Okay, still had the last harness for an 1981 35....not sure why but this is 3 that I've redone. I'm thinking maybe was hooked up backwards once but who knows. It's what's under the tape. This one ran but would cut out at high speed.
The wd-40 goes in where the rope goes. Grab the rope handle, pull out the rope and squirt it in the hole. Fill that sucker then work it in and out.
Get full of crap and you can't pull it over fast enough.
Big arm motor!
Starting fluid starts it without as much effort but is bad for the...
Back of the head....sensor coming off the top and typically a tan wire.
Usually there is a rubber cover you slide off to revel a knife connector...I stab a pick in there and ground it to a clean ground. With the key on the alarm horn should blair.
Sender or horn...I find the horn fails the most.
Agreed, but points and condensers vrs pp and gearcase are the two biggest differences. Older ones slightly more finicky.
Books will always be good but there's SO much online now....schematics and advice.
That and I was poking fun at Crosbyman. 🤗🤓
Could be that SPECIAL sweet tea...none of that funny stuff in there I hope! Lol....
Get an IR gun and shoot the temp at where the head meets the block. Also shoot around the T-stat area.
Blockage, bad impeller, T-stat, and overheat sensor are all suspect.
Pretty sure that's made by Suzuki.
Vro still on it or has it been deleted?
Tell tale stream only tells you the impeller is good so buy an IR gun and shoot around.
Do you know how to test the overheat system? Learn how if you don't.
I've restored a bunch of those...for some reason I had to redo the wiring harness on the motor...wires rot out. Peel back some of the tape and look at the condition of the wires. Compression is good, now do a spark gap test...looking for a 3/8 gap test. Easy to sink to much money into these old...
Those will run with slightly lower compression. Those big recoil gears are tough to pull. Not sure whether yours is wrong without pictures but when I get an old 9.9 or 15 I pull the rope out as far as I can and spray a 1/2 can of wd40 in there. Then crank it a bunch of times. Always works way...
Run it, get back and check for water after an hour or two of it sitting. Their pretty tough.
Best is a vacuum test. 12 lbs for 10 minutes. If it doesn't hold then I pressure test as to where to find it.
Vacuum tool isn't that pricy.
$300 is fair to pretty cheap though as long as he's using...
Whole motor has to come apart....that's an Asian motor of some king, maybe a Suzuki.
I'd just grind it in place and tig it the best you can....maybe reinforce it with a plate of some kind then take it out and try to have it fly off...better off without I hate to say.
