unscrews. --I think a 3/8 socket is the size. There is a small copper washer under the seat. Do not lose it, or better yet, replace it with new. This washer seals the fitting against leakage. If it is missing, gas will leak around the fittings and, of course, work out into the carb. The rubber seat had a groove on one side, and that side faces the needle--makes it seal easier. However, it is possible to reverse the rubber disc temporarily if you can not get new ones relatively quickly over at The Chrysler Crew and they will work fine.
Total time invested--about 1/2 hour per carb including removal and installation.
While you are at it, replace the fuel pump diaphragm and gasket. New gas with alcohol in it tends to harden them sooner than before and they are cheap and easy to replace. If the old diaphragm is still in good condition, save it in the boat as an emergency replacement.
