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I have some heads that came off the parts 140. One head is good and the other has damage from a ring getting broken and beat up. So I doubt I can run that one.
This one cant trim high enough to venitlate. Like I say it'll definitely throw a decent rooster tail trimmed up, but I never feel the prop ventilate/cavitate. And It definitely trims up enough to make a good difference when on plane cause i can feel it lift the bow when trimming up, but not...
I originally had the 1 3/8 carbs. Original to the 1978. And i just could not get them to act right. Very poor off-idle bogging no matter how many times i went through them. Once you finally managed to get it up into rpm it ran strong. I swapped on the 1983-84 140hp carbs and those being the 1...
Well like I say I doubt the engine is making what its supposed to given the smaller carbs and different heads.
I assume the jackplate was likey on there do to a bigger outboard being on their at some point that would achieve those speeds.
I don't think its a hook hull? Id have to check...
So info.
Boat is a 1990 Cajun paul Elias edition.
18' 6" long × 88" beam. Everything i find shows its a 1,200 lb bare boat. The boat appears very dry always kept under cover as far as I can tell and doesn't leak so i don't believe theres any water logging going on. Its got 2 group 27 lead acid...
So just an update. The motor was never quite getting full throttle. The bracket responsible for holding the throttle linkages and by that i mean the vertical shaft that meshes gears with the twist throttle. Was loose on the block. Screws loose and was missing one all together. I didn't notice...
So I reconnected the positive wire for the rectifier. Normally it joins into the engine harness. Into the red wire that feeds the trigger box. A constant 12v. Instead of connecting it to the harness there like the factory was. I ran the 12v from the rectifier to the stud on the starter...
So I replaced that wire however I didn't wire it into the harness constant 12. I ran the wire from the back of the regulator to the big lead coming into the starter solenoid. That should be all right ?
Gotcha. So disconnect the stator. I haven't ran it yet since repairing the wiring.
I really don't feel like pulling the fly wheel to get at that stator, but I might try pulling the wires back and just putting some heat shrink on them and replacing that charge wire back into the harness. See...
Well the crappy wiring finally bit me. All I did before it was put some liquid electrical tape on the stuff and let it go. Took it out today and twice it just died on me and wouldn't restart. Both times it was spark. Floated it back on the trailer and brought it home. I put this off thinking I...
Yeah I have it. Its kinda loose on the bypass port side. Also. Is the hose supposed to go to the bottom or top bypass port? Its currently going to the top port and I noticed they noticed the cowl to get at the screws to install the fuel pump as it's currently on the lower bypass cover.
It's got a newer what I'm guessing is an Amazon fuel pump on it. But no I haven't looked into it. It appeared to pump okay when I had the carb off and I spun it over. But like I say when I had it on the water it would act like it would starve out and I had to prime the bulb for it to pick back up.
