Problem is, that appears to be a $300 choice, for each carburetor - of which I believe there are 4. All because jets are obnoxiously stuck.
If you want to use heat, try just a soldering iron. At least that way you control heat flare.
Watch the video. Measure the cable travel and free play.
(note, there is no such drive as a 'pre-alpha'. Responses to your questions will be based mostly on guesses if it requires knowing what drive you have)
You need to kit that carb. Set the height same as the one for the 5.7. Replace the needle valve and seat cause it leaks. I would expect the 5.0 carb to be calibrated too lean for your 5.7. So get a peak at your plugs and see if they show signs of that. Post pics if you want.
Apparently 4.3L Vortec with Mercarb and ThunderboltV ignition. Makes it a '96 or later. Couple hundred horsepower.
That solenoid actually for the starter. The circuit breaker is for the entire system except the trim hydraulic motor.
Note: Purple wires are HOT when the ignition is turned to run. The ONLY things that go on purple are ignition, gauges, choke, oil pressure switch for the fuel pump and alternator excite.
The outer lug on the starter is HOT when the starter is cranking. Its sole purpose is to run an electric...
Even if the carb isn't chinesium, looks like the needle valve and seat probably are. And if you still have your original carb I'd be rebuilding it with a high end kit - no way you wore out an OEM carburetor in a couple hundred hours of use. That is where your quality is, the original.
Sounds like you are wired incorrectly. Turning on the key should not power the fuel pump at all, ever. There are only two ways for the pump to get power:
1) The starter is cranking and the outside lug provides power to what on an OEM harness is the purple/yellow wire going to the pump.
2) The...
Takes a whole lot of water in the oil, and it being totally emulsified into the oil, for it to show at all on the dipstick. If you have an oil suction tool, pull a little off the bottom of the oil pan and look at it.
No such thing as a mechanic in a can. If carburetor needs cleaned/rebuilt/kitted, you take it off, disassemble and clean it. You cannot wash crap out of the carburetor from the outside.
The point is there is HUGE wobble in a 1" shaft installed in that new unused coupler. The motor is not even setting on the mounts, just the stub sticking out of the new coupler. When spun you can see a 1/4" of runout just on that 6" stub of round stock.
Outside of a carb is mostly meaningless. It takes a very small amount of crap to screw up the inside flows.
The gas looks funky in the picture. Might just be the plastic bottle. Needs plugs, filter and carb rebuild at minimum.
