'84 150 hp, lower unit question

[ksboater]

I'm dropping the gearcase on my '84 150hp rude. I've read several posts on here about disconnecting the shift rod below the bottom carb. My question is how do you get to the pin on the top of the shift rod. Do I have to remove the air silencer and the bottom carb, or is there an easier way to get to it.<br /><br />Thanks, <br />big tator

 

[OBJ]

Re: '84 150 hp, lower unit question

You can get to it from the port side of the engine tator. Shift into forward (I think it's forward) to get the yoke all the way down. A 1/4" drive set with a universal joint works well. It's a 3/8" head on the shift rod screw. A piece of masking tape in the socket head will hold the screw in the socket. You don't have to remove nothing to do this.

 

[rodbolt]

Re: '84 150 hp, lower unit question

dont drop the lock washer on some of the crossfow motors if the lock washer is not there the pin goes to far and interferes on the other side. dont ask how I know

 

[ksboater]

Re: '84 150 hp, lower unit question

Thanks guys, I got the pin out just before dinner. It sure made dinner better. There is a small plate under the bottom carb (air entrance), made out of cowling material that looks like it is just there for air deflection. It only has three bolts in it. I took it off, and it made getting to the pin alot easier. <br /><br />OBJ, it was easier to reach when it was in reverse, that pushed the pin forward. <br /><br />I'm sure I'm looking at a major overhaul on this motor. Never done one before, but since I don't have much money in the motor, I thought I'd give it a try. The motor hasn't run for over a year and it's "froze up" I thought among other things, when I dropped the gearcase, I'd be able to replace the water pump and tell what was "froze", I pulled the spark plugs out and thought I should be able to turn the flywheel by hand if the powerhead was ok. it doesn't turn. I'm also thinking if the lowerend is ok, with it off I should be able to turn the driveshaft by hand, it doesn't turn either.<br /><br />Is my thinking correct or am I all wet before I even get the boat in the water. <br /><br />Thanks again,<br />Big tater

 

[ob]

Re: '84 150 hp, lower unit question

Are you saying that with the lower unit off that the engine will not turn over with the plugs removed,and also the lower unit driveshaft will not rotate? <br /><br />The driveshaft will have some resistance to free and easy rotation because it also drives a rather tight fitting rubber impeller.You should however be able to turn it easily with a small strap wrench or a stern grip.If not ,there is likely a mechanical or corrosion issue within the gearcase.

 

[R.Johnson]

Re: '84 150 hp, lower unit question

Has that motor been under water by chance?

 

[dajohnson53]

Re: '84 150 hp, lower unit question

Originally posted by OBJ:<br /> A piece of masking tape in the socket head will hold the screw in the socket. You don't have to remove nothing to do this.

Can you describe in idiot proof detail how to use the piece of masking tape to hold the bolt/nut in a socket? These are the sort of tricks I am really ignorant about, and the type of stuff that can make a HUGE difference in getting a little project done. THANKS.

 

[ksboater]

Re: '84 150 hp, lower unit question

Yeah OB, that's what I was saying. But after reading your post, I did get the lower unit to work, so it seems its ok, but the powerhead is toast. I took the heads off and the #4 piston is melted. It seems odd, because #2 & #6 look brand new. I'm guessing some sort of water blockage to that piston??? At this point I guess my only options are to remove the powerhead and buy a replacement or tear down the one I've got and see if it can be bored down and go with oversize pistons. Done that kind of work on single cylinder motorcycles but never a boat, but after looking around on this forum, buying a new powerhead looks to expensive. About $2000 -$2600. Does that sound right.

 

[ob]

Re: '84 150 hp, lower unit question

You'll just need to see if the #4 bore and any others can clean up to an oversize.Make sure whoever does the machine work has done outboards and understands the tolerances for the finished work.I'm guessing that #4 May have been the result of a lean carburetor issue.You'll surely want to have all of them cleaned and kitted as part of a refurbish.Good luck and keep posting.Some of the pros can offer more insight into your rebuid.<br /><br />Hey D. , If I read OBJ right ,he is refering to lightly placing a piece of masking or electrical tape over the face of a socket and sqeezing it down over a hex head of a bolt or nut.This decreases the inside dimension of the socket and will retain the bolt or nut in a tight place and keep you from dropping it.Works pretty good too.Must be an old powerplant trick eh OBJ ? Them plant managers get twitchy when someone drops a bolt down one of the turbine extraction lines the night before firing the boiler after a major.

