Trailer cross bar. Making it lower.

[PatinIdaho]

My boat sits too high on the trailer. I have already lowered it 1-1/2 using the provided holes for the crossbar. It has helped a little with loading and unloading, however, it still sits about 8 inches above the fenders at the chine.
I can get another 1-1/2 if i move the mounts down to the next hole, but i am wondering if that's a good idea or not as it might induce twist on the side frame. What do you think?

 

[Scott Danforth]

Make new brackets

You need all 6 of those holes

 

[Lou C]

I did something similar with my old Load Rite, I got new brackets from LR that were longer than the ones the trailer came with. Getting the old bolts off (salt water trailer) was "fun". I also got lower mounts for the roller bars which helped as well. So the chine of the boat went from 5" above the fenders to about 2-2.5" above, definitely worth it. When I replaced the old axle with a 6000 lb unit, I got a drop axle, that lowered the whole thing even more.
Those mounts look to be of thick steel, I don't think they'd be easy to make unless you have experience with that.

before lowering, with old 3500 axle:

still before lowering but with drop axle:

after lowering:

the trailer is narrow so that's as low as I can get it, narrow trailer isn't ideal but works better on this narrow ramp and my narrow driveway!

 

[PatinIdaho]

Make new brackets

You need all 6 of those holes

Why would i need all 6 holes?
When im talking about dropping 1 more hole is available. I don't know if it will want to twist the main frame though.

 

[PatinIdaho]

I did something similar with my old Load Rite, I got new brackets from LR that were longer than the ones the trailer came with. Getting the old bolts off (salt water trailer) was "fun". I also got lower mounts for the roller bars which helped as well. So the chine of the boat went from 5" above the fenders to about 2-2.5" above, definitely worth it. When I replaced the old axle with a 6000 lb unit, I got a drop axle, that lowered the whole thing even more.
Those mounts look to be of thick steel, I don't think they'd be easy to make unless you have experience with that.
View attachment 420831
before lowering, with old 3500 axle:
View attachment 420832
still before lowering but with drop axle:
View attachment 420833
after lowering:
View attachment 420834
the trailer is narrow so that's as low as I can get it, narrow trailer isn't ideal but works better on this narrow ramp and my narrow driveway!

Our trailers are constructed very similarly.
I measured today at my chine to finder and after lowering it 1-1/2 inches earlier this summer i still have 8 inches of clearance. Would like to get it lower by about 6 more inches.
Hard to load as it is. Im backing in until my back tires are in the water.
The last 2 boats i have had(same size) were easy to load and unload. The only difference is how they sit on the trailer.

 

[Lou C]

I’ve never seen roller bars like that but it looks like they could be lowered, as long as they can pivot enough. I was able to get lower roller bar mounts from Load Rite.

 

[Lou C]

Go back and look at my pic of the trailer you can see I used very long roller bars that I got from Load Rite on the rear crossmember with the lowest roller bar mounts. That really helped, those I think were 48” long, might work on your boat. You do have to be mindful of the clearance between the keel and the axles & crossmembers though. When I had my new axle made I also had it made with a center saddle section for more keel clearance.