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Doesn't look like it is the tachometer. When running with the diode out and the temperature switch disconnected I don't blow the fuse. Does anyone know how to test the switch? It has a fuel line laying right on top of it that looks like it may have rubbed the wires some. However it shows an...
After replacing the diode with one I had on hand it seemed to work until I quickly hit about 3800 rpms then the ignition fuse blew again. I unhooked the tach and was able to hit 3800 quickly and the fuse didn't pop. My question now is how high do I dare run on water muffs in the driveway...
The diode is shorted both directions. If I try running the boat now without the diode in, would that be a good test? Wondering if I ran it like that and didn't blow the fuse if that would prove the diode is the culprit?
Thank you, definitely worth a try. I can test it tomorrow. Have you heard if this is common? The TKS diode service bulletin I had read said it caused the engine to keep running or be hard to start at warm temp, but didn't mention a blown fuse. But I'm willing to try the diode. Thank you!
Appreciate the response, but I've checked all wiring and even ran it in the dark to see if I could see a spark anywhere in the engine compartment when the fuse blew but nothing.
I have a 2005 4.3l mercruiser. At rpm above 3000 I blow the ignition fuse. I have checked and taped any bare wires. I replaced the coil. I disconnected the tachometer at the dash. I ran it without the alternator connected. Problem stayed through all of this. I'm at a loss of what to do...