 

[ksboater]

Re: '84 150 hp, lower unit question

Thanks OB, I can't believe how much I've learned about boat motors from you and some of the other guys on this forum. I was checking to see what length shaft my motor is. I looked at the schematic for model numbers on this site, and mine doesn't show up. The model number is E150ANCRS. So it is a 1984 150 hp, but the AN doesn't show up, it should have a L, Y, X, or Z. Do you know where on the motor I can measure to determine what the shaft length is. And for probably a really dumb question, what does it matter what the shaft length is, other than if I'm trying to buy a replacement

 

[ksboater]

Re: '84 150 hp, lower unit question

OB, by a lean carburator problem, are you saying the #4 cylinder wasn't getting enough fuel, so it wasn't getting enough lubrication and that's what caused the burn up of the piston. If that's the case wouldn't #3 be in the same shape. The motor has three carbs, so I'm assuming #4 & #3 run on the same carb. Thanks again for the help

 

[perchdog2003]

Re: '84 150 hp, lower unit question

I have 88 225, the easiest way i found is to drop lower cowling, 3 long bolts 2 pins pull apart, done. unlimited access from below

 

[ksboater]

Re: '84 150 hp, lower unit question

Hey perchdog, from what point to what point do you measure it.

 

[ob]

Re: '84 150 hp, lower unit question

You can measure vertically from the bottom edge of the transom bracket that overhangs the top of the boats transom to the lower unit anti-ventilation plate. If you don't already know,the anti-ventilation plate runs the length of the lower unit just above the prop.<br /><br />Also check closely at that model number again.I can't figure that one out.<br /><br />The shaft length of a given motor corresponds to the transom height of a given boat.Some larger boats have taller transoms and deeper hulls and require a 25 in. shaft engine and others require shorter shaft engines.20 inches being a long shaft engine.The vertical placement of the engine is a critical part of each setup.In general terms ,you'd like the engine placed on the boat transom with the anti-ventilation plate roughly even with the boat bottom,and still have some holes for final placement adjustment pending the performance outcome of a water test.For best top speed ,you'd like to mount engine as high as possible without experiencing excessive prop ventilation while throttling up or executing tight turns on plane.Higher mounting also reduces drag and exhaust back pressure.Jackplates will afford even closer adjutment ,but that's another topic for another day till you get this thing running.

 

[ksboater]

Re: '84 150 hp, lower unit question

Thanks again OB, I'll go do the measure method, because I've checked and double checked the model number and its right. I've also found the same model number listed as a 84 at another site on the web, but it doesn't have an explanation for what the AN represents.<br /><br />Tater

 

[ksboater]

Re: '84 150 hp, lower unit question

The reason I'm asking about the the shaft length, after running the prices on pistons, bearings, bore, and probably carb kit & water pump, I'm considering buying a used motor and building one good one, but it has a 25" shaft.

 

[ksboater]

Re: '84 150 hp, lower unit question

OB<br />I still have the lower unit off. Couldn't I measure to the top of the water pump and then add some number of inches to that??

 

[ob]

Re: '84 150 hp, lower unit question

I found that model number as well on this site.<br /><br />ww3.kencook.com/evinrudejohnsonmanuals/<br /><br />I'll keep looking for a shaft lenghth on that one.Meanwhile,someone else like Paul Moir will be around to clear it all up.

 

[ob]

Re: '84 150 hp, lower unit question

Measure from the bottom of the transom bracket that overhangs to the horizontal joint that the lower bolts to.Then measure from the top of the removed lower unit to the anti-ventilation plate and add the two numbers.

 

[ob]

Re: '84 150 hp, lower unit question

If I'm not mistaken the N in the AN stands for counter rotating engine.These are manufactured for twin engine applications ,but will work for a single engine setup as well.Someone will correct me if I'm wrong.