1991 mercury 60hp clutch problems?

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Evinrudej

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Dec 18, 2020
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So today I drained and refilled my lower unit while waiting for parts for another project. Noticed some amounts of metal shavings, not major like shards just more like tiny flakes and only a few. I then tested to see if my clutch was fully engaging. I put the motor in forward full throttle and when i turn the prop with my hand instead of turning the crank in the engine the prop feel as though the clutch is popping in and out of gear. When I go into reverse and turn I am able to turn spin the crank shaft in the engine just fine. This boat has very Low hours on it I can confirm. gear oil was not milky from last time I replaced it. Boat sat for many years unused. Shifter on engine out of alignment maybe and if so how to adjust?? thanks everyone on hear
 
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Evinrudej

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racerone said:
???-----Very normal and exactly the way it left the factory.----In forward the prop ratchets when turned clockwise.----It locks when turned counterclockwise!
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So it’s supposed to ratchet when turned clockwise? it locks fine when turned counter clockwise.
 
Texasmark

Texasmark

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Evinrudej said:
So it’s supposed to ratchet when turned clockwise? it locks fine when turned counter clockwise.
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That's the "overrun clutch" functioning. The rear of F gear is configured in a saw tooth configuration where R is vertical sided slots and cogs. Any time the engine is in F gear and is going slower than the prop is turning....you are on plane and slow down to do something is when this is needed. The overrun function essentially unhooks the prop from the powerhead. When you give it the gas, the vertical sides of that saw tooth engage and the powerhead is married to the prop. This slip clutch apparatus keeps your teeth out of your windshield on decent.
 
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Evinrudej

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Texasmark said:
That's the "overrun clutch" functioning. The rear of F gear is configured in a saw tooth configuration where R is vertical sided slots and cogs. Any time the engine is in F gear and is going slower than the prop is turning....you are on plane and slow down to do something is when this is needed. The overrun function essentially unhooks the prop from the powerhead. When you give it the gas, the vertical sides of that saw tooth engage and the powerhead is married to the prop. This slip clutch apparatus keeps your teeth out of your windshield on decent.
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Ah I see I thought it acted like the older style clutch dogs. Also quick question when installing thermostat on these motors does it have to be positioned a certain way when installing I forgot to check mine when I removed it.
 
Texasmark

Texasmark

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The pellet part of the stat operates it. Therefore the pellet needs to be in the medium you wish to monitor...inside the water chamber.
 
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Evinrudej

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Texasmark said:
The pellet part of the stat operates it. Therefore the pellet needs to be in the medium you wish to monitor...inside the water chamber.
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Got it thanks. Well I replaced my therostat and rebuilt poppet valve. After idling on muffs for a while the head seems to get hot. I a, only able to hold a finger on it for a second before it gets to hot. The water comin from the tell is cold?
 
Texasmark

Texasmark

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The tell tale water being cold is normal when the engine isn't running. Engine isn't producing exhaust which heats the tell tale water. If you are on the hose and the engine is just idling, the water may be colder than the minimum exhaust flow/vs water flow can heat it up.

140F, even 125 can feel very hot...think about a domestic water heater in the home.....normal setting on the thermostat is right at 140F and you can't hold your hand under the hot water only in your house. In my house I keep the stat on low (130F) and I can't leave my hand under hot water only.

A non-contact Infrared thermometer could tell you how hot your block actually is. Harbor Freight has them for less than 30 bucks and you will find numerous uses for it once you have one, especially in the winter when you have things that may be ready to freeze. Before you get to worrying too much, and to put your mind at ease, get one and monitor the block temperature. If it's less than 195F, recalling the closing temperature of the over temp. circuit, you are ok in waiting for the stat to open.

There is a 5* tolerance usually on the stats functioning temp plus you have to give it time for the cooling water to circulate, plus if you are on the hose that's cold temp this time of the year and the stat, if working properly, will open and close as it opens and inrush water cools the block and it closes etc. etc.
 
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Evinrudej

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Dec 18, 2020
Messages
150
Texasmark said:
The tell tale water being cold is normal when the engine isn't running. Engine isn't producing exhaust which heats the tell tale water. If you are on the hose and the engine is just idling, the water may be colder than the minimum exhaust flow/vs water flow can heat it up.

140F, even 125 can feel very hot...think about a domestic water heater in the home.....normal setting on the thermostat is right at 140F and you can't hold your hand under the hot water only in your house. In my house I keep the stat on low (130F) and I can't leave my hand under hot water only.

A non-contact Infrared thermometer could tell you how hot your block actually is. Harbor Freight has them for less than 30 bucks and you will find numerous uses for it once you have one, especially in the winter when you have things that may be ready to freeze. Before you get to worrying too much, and to put your mind at ease, get one and monitor the block temperature. If it's less than 195F, recalling the closing temperature of the over temp. circuit, you are ok in waiting for the stat to open.

There is a 5* tolerance usually on the stats functioning temp plus you have to give it time for the cooling water to circulate, plus if you are on the hose that's cold temp this time of the year and the stat, if working properly, will open and close as it opens and inrush water cools the block and it closes etc. etc.
Click to expand...
Ya I was definitely planning to get one and measure the temperatures of each cylinder while letting it idle on the muffs with a hose. Water is definitely cold from hose this time of year so I wouldn’t be surprised if thermostat is even opening even if the block feels hot. Thank you will update with results
 
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