How do I safely remove anti-siphon and intake line?

[TXGlastron]

Hi all. I have been able to remove the fuel line clamp, pull the old fuel line off, and even unscrew the anti-siphon valve. But this square head is my nemesis right now. I want to get it off and check my intake line and filter for clogging. How do I safely remove this? Is it just muscle, or is there a thread seal on this as well? This part is new to me. Thank you.

 

[bajaman123]

Terrible picture...
So are you saying you have removed the hose and hose barb and now are just trying to get the 90 degree fitting (the "square head") off? Typically these are brass, and will have some sort of thread sealer on them. Liberal application of Break Free, PB Blaster, Kroil, etc is indicated. Then find an open end wrench that fits the square tightly. After letting the penetrating oil work, rock the fitting back and forth with the wrench...should free up pretty easily.

 

[TXGlastron]

Agreed, terrible picture. But you are correct on your assumption. I have removed the fuel line from the barbed anti-siphon. The square head is what is left right now. I didn’t want to just start cranking on it and break something. After I break it free, is it best to purchase a new one? I.e. are these crush threads on the brass? Really appreciate any hints before I start muscling it and ruin the tank.

 

[alldodge]

The antisiphone valves are cheap, and just replace it
Normally made of aluminum so next to no chance of sparks with tools on the hex head.

 

[TXGlastron]

Here is the non-zoomed in version of the picture.

 

[TXGlastron]

The antisiphone valves are cheap, and just replace it
Normally made of aluminum so next to no chance of sparks with tools on the hex head.

Perfect, thank you! I’m perfectly capable of dumb choices. I don’t mind asking before leaping now.

 

[TXGlastron]

Terrible picture...
So are you saying you have removed the hose and hose barb and now are just trying to get the 90 degree fitting (the "square head") off? Typically these are brass, and will have some sort of thread sealer on them. Liberal application of Break Free, PB Blaster, Kroil, etc is indicated. Then find an open end wrench that fits the square tightly. After letting the penetrating oil work, rock the fitting back and forth with the wrench...should free up pretty easily.

Perfect, thank you. I’ve proven myself to be fully capable of poor decisions. I’m now much more cautious as I learn about boat maintenance.

 

[Lou C]

You want to put a thin wrench on that hex fitting that’s on top of the tank to hold it steady when removing the pick up tube. I was able to get mine out & it was in a 38 year old aluminum tank. Go easy on it, take your time..IIRC they are NPT threads.

 

[Bt Doctur]

when/if you manage to remove it ,remove the pickup tube from the fitting.It just unscrews the same way. look inside the tube and you may see a SS stent inside the tube, It simply pull out

 

[Lou C]

I searched around on other boating websites as well (esp The Hull Truth) and the consensus is to get rid of that screen. My original pick-up tube and the one I replaced it with didn't have screens. The only drawback to this (as long as you have a proper water separating fuel filter) is that your anti siphon valve could get clogged by debris due to having no screen. But typically, those are easier to replace than the pick-up tube.
BTW, all anti siphon valves are not created equal, one style is for engines under 200 hp the other is for those over 200 hp according to Moeller. The problems you can have with them are clogging and also the cheap ones can rust up and stick. The OEM OMC Evinrude/Johnson ones I have used are of good quality.