2003 Mercury 200hp Saltwater edition 2 cycle, can the oiler be deleted?

[fishbait2]

I have a 2003 Mercury 200 hp Saltwater edition. It is a carbureted Motor. Can the oil pump be removed and a delete kit installed? Premix 50:1 than after. I have heard that it would not get proper oil to the crank and other parts of the motor through the Bleed system. Plus normal start up with the oiler is 100:1 then goes to 50:1 as it has more throttle. Heard that it will create carbon build up on the piston rings that could make them stick and score the cylinders. Just trying to stop an oiler break down and destroy the motor if I don't delete the oiler on a 23 year old motor.

 

[racerone]

You have listened to wrong information !----And you do not understand what the bleed system does.-----And no it does NOT start at 100:1

 

[Dukedog]

I have a 2003 Mercury 200 hp Saltwater edition. It is a carbureted Motor. Can the oil pump be removed and a delete kit installed? Premix 50:1 than after. I have heard that it would not get proper oil to the crank and other parts of the motor through the Bleed system. Plus normal start up with the oiler is 100:1 then goes to 50:1 as it has more throttle. Heard that it will create carbon build up on the piston rings that could make them stick and score the cylinders. Just trying to stop an oiler break down and destroy the motor if I don't delete the oiler on a 23 year old motor.

yes, it can... like racer says, tha bleed stuff has absolutely nothin' ta do with tha oiler............

*justa note.. if you know tha history of tha motor and it has "never" been over heated and its (oiler) still workin' properly then no reason ta delete.. if ya don't know 'bout tha motor then yeah, delete it.............JMO.

 

[fishbait2]

You have listened to wrong information !----And you do not understand what the bleed system does.-----And no it does NOT start at 100:1

I had called Mercury and that is what they told me. The 100:1 was at idle then increases to 50:1 at higher speeds. If not true please help me out and share the correct information as I have no idea. They told me if the oiler stops I would get alarms and to only basically idle back to dock. Also was a good idea for protection to mix the boat tank oil to 100:1 as a back up to the oiler failing if it made me feel as ease. I don't like having to depend on the oiler as it would be a rebuild or new powerhead and I can't go that route in retirement. So I am hoping I can delete the oiler within a year or less. The motor has very good compression and lower hours as it sat for years and was brought back by a marina professionally. Its been run for a few years on another boat. I just look at the cylinder bores and they are perfect condition. Doesn't make sense that Mercury would put a plastic gear on a such an important part of the motor. And it doesn't make sense to me to depend on such a destructive part and 20 years old plastic. But I am searching information why I should keep it also? The boat I purchased had a 89 Merc 175hp that I am repowering with 2003 and it had it happen to it. The motor had to have a new power head. They removed the oiler after that and it is still running with no worries of that part failing but I just don't know how a 2003 will do deleting the oiler. That is what I would really like to know? Please share about the bleed system and problems of removal or not of the oiler? The motor was run until last August and had a 4 stroke replace it so it runs ok at this point. I am having everything put back on as factory at this point and going from there. Does the oiler slowly fail of just blow apart from the crank? Any information as much appreciated.

 

[Dukedog]

racer may be wrong on this one..
"Operation of the Oil Injection System The oil injection system delivers oil mixture on engine demand, from 100 to 1 at idle to 50 to 1 at wide open throttle."

tha big "gear on tha crank stripped/melted" both problems are usually caused by some type of overheat history.. but some jus wear out also.. thats why i aksed if you know tha history of tha motor.... again, if you do not, then it would be recommended ta DELETE tha oiler entirely and pre-mix...............

its actually a "composite", not plastic.... and agreed, "Doesn't make sense that Mercury would put a plastic gear on a such an important part of the motor and it doesn't make sense to me and to KEEP IT for 23 years!.....

 

[dingbat]

Ran a 1989 175 hp Merc on a boat I owned for 4 years. Put over 1,400 hours on the motor.

Lost the high speed stator 20 miles out. Came home at 1400 rpm which took sometime.
The only other issue I had was the cap on the engine mounted oil tank. It cracked and blew off while leaving the inlet one Sunday morning. Blew oil all over the inside of the cover. Got back to the dock with a sandwich bag and a rubber band as a cap.

Personally, I wouldn’t own a motor w/o a working oiling system. I burn way too much fuel (92 gallon tank) to be mixing by hand. It’s a lot easier to just top off the fuel and oil tanks in the morning and call it good.

Here is some information on the “plastic gear” used in the oiling system.

Nylon 6 (polycaprolactam) is a strong, highly elastic, and versatile semi-crystalline engineering thermoplastic known for its high tensile strength, excellent abrasion resistance, and toughness. It features a melting point around 218–220°C, high thermal stability, and good chemical resistance to alkalis and organic chemicals


Here is an explanation on the oiling system.

https://continuouswave.com/whaler/reference/mercuryOilInjection.html

 

[racerone]

???----Post states---" normal start-up is a 100:1 "-----And I say it starts with what ever mixture is in the carburetors.----There is no ECU that decides 100:1 on initial start!----Technicality I know.-----It is important for owner to understand / learn how this motor works.----Saves money.

