fig-fixs-it
Cadet
- Joined
- May 20, 2010
- Messages
- 6
Hello all...first post as you can see. Did a search and didn't seem to find anything but I don't know all of the correct vernacular either so...here we go.
The motor has 189 hours, impeller was replaced maybe two years ago as the overheat alarm was coming on, sounding that code.
As stated I've got a '02 EFI (NOT optimax) motor and I started having an issue that started last year, the last time the boat was used. The issue was that once, for less than a second, the alarm sounded when at WFO (not a code, just a steady BEEP) and power was limited. Once the alarm went off, like I said, less than a second, power was back on and all was good.
Fast forward to this year...hooked the engine up to a hose, ran it prior to a trip down to Louisiana. Ran fine...get to Louisiana and the engine was running pretty well but the alarm did sound a time or two, but only at WFO and after we'd been on-plane for a bit. Meaning if I put it to full throttle the alarm would not come on until the boat had planed out and we'd been running WFO for a little bit. Also, it seemed that if running around 3,000-3,500 rpm, on-plane the alarm would not go off.
Last day of this trip to Louisiana, 6am and we clear the no-wake area (salt water running) and I put it to full throttle, we get on-plane and after a short time, maybe 2 minutes tops, the alarm goes off, still just a solid tone (which I have nightmares about...I hate the alarm), and power is limited, the engine stalls and I'm met with a transom wash-over from the sudden loss of power taking the boat quickly from 50MPH-zero. We decide to fish as best as we can with the trolling motor and let the big motor "cool". I did not think it was an overheat issue, as no code was being beeped, did not know what it was, just that there was some sort of problem.
I proceed to take the hood off, and disconnect the water separating filter sensor (guessing at what it might be), then the on-engine oil tank's low oil level sensor. After letting the motor cool of big time, the alarm is still going off. And it goes off now as soon as the motor is started. Anyway, sorry long boring tale, we finally get back to port. Once there, I put the boat on the trailer, the alarm has now stopped going off. I load the motor while on the trailer...still no alarm. As it's that last day of the trip we decide not to risk it and put the boat away.
Last week I install a new Smartcraft Monitor gauge and put the boat into some a smooth body of water, a canal, and run it. I run it wide open for almost an hour. Watching water psi mostly and RPM. Water pressure seems a little low but I don't know what it should be?
I'm quite perplexed as to what it could be. From what I read, a solid tone from the Smartcraft system is sort of a wildcard of some kinda issue, who knows what. But from my experience things don't just "fix themselves."
And sorry to sound super cheap, but it does not feel like a good value to got to the dealer, have them hook up to my motor, pull a code and charge me $120 for a few minutes of work (and yes I know the scan tool is spendy but c'mon). I've been thinking about buying a used scan tool from eBay or Craigslist...I've seen them out there for $500-$800. And hell, if the dealer is going to charge me $120 to pull a code, why not just pony up and get my own scan tool right? If they do it four times I'm already almost to $500!
Thanks for reading...hope it makes sense, and thanks for any input!
The motor has 189 hours, impeller was replaced maybe two years ago as the overheat alarm was coming on, sounding that code.
As stated I've got a '02 EFI (NOT optimax) motor and I started having an issue that started last year, the last time the boat was used. The issue was that once, for less than a second, the alarm sounded when at WFO (not a code, just a steady BEEP) and power was limited. Once the alarm went off, like I said, less than a second, power was back on and all was good.
Fast forward to this year...hooked the engine up to a hose, ran it prior to a trip down to Louisiana. Ran fine...get to Louisiana and the engine was running pretty well but the alarm did sound a time or two, but only at WFO and after we'd been on-plane for a bit. Meaning if I put it to full throttle the alarm would not come on until the boat had planed out and we'd been running WFO for a little bit. Also, it seemed that if running around 3,000-3,500 rpm, on-plane the alarm would not go off.
Last day of this trip to Louisiana, 6am and we clear the no-wake area (salt water running) and I put it to full throttle, we get on-plane and after a short time, maybe 2 minutes tops, the alarm goes off, still just a solid tone (which I have nightmares about...I hate the alarm), and power is limited, the engine stalls and I'm met with a transom wash-over from the sudden loss of power taking the boat quickly from 50MPH-zero. We decide to fish as best as we can with the trolling motor and let the big motor "cool". I did not think it was an overheat issue, as no code was being beeped, did not know what it was, just that there was some sort of problem.
I proceed to take the hood off, and disconnect the water separating filter sensor (guessing at what it might be), then the on-engine oil tank's low oil level sensor. After letting the motor cool of big time, the alarm is still going off. And it goes off now as soon as the motor is started. Anyway, sorry long boring tale, we finally get back to port. Once there, I put the boat on the trailer, the alarm has now stopped going off. I load the motor while on the trailer...still no alarm. As it's that last day of the trip we decide not to risk it and put the boat away.
Last week I install a new Smartcraft Monitor gauge and put the boat into some a smooth body of water, a canal, and run it. I run it wide open for almost an hour. Watching water psi mostly and RPM. Water pressure seems a little low but I don't know what it should be?
- Water pressure is around 3 psi at idle, in-gear
- Water pressure is around 15 psi when running WFO
I'm quite perplexed as to what it could be. From what I read, a solid tone from the Smartcraft system is sort of a wildcard of some kinda issue, who knows what. But from my experience things don't just "fix themselves."
And sorry to sound super cheap, but it does not feel like a good value to got to the dealer, have them hook up to my motor, pull a code and charge me $120 for a few minutes of work (and yes I know the scan tool is spendy but c'mon). I've been thinking about buying a used scan tool from eBay or Craigslist...I've seen them out there for $500-$800. And hell, if the dealer is going to charge me $120 to pull a code, why not just pony up and get my own scan tool right? If they do it four times I'm already almost to $500!
Thanks for reading...hope it makes sense, and thanks for any input!