Yes sir. All that was replaced. Engine has 4300 hours and still running well other than surging at idle when warm. Been dealing with this off and on for 2 years and mechanics can’t figure it out. I’m do for a repower but was hoping to get a few more months out of her. Thank you for comment...
Ok, this issue is stumping me. I have a 1996 5.7Gi tbi with severe surging (see video). Replaced IAC, tested TBP sensor, new thermostat sensor, and electronic fuel pumps were recently replaced. Usually starts when engine warmed up. Cruising speed has no problems. Last option I can think of...
So my engine (1996 VP 5.7 Gi) RPM's were erratic, jumping up and down at idle. Cleaned the IAC and problem solved. Now, after a month of boating, boat won't start, just cranks, catches, and dies. I have to use clear flood mode by opening the throttle 75% to get engine started. Boat runs fine...
Going to re-power. VP 5.7Gi has 4,100 hours. Stuff starting to go bad and tired of constant, costly repairs. Does anybody have input on the new VP V8? I'm hesitant with the aluminum block in salt water. How's that engine performing? I have a 22' Davis boat (Radon). Thank you.
-Eric...
Searched web and not in the shop manual. Pulled outdrive to my 5.7 Gi DP-S and have to remove pivot shield to get to bolt but it's locked up. Is there a way to manually remove the power steering or do I need to turn my boat on to turn it? Don't want to do that as no water hook-up. Any help...
So I removed the outdrive (1996 Volvo Penta DP-S) to try and change out a ruptured hydraulic line but the pivot housing is still preventing me from accessing the hydraulic lines. Does that need to come out as well? Also, how do you turn an outdrive manually? I have power steering and it is...
So I need to change a ruptured hydraulic tilt line and need to remove my 1996 DP-S outdrive to access connections. My concern is aligning the drive back up. Can I do this myself or do I need a second person? Also, I'm not messing with the engine but do I still need an alignment tool to put...
This one is stumping me. Engine starts fine, runs great but will occasionally stall at idle after warmed and running and often won't restart. Engine will finally start after letting it cool down. From what I've researched one problem can be the water coolant thermometer sensor. Can this be...
Just put in a new HX . My engine block was drained and now h
ave no idea where to put in the antifreeze back in? Don't want to introduce cool water to a hot engine as the thermostat need to open and may crack my block. Any suggestions?
Thank you, Eric
So I need to pressure test my VP 5.7Gi block for leaks. Suspect a blown head gasket do to water in oil but engine runs fine. From last post, salt water pouring out (and I mean pouring!) of RW reservoir. Engine now overheats. Pulled HX to pressure test but not much on web hot to do procedure...
So I have a 1996 5.7Gi VP, fresh water cooled with heat exchanger and now the fresh water reservoir is overflowing, dumping salt water into my bilge at higher RPM's. How is this possible? Leak in HE? The boat ran fine as long as I had bilge evacuating all the salt water spilling out onto...
I have owned my 1996 boat with 5.7Gi engine and DP-S for 16 years and never had an overheat issue. Recently I had salt water in the gear oil so had a mechanic tear the outdrive down and found grooves in prop shaft where seal would sit allowing water in drive. Long story short, after getting...
After a nightmare experience pulling my main DP to change gear oil (had to use a prop puller) I noticed main prop shaft seal leaking gear oil near the bottom. Has anyone changed this type of seal without pulling the bearing carrier? I know that is the proper way but I hear the special tools...
I have the DP-S outdrive and now can't raise my outdrive because of a hydraulic hose leak on my starboard side. Ordered a new hose but having major trouble accessing the screw at the transom to replace. Does my outdrive have to come off? Even with the outdrive tilted to the left, there is...
