1989 Bayliner Trophy OMC 5.8L - Help with new boat

[LakeMichiganBoater]

So the engine is back in and we took it out for a few hours on lake Michigan and it ran amazing. Took some tuning to the shift cable on the dock. Every test I did on land showed it shifted fine, but once in the water it would only shift into reverse. I made some adjustments to the shift lever and got it shifting fine. There seems to be a very narrow margin where it will correctly shift into forward and reverse.

That being said, after running it for a few hours in open water we idled back into the harbor (15 mins of idle) shifted into reverse by the launch and it would not go back into forward, no matter what adjustments I made. Ended up paddling it into the launch. What could cause it to all of a sudden not shift into forward gears after a full day?

Shifter moves freely, but won't engage forward.

Thanks!

 

[Scott Danforth]

New cables

 

[LakeMichiganBoater]

New cables

The cables all move freely, checked that when I had the outdrive off. They still move freely with everything on and connected. Just not engaging forward gears.

 

[Lou C]

This is a 2 cable system & for it to work there are 3 separate adjustments:
1) shift rod adjustment in the lower unit with the drive off
2) also with the drive off, the transom shift cable adjustment; this requires 2 special tools; one to hold the shift bell crank @ 90* to the pivot housing, the other sets the length of the cable up on the engine shift bellcrank.
3) remote cable from the remote control to the engine shift bellcrank.

The basic idea is to get equal throw on either side of neutral when shifting from N to FWD and from N to REV. If any of the above adjustments are off you won’t get equal travel one way or the other. So it goes into FWD & not REV or vice versa, or it grinds going into either gear.

 

[Scott Danforth]

The cables all move freely, checked that when I had the outdrive off. They still move freely with everything on and connected. Just not engaging forward gears.

Cables wear. They last about 15 years. Yours are 35 years old. Because of them being worn, you are loosing travel

 

[LakeMichiganBoater]

This is a 2 cable system & for it to work there are 3 separate adjustments:
1) shift rod adjustment in the lower unit with the drive off
2) also with the drive off, the transom shift cable adjustment; this requires 2 special tools; one to hold the shift bell crank @ 90* to the pivot housing, the other sets the length of the cable up on the engine shift bellcrank.
3) remote cable from the remote control to the engine shift bellcrank.

The basic idea is to get equal throw on either side of neutral when shifting from N to FWD and from N to REV. If any of the above adjustments are off you won’t get equal travel one way or the other. So it goes into FWD & not REV or vice versa, or it grinds going into either gear.

So #1 I set to the required height (top of shift rod to top of lower casing, I think 7.21" if I remember correctly.

#2 I used the tools to set it to required position in the transom and on the engine.

I think #3 is where I need to focus now.

I guess it just surprised me that it could be set and functioning correctly and then a few hours later not be functioning correctly without any adjustments. Was wondering if that indicated other issues. For now I will focus on #3.

 

[LakeMichiganBoater]

Cables wear. They last about 15 years. Yours are 35 years old. Because of them being worn, you are loosing travel

If it comes to this, where is the best place to get replacement cables? There are 100s on Amazon that are cheap... but I would like to get better ones.

 

[kenny nunez]

Post a picture of your current cables.
The shift cable from the control box must travel 3” from full forward to full reverse.

 

[Lou C]

Ok here’s what can go wrong with the Cobra adjustments:
#1, basically can’t change
#2, if the cable gets sticky or crud builds up behind the shifter bellcrank you might not get full shift throw. When you set the transom shift cable you first measure cable drag by disconnecting it at both ends & measuring with a fish scale, no more than 2.5 lbs drag. If you keep the drive down the cable lasts longer because the jacket won’t crack & let water in which corroded the cable. Leaving the drive all the way up puts stress on the cable jacket which eventually cracks & lets in water.
#3 the adjustment can just slip if the nut isn’t tight.
I would use only an OEM cable even it it costs more. Always measure cable drag before doing the adjustment.

 

[Lou C]

For OEM cables see if this site sells them.

 

[Scott Danforth]

If it comes to this, where is the best place to get replacement cables?

your dealer, or right here https://www.iboats.com/shop/boat-en...eering/boat-controls/boat-control-cables.html

 

[Lou C]

There are a few tests to see if you are getting full throw in FWD and REV. After you do the adjustment, with the KEY OUT, get a helper to work the shifter for you. Go to the back of boat and spin the prop while the helper shifts into FWD, it should lock firmly in FWD. Do the same for REV. If it doesn't lock in firmly, you don't have full travel in that direction.
A properly shifting Cobra should go into gear with a solid THUNK not a grrrr CLUNK....

