You are using an out of date browser. It may not display this or other websites correctly.
You should upgrade or use an
alternative browser.
-
B
I put the front piece back in. I ended up putting 1/2" plywood strips from leftover deck material behind the seams. I used PB and...
-
B
The originals were that way too. The surface is concave around the hole.
-
B
The bilge drain thru-hull fitting is polypropylene plastic and my understanding is 5200 doesn't adhere well to this. Would boatLIFE...
-
B
Installed the rear eye bolts. Turns out there was still some leftover 5200 in the holes that was creating most of the resistance. Once I...
-
B
I'm putting the eye bolts back into the rear hull and the fit is very tight (I have to use a hammer to force them in). When applying the...
-
B
Here is the stern. Still have to hit the corners where the blocks are currently. I'll do that once I move it back to the trailer...
-
B
Lots happening over the last week. I bought a drill eraser wheel to remove the "Crownline" decals on both sides and the multiple...
-
B
One tip I saw on youtube to pass along. To remove the various stickers and decals I used a heat shrink gun to soften up the material and...
-
B
Finished all the hull patching. The spectrum color patch paste was really good to work with and I got my technique down after a while. I...
-
B
Manged to get the boat on blocks yesterday. The trailer has bunks so getting it enough forward to get the rear blocks in place was...
-
B
I like this. Where did you place the rear blocks? Seems like you'd need to be away from the centerline to get stability with the 3 points.
-
B
Gelcoat patch kit from Spectrum Color came in and I started working on the hull. I've probably got 60-ish bad spots that I've used the...