Bought my first boat to tinker on. Looking for advice

kcassells

Fleet Admiral
Joined
Oct 16, 2012
Messages
8,614
Those other areas left and right of transom and higher areas need to be removed.
Save all the skins they can be used to place back. Saves a lot of glass work.
Looking good. And shop/compare pricing
 

TripleJGraffis

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Jan 18, 2024
Messages
286
Those other areas left and right of transom and higher areas need to be removed.
Save all the skins they can be used to place back. Saves a lot of glass work.
Looking good. And shop/compare pricing
Why does more need to be removed? All the wood is out. The areas to the left and right of the transom are just one layer of fiberglass. If I remove them, then there is no stern.
 

kcassells

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Oct 16, 2012
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8,614
Why does more need to be removed? All the wood is out. The areas to the left and right of the transom are just one layer of fiberglass. If I remove them, then there is no stern.
To me looked like the glass was fractured.
 

kcassells

Fleet Admiral
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Oct 16, 2012
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8,614
I cannot tell if these areas are compromised. I would suspect it has wood in there.
 

TripleJGraffis

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Jan 18, 2024
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286
I cannot tell if these areas are compromised. I would suspect it has wood in there.
There is no wood to the left and right.... just that area in the middle that is already cut out. Only a layer of fiberglass is to the left and right. No wood.
 

TripleJGraffis

Petty Officer 1st Class
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Jan 18, 2024
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286
Need your help guys... working on the motor today... compression is 105...105.... and 65 on the top most cylinder.... got the head off. doesn't seem like a gasket issue. Gasket Seems intact. But have a look and advise away.
Also... last night when I tried starting it up.....I got it to somewhat start and then it died..... it never got to the point where I could stop turning the key and keep it running.... today.... it wasn't as successful. Revelation up a little bit.... stopped and then the starter got hot and started smoking the longer I kept the key turned... so I stopped... funny thing though.... when.I got the head removed....I fired turned the key... knowing the engine wouldn't torn over.... but I wanted to see what the pistons did.... and all of them started moving continuously and without any sputtering or stopping like it did with the head on.... is that normal? Wish I could attach videos on here from my phone.

Top cylinder looks definitely questionable. What kind of repair am I looking at?
 

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havoc_squad

Senior Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Mar 5, 2011
Messages
709
Need your help guys... working on the motor today... compression is 105...105.... and 65 on the top most cylinder.... got the head off. doesn't seem like a gasket issue. Gasket Seems intact. But have a look and advise away.
Also... last night when I tried starting it up.....I got it to somewhat start and then it died..... it never got to the point where I could stop turning the key and keep it running.... today.... it wasn't as successful. Revelation up a little bit.... stopped and then the starter got hot and started smoking the longer I kept the key turned... so I stopped... funny thing though.... when.I got the head removed....I fired turned the key... knowing the engine wouldn't torn over.... but I wanted to see what the pistons did.... and all of them started moving continuously and without any sputtering or stopping like it did with the head on.... is that normal? Wish I could attach videos on here from my phone.

Top cylinder looks definitely questionable. What kind of repair am I looking at?

If that's a force outboard, I'd say stick a fork in that powerhead and call it scrap metal. I'll give the details why below on the damage I see.

Force engines becoming ever more difficult to obtain parts for key items.

You'd probably be better off looking for a 1981/1982 and up V4 crossflow or maybe a evinrude/johnson 3 cylinder looper (not sure of the best year model ranges for that)

As regarding powerhead condition description based off of photos.

Top cylinder looks like it ran lean and detonation/pre-ignition happened.

Having damage on the edge of the crown of the piston on the exhaust side is usually points that the likely failure point was detonation/pre-ignition.

You will likely end up nickel & diming your way to $1700 worth of machine shop labor, powerhead shipping, and parts. Definitely NOT worth it for that outboard.
 

TripleJGraffis

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Jan 18, 2024
Messages
286
If that's a force outboard, I'd say stick a fork in that powerhead and call it scrap metal. I'll give the details why below on the damage I see.

Force engines becoming ever more difficult to obtain parts for key items.

You'd probably be better off looking for a 1981/1982 and up V4 crossflow or maybe a evinrude/johnson 3 cylinder looper (not sure of the best year model ranges for that)

As regarding powerhead condition description based off of photos.

Top cylinder looks like it ran lean and detonation/pre-ignition happened.

Having damage on the edge of the crown of the piston on the exhaust side is usually points that the likely failure point was detonation/pre-ignition.

You will likely end up nickel & diming your way to $1700 worth of machine shop labor, powerhead shipping, and parts. Definitely NOT worth it for that outboard.
It's not a force... it's a Suzuki..... but I am thinking the same thing... not afraid to spend that kind of money though..as long as I get a working engine out of it whether or be to bring this motor back to life or spend that much for a working used one.
 

racerone

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Dec 28, 2013
Messages
36,480
Motor must be taken apart for a complete evaluation.----Do not forget taking lower unit apart as well.
 

stresspoint

Lieutenant Junior Grade
Joined
Sep 19, 2022
Messages
1,007
take it apart , see how bad it is in the bores etc , parts used to be easy to come by when my brother had his and prices were not too bad either .
you may just get away with aa re ring and a hone , but be prepared for the worst .
as i posted earlier the starter is a weak link , you have probably smoked it now so add that to the list .
as posted by racer one , take the leg off and service the water pump while its in bits as that may have been why the cylinder is done for.
so call this a lesson learned , never by an outboard without doing a comp test and seeing it running... luckily it was not a real expensive motor so not too much lost , if anything use it to learn about 2 smoke outboards , they are a simple as an outboard gets so have some fun with it learning .
 

havoc_squad

Senior Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Mar 5, 2011
Messages
709
It's not a force... it's a Suzuki..... but I am thinking the same thing... not afraid to spend that kind of money though..as long as I get a working engine out of it whether or be to bring this motor back to life or spend that much for a working used one.
As mentioned previously, parts support is the biggest concern.

Next biggest concern is making sure it isn't a crappy engine design like the Evinrude FICHT outboards.

If those two pass and it is a fully rebuildable core, then it might be worth it.

For that old of a Suzuki, I'd say pass on spending the money to rebuild powerhead.

Where you going to find a replacement lower unit or trim/tilt unit if either goes out for that model?
 

redneck joe

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Mar 18, 2009
Messages
10,372
part it out and find another, newer, running that you know has proper compression form the start. imo compression is primary on any buy, in/out of gear and able to start and stay running for at least a little bit. The other stuff is usually easy and relatively cheap. Breaking down powerheads is not on my list of things I want to do.


or keep it and play with it in a couple years when you get another one on and you are on the water.
 
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