Mating surfaces are good, there is heavy corrosion around the water passages, which we clean up.
My mistake, right hand side of engine, (2,4,6,8)
Engine was just rebuilt in the summer, so it has new headgaskets
5.7 MPI Mercruiser, with a raw water pump....Frequently, if the boat is parked in the water (at anchor or at dock), when we restart the engine it is hydrolocked.
I have removed the exhaust manifolds and risers and checked for obstructions, none. I replaced the dry fit gaskets with one...
Looking for some suggestions going forward. My initial thoughts are to replace the crankshaft, and bearings only. My concern is metal fatigue on the connecting rods and wrist pins from the forward and backward vibration.
The engine has 970 hours.
What would you do in this situation?
Can you expand on that, are you suggesting a “two piece” crankshaft? In other words a crankshaft with a “snout” attached to the end? Or are you saying that it is broken and you are using the “snout” as a door stop?
Well, I was not planning on rebuilding this motor. However, I agree the crank appears to be cracked.
This is an Indmar engine, using a GMC 5.7 Vortec block. What aspects of this motor is different from a mercruiser? Where do you suggest we order parts from?
Not missing the bolt for the harmonic damper. Damper was very tight onto the crank; took a lot of force with the puller to remove the damper. With the damper removed and the crank gear exposed, the crank still moves in and out 1/2” approx.
2002 Mastercraft 5.7 liter M/C Tbi engine
See picture for serial number and model number.
The harmonic balancer moves in and out approx. 1/2”; removed harmonic pulley and timing cover to expose timing chain and gears. Using the harmonic balancer bolt, the “crankshaft” can be pulled and pushed...
