FORUM RULES UPDATED - The forum rules have been updated to continue to provide a friendly and safe environment for our member community. Please take a moment to review the updated rules and our terms of use and privacy policy. Click here for Forum Rules which has links to the 'terms of use' and 'privacy policy'.
It's leaking out the boot of the actuator. I am not sure what brand of backing solenoid it is but it was replaced the first time I did this. It came with the actuator. When we do park the boat in the yard it is a steep incline. Could that be damaging the solenoid, which then blows out a seal on...
We have had this little 2011 18' Crownline boat going on 5 years now. Once again the master cylinder for the surge brakes has sprung a leak on the single axle Eagle trailer. This will be the 3rd or 4th one I have put on there since we bought it! The last one I bought was a Dexter so it's not...
The 90amp fuse was indeed blown. I have ordered one which should be here around Friday. Already have the new ignition switch & have it wired in. Since the key switch wasn't working properly, I am assuming it shorted itself out causing this fuse to blow. I will know more after I get it all...
This looks very much like my setup. It’s actually a 4 pole ignition switch. 10g red on Battery, 3 purple on the ignition, red/yellow on starter, and 2 smaller red off the auxiliary. I have checked just about everything in that picture except the 90amp on the starter solenoid. I will start there...
Shouldn’t I at least be getting 12v to the key before starting those tests? I am not sure where that 10-12 gauge red wire goes after it goes up into the wire loom. I assume that is where my 12v comes in to the ignition switch. There is another red wire about that size that goes to the fuse block...
I was doing some PM's on the boat. Oil change, gearlube change, cleaned spark arrester, & new distributer cap. After I finished, I wanted to run it to make sure lube levels were good. Turned the key... nothing. Turned it back & forth a couple more times than the ignition switch turned farther...
I was doing some PM's on the boat. Oil change, gearlube change, cleaned spark arrester, & new distributer cap. After I finished, I wanted to run it to make sure lube levels were good. Turned the key... nothing. Turned it back & forth a couple more times than the ignition switch turned farther...
Well my wife is a therapist so I am doomed! No matter what I say or how I say it, it will be wrong! :)
So after putting two new solenoids in, my trim still did not work. Went back through all of the test. It wasn't until I did the jumpers from the battery to the motor that I found a ground did...
While they were still wired up in the boat I took voltage test from the ground & then touched the other lead to all posts of the solenoid. One side had voltage the other none. After I jumped wires from the battery to the motor & found it worked I put the battery jumper wires on the large posts...
No I have battery voltage after the 110amp fuse. I am not getting anything on the motor side of the solenoid. I also bypassed the solenoid & went from battery to motor & it works in both directions. Unfortunately I am going to have to wait a week to get my new solenoids through Amazon. I might...
I jumped from the battery to the motor & the motor works in both directions. I also ran a jumper across the terminals on both solenoids & got nothing. Not even a click. So I am about 95% sure my solenoids are both bad. What would cause me to lose both of them at the same time? I am hoping that...
I recall doing this to a starter solenoid years back so I took a screwdriver across the two large terminals & got nothing. Not 100% sure on that test though. As stated before there was a coating of material all over the terminals & wire ends so I can't say for sure if I had a good enough...
Okay, so I have tested the trim switch up towards the dash of the boat. I had continuity when the button was pressed. I also tested it towards the back of the boat at the trim switch connector. Everything was good there to. I have done continuity checks on all of the fuses, they are good & I had...
