Even if you were (over trimming) that's one helluva picture. What's your MPH....65? I don't see a "pad" but the lifting strakes down the hull surely help you to get where you are......the fine spray mist helps to support your speed.....moving right along....noticing your caps on backwards so...
Are we getting any feedback on our efforts to solve this problem. Has the owner checked for a hook? What I'm seeing in the pictures posted, if the owner doesn't have the engine tucked all the way in, he has a horrible hook and it ought to be noticeable with the necked eye....wouldn't even need...
You don't have to have a hassle, or hold anything. Just get out your "impact " wrench and have at it, no holding required. Nothing like impact to remove a nut.....BTDT many times...like just yesterday I was trying to remove the alternator pulley on one of my tractors. It had a hex socket...
Noticed how many "new??" companies are getting into the auto repair insuring business. They use that logo
"remember, everything man-made will fail." Gotta be money in the business.....I guess....time will tell.
Long stints sitting on a trailer with inadequate support is what causes a hook in the hull. Easy to spot. Agree with Chris on the comment. Just think about it.....if you have a depression in the hull preceding the transom, the water flowing down the hull underneath, depresses in the center of...
On the "tricky trim" something that I learned: If the front edge of the AV plate is below the hull line (as measured herein) bow lift at higher trim angles responds much better. Problem is that if you want speed, having the AV plate below the hull line adds drag to the system and top end isn't...
Well you have fluid in the system that can apply force where needed even though you need to "grunt" a little if the pump quits. With electric, I would imagine that there is nothing.......you can't manually push electrons around in a bunch of wires. With cars and tractors, if the pump stops...
I'd investigate hydraulic assisted steering before I went electric. What's your problem with your OEM setup? Hard steering, releasing the steering wheel and the boat ventures off to the right or left?
Hard steering could be lack of lube in the linkage from the helm to or inside the engine...
Not knowing your experience with the subject, the engine needs to be vertical. The drain and vent screw(s) need to be removed. The pump equipped bottle of fluid is better as you can do a better/easier job. WM. sells the Mercury/Quicksilver LU lube in such a quart bottle and it's good for all...
Why not. Oil is there to keep metal off metal. The harder (better) the film the better the protection. In things that have to pump oil to get initial lube, thin oil is necessary in winter conditions but has to thicken up as temps rise. Otherwise the film isn't firm enough to prevent metal to...
Considered Ballistic props? Their SS blades have a lot of Rake and squared off, cupped tips on the blades. Lot of design there to get the bow up when you are after the MPHs. My last boat was a Crestliner 17 1/2' Fish Hawk dual console with a 2002 2 stroke 115 Merc. Prop was a 22P Ballistic...
I had a 2002 90. I didn't boat very often and when out for the first time after a long dry spell, It's thirsty. Bulb has to be hard and battery needs to be topped off. Key needs to moved to the ON position and pushed in for about 30 seconds prior to activating the starter to get some fuel to...
Having resurrected a well abused 1965 18'Starcraft 110 HP I/O...like sat half submerged in a marina for who knows how long...... The Starcraft and similar aluminum boats are easy to work on. Deck is plywood but easily removed. Transom probably not a problem but mine was and wasn't a problem to...
