Can't help you there but you just caused me to recollect another of the reasons I didn't like my tri-hulls....If you were heading N for example and the wind is blowing up decent waves from the East, with the helm on the Starboard side of the boat, you got wet as the Starboaard Sponson threw a...
On my last boat I had a temp gauge and as you, I could see the poppet open since the engine temp would drop to the ambient surface of the lake temp. The boat in my Avatar was 2 years old when I bought it. First time out I honored the "No Wake" area near the launch and everything was working...
We each have our own idea as to how we maintain our equipment. I'm a "don't fix it if it ain't broke" guy especially on water pump related work due to the accessibility. If I were going 25 miles out in the ocean I would surely have a more conservative attitude than the couple of hours I putted...
Don't know about that model era but it may be/probably is related to the 2000+ year models. I had a 2002 90 3 cyl. and a 2002 115 4 cyl. and they seemed to be the same except for the extra cylinder extension making the cowling taller. The OEM service manual showed reference to the 75 (Jet) all...
Yea Jimmbo we both know that if its cupped, besides the progressive pitch, you can just look at the blade and clearly see the tip of the blades are bent up slightly....I say slightly as I read prop design literature explain that the amount of cup depends on the total prop design and you can have...
I had several of them when they were popular....1970-80's. It's a trim-hull and I didn't like mine especially for Sunday trips after church with the family aboard. But at the time that was all that was available where I boated and shopped, other than an open aluminum Skiff/John type boat...
I guess I missed something over the years. Other than Turning Point Hustler aluminum prop mfgr. the only cupped props of which I was aware were "most" SS props.
My experience with cupping is better bite at high trim angles and in sharper turns it helps to prevent "prop ventilation"......the...
.....and the peak of the torque curve is usually much lower than the max RPM point.....at least that's the way it is on 4 stroke diesels and gassers....one of the things that I always found interesting is that OEM outboard mfgrs. never posted their engine torque curves......except for one...
It's a "Moment of Inertia" thing......Foot-Pounds. You have the pounds in the items lifting capabilities which is constant but when you add "feet" to the equation it becomes more effective! Its like sliding a pipe over the handle of a wrench trying to turn a nut that won't budge!
Plus seals on screws removed when changing LU lube as a potential culprit. If soapy water doesn't show anything, get a tub of water and with the LU pressurized as stated..like 10 PSI, submerge the LU and put it in different positions while submerged. Some seals are bi-directional....lip one...
Exactly. I rescued an 18' Starcraft Holiday with a Merc. I/O that had been badly abused. When I got the outdrive apart, the rear of forward gear and front of the clutch dog were just like Chris said. The problem with that is that there isn't enough material in the right dimension to stay...
