1972 evinrude 50hp 2 stroke. Crank no start.

[icatchfish]

Howdy,
As the title says.
Story:
Motor hits a wall on revs under load. Did up both carbs with new needles, floats, and gaskets. Cleaned up all jets. Carbs were actually fine after getting into them but replaced and cleaned stuff anyway.

Motor fires right up. Screams to life and happy days. Tune up on the water, making progress and then engine dies at the dock. Ended up being the neutral safety switch for the hydro electric shift was dirty (engine side). Cleaned it up, cranks over as intended. Won't start worth a darn.

Got her to come to life eventually, cleaned the sparkys up and bang she fires right up. Trying to now tune up in the driveway as she's a smidgen rough at idle and will die if I let it.

Now, she's a crank no start.

Fresh fuel, checked black and yellow kill switch wire, even sprayed a little cheater fluid to see. Holds prime, set my carb screw settings back to where they *should* be. Just a crank no start.

I have fuel, air, spark. No bang on the suck squeeze bang blow part though.

Any advice would be appreciated.

 

[racerone]

Check flywheel key.

 

[icatchfish]

Check flywheel key.

Just had to Google that. I'm only moderately good with wrenches. Learn by the seat of my pants kinda fellah.

I'll give it a go. Can't be that hard right? Thanks.

 

[racerone]

Remove sparkplug for #1 Turn flywheel.----See if timing pointer is near TDC.----Slow cranking speed means that there is no spark.----So charge battery and load test the battery.----Take starter apart for inspection.

 

[icatchfish]

Remove sparkplug for #1 Turn flywheel.----See if timing pointer is near TDC.----Slow cranking speed means that there is no spark.----So charge battery and load test the battery.----Take starter apart for inspection.

I just finished checking tdc and I'm good. Basically perfect. Some jackoff stole my good sockets from my van and I don't have one big enough for the fly wheel now anyway.

Battery has seen some drain over testing but I wouldn't say enough to be an issue yet. Still seeing those high cranking rpms.

I'll double check spark here, no light just eyes, and if spark is good I'll charge up the battery and take the starter gear off to clean and lube again.

 

[icatchfish]

Remove sparkplug for #1 Turn flywheel.----See if timing pointer is near TDC.----Slow cranking speed means that there is no spark.----So charge battery and load test the battery.----Take starter apart for inspection.

Can now confirm, no spark cylinder 1. Good spark on #2. Swapped the two plugs to confirm and it's definitely a cylinder 1 issue.

Do you know of any other wiring to check before I get into having to source and replace an ignition coil?

Thanks.

 

[jimmbo]

Swap the Coils, to see if the Problem moves with the Coil
Good Spark? Can it jump a 3/8" Gap?

 

[icatchfish]

Swap the Coils, to see if the Problem moves with the Coil
Good Spark? Can it jump a 3/8" Gap?

Swapped the cylinder 1 and 2 wires in this box here. Spark followed to cylinder 1 accordingly and cut off at cylinder 2. So ignition coil is good. Any idea what is in-between this box and ignition coil thay could be faulty?

Spark jumps plenty according to my eye, but my glasses are a little dirty lol. You can hear the spark snapping good when it jumps.

 

[icatchfish]

So I also swapped the 5 and 6 wires from that box to see if that would chase the spark (2 and 3 wires stayed 2 and 3). Spark stayed the same, only cylinder 2.

Does this sound like this box is this issue?

Thanks for all the help.

 

[icatchfish]

In preparation for needing a power pack. Could I get some advice on where is the best place to purchase and ship to Canada?

Evinrude 50272C

I currently found an after market one installed part number OEA 9375

I really appreciate any help, I've learned lots on this little journey.

 

[racerone]

Try----evinrudeparts.ca----Good people.

 

[icatchfish]

Try----evinrudeparts.ca----Good people.

Appreciate it. They do not have one in stock. And considering the cost of one is about the cost of what I paid for my boat I'm not eager to pull the trigger without doing all the free testing I can.

I do not own a multimeter. I am taking your advice of battery testing or rather ensuring full charge. I can tell it's cranking fast enough *so I think* because i experienced this once already. However I did read that if the battery drops below 9.5 volts during cranking it simply won't engage the power pack. I can charge the battery for free so may as well.

New battery. 12v group 24 705mca.

Thank goodness I read about the wasted spark method and this motor. I was pretty close to trying it.

So, charge battery and clean the sparkys. I should be able to post an update tomorrow. Tonight I will reinstall the power pack and clean the sparkys. If I end up with the same result of no spark on cylinder 1 I will likely pull the trigger on a power pack.

*I'm a bit of a hack, mostly due to access to tool issues*

Once again, appreciate any help given. Wicked place the forum is.

 

[racerone]

The ignition does not use 12 volts to make the spark.-----The flywheel must spin fast to energize the ignition system.----Your location?

 

[jimmbo]

He is in Saskatchewan.

 

[racerone]

Too far away to walk over for help.

 

[icatchfish]

So, yes I am in saskatchewan. South central, fish on deifenbaker.

I re tested spark with both plugs removed at the same time so cranking rpms weren't an issue whatsoever. No spark cylinder 1, brought spark over by swapping cylinder wires on power pack.

Also, idiots like me should be baby sat. I decided to swap trigger and cylinder wires on the power pack to their opposites to see if I could get it to run on cylinder 1 for funsies. Didn't work. Blew a fuse, now have to Google up what fuse because the burn destroyed the markings. I did verify that power came back by using a screw bit to jump it and test by engaging the electric choke.

 

[icatchfish]

Update:

I have found out it's a 20amp inline glass fuse.

I have sourced an aftermarket powerpack emp 300-07010, it appears to be the same aftermarket one currently installed based on pictures. Screwed up my shipping address (went po box instead of street address) and the website won't update it for me, I will call them tomorrow to sort it out and order it.

Gosh dang, with no real testing equipment I sure hope this is the problem, and that popping that fuse didn't destroy the rectifier or starter cylinoid. Blew the fuse after cranking 3 different times, she might turn into a rope puller. Time will tell.

Thanks.

 

[icatchfish]

New update (newbies pay attention)

DO NOT UNDER ANY CIRCUMSTANCES PLAY WITH YOUR ELECTRONICS UNLESS YOU KNOW WHAT YOU ARE DOING.

I decided to bypass my blown fuse to attempt to confirm if I need any other parts. Everything instantly died. I panicked and thought I just created worst case scenario for myself. Lucky me, the fuse holder from 1972 blew apart and stopped me from destroying anything else. I re bypassed by cleaning off some corrosion and burn marks, applied power, saw the choke go to "ready position" and immediately disconnected power. Hopefully this old fuse holder saved me many painful headaches.

Do not run random tests unless you know what you are doing.

My next update will either be friendly responses to telling me I'm an idiot. Or, I will have a new power pack and blade fuse holder installed.

Thanks.