 

[Texasmark]

racer may be wrong on this one..
"Operation of the Oil Injection System The oil injection system delivers oil mixture on engine demand, from 100 to 1 at idle to 50 to 1 at wide open throttle."

tha big "gear on tha crank stripped/melted" both problems are usually caused by some type of overheat history.. but some jus wear out also.. thats why i aksed if you know tha history of tha motor.... again, if you do not, then it would be recommended ta DELETE tha oiler entirely and pre-mix...............

its actually a "composite", not plastic.... and agreed, "Doesn't make sense that Mercury would put a plastic gear on a such an important part of the motor and it doesn't make sense to me and to KEEP IT for 23 years!.....

I have had the same type of OEM oiler on 90 and 115 HP Mercs. Only difference is the posted range for these engines is 90 at idle to 50 at WOT.
The gears in lower powered engines were made of Phenolic, a fabric reinforced material with an epoxy binder. As I recall, the 300 cubic inch Ford I6 in my truck at the time had a Phenolic gear that ran the cam driving chain.....I was impressed that Ford thought enough about that material to use it in their production engines that drove lots of Ford trucks. Don't remember the mileage on the truck at the time but the gear didn't show much if any wear.....must have had a lot of miles or I wouldn't be taking it apart!

With that said, I had a 2002 90 HP that one day I decided to remove it and go with pre-mix. Never had a problem. Later on I sold that rig as I wanted a bigger boat for bigger water and bought another with a 115 4 cyl. and left it in. All I did was to remove the pump, pull out the drive gear-shaft, reinstall the pump, left what oil there was in the oil tank on the engine, ensure I had premix in my fuel tank, and wrote a note adjacent to the fuel filler to only use premix.

 

[racerone]

The Ford engine does not go from 600 to 6000RPM very often.----The outboard does when waterskiing or just playing.----Nor does the ford need to run at 5500RPM all day long.

 

[Dukedog]

???----Post states---" normal start-up is a 100:1 "-----And I say it starts with what ever mixture is in the carburetors.----There is no ECU that decides 100:1 on initial start!----Technicality I know.-----It is important for owner to understand / learn how this motor works.----Saves money.

tamatoes, tamotoes.... off course it gonna start with what evers in it....

tha ecu has absolutely nothin' ta do with tha oiler.. nothin'g else on tha motor except tha linkage (which is tha only thing that determines what ratio its gonna get) and pluse that keeps tha main tank full are tha only things that do involve tha oiler....

 

[racerone]

I stated that there is no ECU on the motor.----Motor starts /runs on the mix ratio that is in the carburetors!

 

[boscoe99]

You have listened to wrong information !----And you do not understand what the bleed system does.-----And no it does NOT start at 100:1

Like underwear for old folks, it depends.

If the motor has been idling prior to shut down then the ratio of oil would have been 100/1. Then at next start the gas/oil ratio would be 100/1.

Now if the motor was running at say wide open throttle at a gas/oil ratio of 50/1 and then shut down, then at the next start the gas/oil ratio would be 50/1.

Is it a bleed system or an injection system?

 

[boscoe99]

I stated that there is no ECU on the motor.----Motor starts /runs on the mix ratio that is in the carburetors!

Which depends upon the amount of oil that has been injected into the gasoline supply by the variable output oil pump.

 

[boscoe99]

 

[Dukedog]

boy! you cats are strange.............................. "fence post anyone?"

 

[Dukedog]

Is it a bleed system or an injection system?

injection.... bleed is removing puddling/excess fuel... mostly at idle and/or lower rpm.

 

[Texasmark]

The Ford engine does not go from 600 to 6000RPM very often.----The outboard does when waterskiing or just playing.----Nor does the ford need to run at 5500RPM all day long.

Along the same lines, TC-W3 oil is made for "Two Cycle - Watercraft, 3rd iteration (upgrade)". Regular "non-rated as such" oil is made for two cycle (stroke in today's terms) engines like you would use on your "weed eater" or "chain saw". Two completely different requirements for an oil's properties. That's not me talking I read that somewhere.....comments from either an OEM equipment mfgr., or an oil company employee...analyst......but I totally agree.

 

[fishbait2]

Like underwear for old folks, it depends.

If the motor has been idling prior to shut down then the ratio of oil would have been 100/1. Then at next start the gas/oil ratio would be 100/1.

Now if the motor was running at say wide open throttle at a gas/oil ratio of 50/1 and then shut down, then at the next start the gas/oil ratio would be 50/1.

Is it a bleed system or an injection system?

Bleed

 

[Dukedog]

Bleed

see post #14...................