 

[LakeMichiganBoater]

Is there anyway to know what length the cable is before I pull it out?

Would like to get the new cable ordered, but I cant get to the boat for another week.

 

[LakeMichiganBoater]

There are a few tests to see if you are getting full throw in FWD and REV. After you do the adjustment, with the KEY OUT, get a helper to work the shifter for you. Go to the back of boat and spin the prop while the helper shifts into FWD, it should lock firmly in FWD. Do the same for REV. If it doesn't lock in firmly, you don't have full travel in that direction.
A properly shifting Cobra should go into gear with a solid THUNK not a grrrr CLUNK....

I tried this and it checked out.... but I think I need to be on the prop side... not the shifter side to really feel it.

I plan to replace the shifter cable, just need to locate a decent one. I have seen a few lying around the boat... makes me think the previous owner had purchased bad ones that were not working.

 

[KamelRed408]

Hey BUD so I'm currently having the same issues.

Here is a link to OMC oem manual. They are second hand . I got mine for $40 look around

1989 OMC Cobra Stern Drives 4-6-8 Cylinder Service Manual , P/N 507759 | eBay

<p dir="ltr" style="margin-top:0; margin-bottom:0;">1989 OMC Cobra Stern Drives 4-6-8 Cylinder Service Manual , P/N 507759</p>

www.ebay.com

As for the shift cable

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00027H0K4?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details

IS AFTERMARKET BUT OEM QUALITY

Otherwise I think I saw oem for few hundred each


Double check the special tools you are using for the adjustment. I got a set in a cheap install kit and it was garbage . The bell wasn't set at 90. A simple ruler and 2 people is more accurate imo. If you do get a quality tool make sure u use the washers and nuts to hold in place and triple check with a ruler 90 degree is being held.

The first tool I got for the lower shift cable adjustment at engine bracket ..wants you to set it at 6inch and the 2nd was 6.5 inch so again triple check your alignment tools and follow w.e the oem manual says.



You are looking for about 68 inch long wire. I'll post some oem pics for adjustment to for you

 

[KamelRed408]

Hope this helps bud

 

[Lou C]

I tried this and it checked out.... but I think I need to be on the prop side... not the shifter side to really feel it.

I plan to replace the shifter cable, just need to locate a decent one. I have seen a few lying around the boat... makes me think the previous owner had purchased bad ones that were not working.

Yes you need to be on the prop side make sure the keys are out of the ignition first! You will be able to feel if it locks in Fwd & Rev that way.
The best way to get the right cable is to use the model number. These were on a sticker on the engine valve cover or thermostat housing.

 

[Lou C]

PS those instructions are basically what I followed but I used the OMC tools that were not yet made when those manuals were published. I have an OEM 1988 Manual and the pix & procedures are basically the same.
The typical problems are:
cable jacket cracks, lets in water, cable gets sticky
gasket between pivot housing and drive not sealed properly, water leaks in and leaves deposits, makes bell crank in the pivot housing get sticky
ESA switches and module last a long time but can fail, I had to change mine when it was 26 years old.
Engine tune up, and throttle cable adjustment....you want that engine idling at no more than 600 rpm, and it should be able to momentarily drop to 450 rpm when the ESA interrupt switch is triggered without stalling. The engine should return to idle reliably, if the cable has to much slack the idle can drift up to 700-750 rpm and you will feel the shifting get stiffer then.
Yearly pull the drive at the end of the season, check the bellows, u joints and gimble bearing and make sure the pocket where the bell crank lives is cleaned out and packed with OMC triple guard grease. When reinstalling the drive coat the mating surfaces on the pivot housing and drive with OMC gasket sealer and coat the gasket on both sides with the same.

Doing this, I have kept mine shifting well, for over 20 years, and it is a moored in salt water (6 month season) boat. That's about the most severe usage there is for a sterndrive boat. It can be done, as long as you carefully follow the steps and then maintain it as I've done. And, I am just a shade tree mechanic not a professional by any means.

What a salt water drive looks like after 20 seasons in the brine with antifouling paint.
Freshwater guys, you got it EASY!

 

[LakeMichiganBoater]

As for the shift cable

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00027H0K4?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details

IS AFTERMARKET BUT OEM QUALITY

Otherwise I think I saw oem for few hundred each

That's actually the shift cable I ordered. Not $200+ OEM and not $30 garbage. That company makes a lot of aftermarket boat parts (fuel filters are that also I think...)

 

[Renken2000Classic]

Where's your Cobra decals? (lol). Form follows function...