Recent content by Candy Gramformongo

With an old-school analog ignition system, I would jumper from the battery to the positive terminal of the coil, with a wire with alligator clips on each end. That should get spark, then work backwards until you isolate the break. Not sure if you can do that with your more modern system.

You might look at using a "retaining compound." Loctite retaining compounds. There are a lot of different ones to pick from.

Try divide and conquer. Undo the aft end hyd. rod nuts. Raise and lower drive by hand. See if sound is still there or not. If not, extend and retract rods, listening. Eventually the sound source will be located and its seriousness determined.

I just did my gimbal bearing and had the same problem. My alignment was “firm” after. What allowed me to get the drive all the way back in was to wobble the alignment tool hard in all directions, so the alignment was then silky smooth instead of firm. The drive then just slipped right in. I...

It's like a surgeon closing up and forgetting to remove a piece of gauze. Very bad for the patient, but you think you got away with it? It is a dilemma in your case whether to reopen and retrieve the gadget or just go with it because everything seems to be working.

Oh, yeah, correct. An ORB fitting. You won't find one of those at Home Depot.

... or a Speedi-Sleeve.

Yes. For carbs, about 5 psi. For fuel injection, more like 50 psi. But you could just look up the part number off the pump and see what the spec is, to verify it is correct. You are right to question everything, given the dodgy fuel line connection you found.

Your question is confusing. The thing you are calling the "carburetor inlet fitting," is that the line from the fuel tank? Assuming yes, you can make up practically any combination of connections that you like with couplers you can find at home centers, auto parts places, hardware stores, and...

I don't think anything is locked up. He said the drive spun freely in neutral and solidly went ("locked") into forward and reverse. That was my understanding, anyway. So the suggestion of PB Blaster, a strap to turn the crank, and preoiling with the distributor shaft are probably unnecessary...

Sounds like a awesome project. If it was put up in 2006 with fuel in the tank, then the tank will have to be removed and cleaned out, and all the old hoses replaced. Don't just put in some gas to see what happens. If you want to try to start it before then, use a temporary tank with fresh gas...

Thank you for that very helpful information. It appears the hook as a drive support in transit was a thing they did for a few years in the 70's, then decided it was not a great idea after all. By today's standards it is not a good idea, and it won't be easy to find a replacement. That's...

Thanks for your attention to my problem. Is your advice based more on theory or do you remember what the steel hook was intended to be used for back in the 70's? The "ground truth" is this hook came with the boat, and at least the prior owner and I have been using it to backup the rams in...

So you don't remember a hook being used back in the '70's? Or later but with drives sold in the '70's? If you didn't already, please look at the photos in my original post link. (For some reason I can't add them here, sorry.) I'm just trying to do the right thing. If the right thing is not...

I assume they do as long as there is not a leak somewhere, and the hook is a mechanical back up? The boat came with this hook when I bought it a couple of years ago. Was this not standard equipment and usage back in the day? I know later models did not come with a lifting loop.