Recent content by bruceb58

For trailer disc brake EoH units, they typically run at 1,600 PSI https://www.southwestwheel.com/p-6491-dexter-dx1600-model-1600-psi-electric-over-hydraulic-for-disc-brakes-k71-651-00.aspx...

That's what I did on one trailer I had. The other trailer had a welded on actuator so I bolted that one. Grade 5 5/8"

Aux power. The brake line itself is just going to the controller board inside the EoH unit. VERY low current. I have a Anderson connector I mount at my rear bumper. On my F-150 I used 6 AWG wire. On my new GMC 2500HD Denali I ran 2 AWG but it is also used for other things. On my Rivian, it's...

Agreed, spinning the wheel gave no indication of how bad the bearing was on this trailer.

You need a cable that can supply up to 30A so most 7 pin connectors can't supply this unless it has a 10 AWG wire. On my Ford F150, I had a separate power connector that supplied the voltage to the EoH unit.

I bought a used pontoon boat and trailer(6 years old). At the time I was new to the EZ lube so I did the pump the grease in method and it looked good coming out. Fortunately, I decided to just pull the hubs anyway and found the inner bearing completely rusty. Glad I didn't drive any significant...

I have EoH on my boat trailer. It is a stand alone unit. I put a Bolt through the coupler to keep it from moving as well as getting rid of the surge brake master cylinder. I have the Titan EoH on this trailer On a travel trailer that I just sold, I had the Kodiak calipers and a Dexter EOH. I...

LOL...you dunk your trailer twice a year! I use the Lisle packer that Trailer Smith uses. No grit is getting in there unless you aren't very smart and then you should really bring it to someone. There are many other places where it's even more critical for cleanliness when working on a boat...

I understand that. Do not use the LAZ-Lube system. It also sounds like you are relying on that system to actually pack your bearings which is a horrible mistake. There is a trailer guy called Trailer Smith on YouTube. He NEVER recommends using that system. He does trailer repair for a living.

Hand pack the bearings...don't use the zerk. When installing new bearings, remove all the grease, clean the hubs and hand pack ONLY!

I got tired of the temporary fixes and bit the bullet and bought new assemblies for the Lexus I used to own. I bought OEM assemblies and they were over $500 each and I had to take the bumper off to do it.

Not sure what you can actually get off the ECU scanning that old of a motor. You can call Rinda and ask them. I own the Rinda Diacam. Well worth the money for my use case. https://www.rinda.com/

My last trailer was a Forest River product. The decals got so bad on the front after just two years, I removed them with an airpowered decal removal wheel. On my new Nash trailer, I may be making a snap in cover to protect the nose of this one.

Glad my new Nash has real exterior grade plywood on the roof.

My friend's Rockwood Mini Lite that is not very old and has torsion axles...bent frame! I will never buy a trailer with a Lippert frame. His trailer is basically worthless unless it's parked somewhere to never move again. I posted that link about torsion axles on here before. Not a fan!