Clymers says that after removing the one nut in upper gearcase housing & the one nut in the lower gearcase housing (after pulling prop shaft bearing cage) you can separate the upper gearcase housing from the lower.
I'm replacing seals & want to separate the housings to make it easier to pull...
Project boat; took it out after replacing deck with plywood but before fiberglassing the replacement decking - all was good.
After a layer of 4 oz CSM fiberglass and resin, plus two layers of gelcoat, took it out and got wicked cavitation especially while towing a tube with 1 adult and on the...
Replacing stator on Force 507X7C. Got new part from marineengines.com - part 300-888793. New part has 8 wire pairs, including heavy yellow wires with connector on end. Original part is 300-F658095.
I think i can match the old solid blue to the new brown/blue, and the old yellow/green to the...
1987 bayliner capri restoration; 3 coats of gelcoat, let each one cure a few days, third coat had wax - but the deck has lots of sticky areas that seem like they haven't cured. Grrrrrr.
First coat done using HVLP gun, what a hassle; 2nd and 3rd coats done with roller and tipping brush.
Fresh...
After completely rebuilding decks on 1985 14 ft Bayliner Capri BR, I'm not sure how to finish the decks. Won't do carpet like original - many posts already advising against just resin & carpet.
I can put down 2 layers of 1.5 oz CSM & poly resin for waterproofing & strength. Or, I think I...
I'm new to boat/fiberglass repairing but thanks to the many awesome posts on this forum and elsewhere things have been going well. I'll be posting some project/pictures soon, but hit a situation when doing my first layer of 1.5 oz CSM on the underside of replacement deck and needs some...