1986 Johnson 30hp - Vacuum lines and throttle control rod

[Michael-Chgowiz]

Perhaps an issue with reed valves and / or crankcase compression??----Sorry, I can not see or touch your motor.---Just adding some things to check.

That's a pretty big issue there. I'll have to look at the manuals to see how to check all that.

 

[tphoyt]

When you did the carb do you recall seeing the nozzle gasket? If so did it go back in? If unsure you will see it on a parts page. Have seen a few of these over the years that people leave out thinking they aren’t important.

 

[Mc Tool]

Down under humor...someone pass the salt.

"Bart Simpson" actually

 

[Michael-Chgowiz]

When you did the carb do you recall seeing the nozzle gasket? If so did it go back in? If unsure you will see it on a parts page. Have seen a few of these over the years that people leave out thinking they aren’t important.

Good callout, I did make sure it was on. I'm using the one that came in the oem kit, so I'm assuming it's a good one.

 

[saltchuckmatt]

Good callout, I did make sure it was on. I'm using the one that came in the oem kit, so I'm assuming it's a good one.

Your terminology sometimes gets me...so let's double check a few things. Your low idle circuit screw, how many turns out is it? When you do the link and sync....the step of when the butterfly's open, that is supposed to be at the two notches on the timer plate...some have one.

You never want that to be on the right of those notches when staring at it from the front. On my 85, Evinrude service bulletin, you can be up to 1/2 inch to the left. They really want that timer plate moving first. That's also the low idle adjustment.

Can you confirm?

To check the reeds, hold your hand over the carbs and see if gas is spraying on your hand.

 

[tphoyt]

Well I it’s time to take a peek at the reeds. A some first test would be to put a pice a of paper in front of the carb while it’s running and see if it spiting fuel back at ya.

 

[Michael-Chgowiz]

Your terminology sometimes gets me...so let's double check a few things. Your low idle circuit screw, how many turns out is it? When you do the link and sync....the step of when the butterfly's open, that is supposed to be at the two notches on the timer plate...some have one.

You never want that to be on the right of those notches when staring at it from the front. On my 85, Evinrude service bulletin, you can be up to 1/2 inch to the left. They really want that timer plate moving first. That's also the low idle adjustment.

Can you confirm?

To check the reeds, hold your hand over the carbs and see if gas is spraying on your hand.

Sorry about that, just learning.
It's 1 1/2 turns out like the book said.
I have two dogears - notches - and according to the Seloc and Clymers, I should be right in the middle when I first see the throttle shaft move.
Edited: I went out and checked and the butterfly definitely starts to open noticeable when the roller is on the left dogear (looking at them). Is that something I should make move even further left?

I'll do that gas spray check tomorrow.

Thank you!

 

[Michael-Chgowiz]

Your terminology sometimes gets me...so let's double check a few things. Your low idle circuit screw, how many turns out is it? When you do the link and sync....the step of when the butterfly's open, that is supposed to be at the two notches on the timer plate...some have one.

You never want that to be on the right of those notches when staring at it from the front. On my 85, Evinrude service bulletin, you can be up to 1/2 inch to the left. They really want that timer plate moving first. That's also the low idle adjustment.

Can you confirm?

To check the reeds, hold your hand over the carbs and see if gas is spraying on your hand.

Well, I held a piece of paper in front of the throat and saw no spattering at various throttle speeds.

I also, on a suggestion from elsewhere, took the fuel pump off, put nuts on the two bolts to help hold the thing together and pumped the bulb. I didn't see any squirts out the hole that's open to the cylinder.

Someone earlier said "I can't see or touch your motor" and that's true, but on the offhand chance it helps ... I did a short video showing how it "idles", how much exhaust smoke happens when I speed up the throttle (while in neutral) and then when I go below the mid/start point on the throttle it just dies like I hit the kill switch.

Here's the link to the video (the video is playable, you just have to click the button to go to Youtube. I don't know why it's saying it's unavailable...) :

 

[saltchuckmatt]

Well, I held a piece of paper in front of the throat and saw no spattering at various throttle speeds.

I also, on a suggestion from elsewhere, took the fuel pump off, put nuts on the two bolts to help hold the thing together and pumped the bulb. I didn't see any squirts out the hole that's open to the cylinder.

Someone earlier said "I can't see or touch your motor" and that's true, but on the offhand chance it helps ... I did a short video showing how it "idles", how much exhaust smoke happens when I speed up the throttle (while in neutral) and then when I go below the mid/start point on the throttle it just dies like I hit the kill switch.

Here's the link to the video (the video is playable, you just have to click the button to go to Youtube. I don't know why it's saying it's unavailable...) :

Have you taken it to the lake?

 

[Michael-Chgowiz]

Have you taken it to the lake?

Not yet, was working on getting it up and running before I took it out. Still working on rewiring the boat.
Are you thinking that it might behave differently in the water?

 

[saltchuckmatt]

Not yet, was working on getting it up and running before I took it out. Still working on rewiring the boat.
Are you thinking that it might behave differently in the water?

Yes. Lots of work on the test stand at home is not all that good. Nice "balls out" run on the water does wonders.

Shakey but they do that...if anything is catching underneath the flywheel than that simple 4 inch round plastic bushing needs replacing.

I'd run it on the lake first but before you go maybe run some carbon tuner down it.

 

[Michael-Chgowiz]

Yes. Lots of work on the test stand at home is not all that good. Nice "balls out" run on the water does wonders.

Shakey but they do that...if anything is catching underneath the flywheel than that simple 4 inch round plastic bushing needs replacing.

I'd run it on the lake first but before you go maybe run some carbon tuner down it.

Worth a shot. I probably won't be able to do that till mid-Sept, but I'll let you know how it goes. Thanks!