Repainting a 1989 Crestliner Sabre G/L outboard

[fishbait2]

I am going to repaint my 1989 Crestliner Sabre G/L 22ft boat. I do not want to remove the old paint but I will lightly sand it all. The hull has a lot of paint that has washed away on the bottom and a few small bare aluminum spots here and there. Wondering if others have attempted this and how you did it? Also what paint you used? I understand that below the water line has to be the proper paint. But I am not sure if you can paint a coat of top coat paint then need a bottom non copper paint over that if only keeping it Docked or nothing if trailering?
Apparently paint that is not correct can absorb water and blister. I would like a semi - gloss or gloss finish. The colors are , the hull very light gray and has a red wine color wide strip on each side. Top is light gray with red stickers. I trailer my boat and it sits currently on a roller trailer at all other times. Never in the water over night. But I have seen on line that some issues can occur wherever the boat sits on the trailer because water sits there between the boat and trailer. Any help is appreciated

 

[Scott Danforth]

Sand the bare spots and hit with a zinc dichromate primer

Use a hardener in the paint

 

[MikeSchinlaub]

Use a single stage paint for everything. It's more durable than a base/clear paint job. How much you sand off depends on the condition of the existing paint.

Based on the age, I'd bet there are a lot of spots that are going to chip away. If they're like tiny rock chips, you can get away with just painting over them. If they're about the size of your little finger nail, I would recommend sealer. Anything bigger, use a good primer and sand it.

Avoid hitting the rivets with your sander. Go back over those with a scotch brite pad.

Do you have paint experience?

 

[airshot]

Does your boat sit in the water during the boating season or sit on a trailer? No copper paint on an aluminum hull ! If your boat is trailered, it is not as critical as if it sits moored all season. My 1992 boat sits on a trailer and the bottom looks like new other than a few nicks and scrapes. Once you get it painted and cured, use spray on car wax a few times each season to keep crap from sticking to your hull. Makes it much easier to clean and no need to buff it out.

 

[fishbait2]

Use a single stage paint for everything. It's more durable than a base/clear paint job. How much you sand off depends on the condition of the existing paint.

Based on the age, I'd bet there are a lot of spots that are going to chip away. If they're like tiny rock chips, you can get away with just painting over them. If they're about the size of your little finger nail, I would recommend sealer. Anything bigger, use a good primer and sand it.

Avoid hitting the rivets with your sander. Go back over those with a scotch brite pad.

Do you have paint experience?

Yes I have painted cars. I wanted to roll and tip paint the boat. So far I am puzzled why not more paints are not both top and below the water line? Some that talk about made below the water line are not gloss but flat or matt. Crestliner used PPG acrylic enamel baked on from the factory in 1989 above and below the water line, top and hull . So even though the manufacturers are saying,”No you can’t leave the boat in the water over 48 hrs “ that I could paint it with a number of different paints and trailer it and may be just fine . Aluminum flexes so guessing I would need to make sure the paint can do that and is tough enough to withstand bumps and scrapes from the trailer and docking. Need some ideas on paints to use as it’s been 37 yrs since I painted a car.

 

[fishbait2]

Use a single stage paint for everything. It's more durable than a base/clear paint job. How much you sand off depends on the condition of the existing paint.

Based on the age, I'd bet there are a lot of spots that are going to chip away. If they're like tiny rock chips, you can get away with just painting over them. If they're about the size of your little finger nail, I would recommend sealer. Anything bigger, use a good primer and sand it.

Avoid hitting the rivets with your sander. Go back over those with a scotch brite pad.

Do you have paint experience?

What paint do you suggest?

 

[fishbait2]

Does your boat sit in the water during the boating season or sit on a trailer? No copper paint on an aluminum hull ! If your boat is trailered, it is not as critical as if it sits moored all season. My 1992 boat sits on a trailer and the bottom looks like new other than a few nicks and scrapes. Once you get it painted and cured, use spray on car wax a few times each season to keep crap from sticking to your hull. Makes it much easier to clean and no need to buff it out.

My boat is trailered

 

[Scott Danforth]

What paint do you suggest?

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[MikeSchinlaub]

What paint do you suggest?

We use Nason Fulthane single stage on top and bottom. I don't know how well it would work as a roll on though.

I think bottom paints are flat because it's more of an anti foul coating than actual paint. If you don't leave yours in the water though, it's not necessary.

 

[airshot]

Because your boat is trailered, quality of paint is far less critical. Also what kind of a Finnish are you looking for ? Fancy show finishes require fancy paints, but just putting a Finnish on a hull can be most anything. I used Rust-oleum exterior on my 12' Jon boat over 8 years back, still looks like new but sits under roof when not in use. Some use automotive type paint and some use the marine type paint. Brush, roller, spray ??? All makes a difference in what type of paint you are going to use. Because the boat is not stored in the water, you have more options of less expensive paint. I don't know what type of paint was used on my 1992 Sylvan, but it still looks excellent, even still shines but does have a few scrapes and scratches on her hull. Sides are vinyl wrapped over some basic white paint looks like what is on the bottom. My hull looks almost new when cleaned up with a quick spray wax, but my boat is stored inside when not in use....that makes a big difference!

 

[fishbait2]

Because your boat is trailered, quality of paint is far less critical. Also what kind of a Finnish are you looking for ? Fancy show finishes require fancy paints, but just putting a Finnish on a hull can be most anything. I used Rust-oleum exterior on my 12' Jon boat over 8 years back, still looks like new but sits under roof when not in use. Some use automotive type paint and some use the marine type paint. Brush, roller, spray ??? All makes a difference in what type of paint you are going to use. Because the boat is not stored in the water, you have more options of less expensive paint. I don't know what type of paint was used on my 1992 Sylvan, but it still looks excellent, even still shines but does have a few scrapes and scratches on her hull. Sides are vinyl wrapped over some basic white paint looks like what is on the bottom. My hull looks almost new when cleaned up with a quick spray wax, but my boat is stored inside when not in use....that makes a big difference!

I am leaning towards roll and tip on the hull because the boat is sitting on a roller trailer. I figure I can roll it after paint is cured to paint the spots the rollers were touching the hull by moving the boat back and forth to get at those spots. I was leaning to rustoleum but have seen some post suggesting the paint cracks in a climate that freezes in winter. Anyone have boats large boats that have used this type of paint and what the results are? I am just trying to find that paint that is quick but has a semi or gloss and is tough enough to handle the roller trailer and scuffs and bumps at the dock. The boat is outside all year long and covered with a tarp or canvas. But I also don't want to do all the work and have the paint fail. I typically over do everything and are very cautious to make sure I am doing the right thing. If you take care of it, it takes care of you type thing. Paints have changed since back in my day so its like relearning all over again. So I am thinking from what others have said I can use some type of good tough pliable paint on the hull above and below the water line since I trailer. But its also a good Idea to use a yearly anti type bottom wax on the hull below the waterline to help protect the paint. Since I really don't know what the red stripe paint on the side above the waterline is made of or possibly the gray hull paint I need to use some type of paint that could be a bonding and blocking primer or something before I put a regular primer on the boat over the existing paint. Then roll and tip the final finish coat with a decent semi or gloss coat. Am I on the right track?

 

[airshot]

From my limited painting experience, bare aluminum requires a zink cromate type primer. Painted aluminium m just needs scuffed if old paint is sticking well. On my Jon boat I rolled then used rattle an spray for the tight spots a roller wouldn't go. No cracks in paint from cold or anything else in the time I have had it, and we have been at -20 degrees a couple times. Your boat is probably to big to flip over, so yes moving it on the trailer is an option, just be sure the paint fully cures ( 30 days recomended) before moving to touch up. I use Turtle wax spray on car wax/ cleaner on my boat. Very easy to spraying and do a light buff above the waterline, no need for any buffing below the waterline. It really helps keep the crud from sticking or staining the paint. I can do my 16' V hull in less than a half hour, do it about once a month to jeep the boat looking good. Mine is stored in my barn which helps slow down aging greatly!! Sitting outside really speeds up the aging process, even with a cover.

 

[MikeSchinlaub]

I don't have much knowledge on paint properties and comparisons, just work experience. I work in a repair shop in Indiana, so we get freezing temps too.

If you need to primer, you can use a direct to metal primer. I don't know if that's a zinc cromate formula, but it works. Then you can sand it and do your roll on coat.