91 four winns 285 winterizing question

estame6

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Can anyone suggest how to winterize a hot water tank that doesn't have a drain ****. This is a new boat to me, it has an Attwood EHM6-SM which is a fairly standard hot water tank and am not quite sure how to winterize it. I intended to run red pop thru it but normally like to empty it first or will take too much AF. Any suggestion would be appreciated.
 

alldodge

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Just looked the manual up and it shows a drain (item 7) in the manual. Its its not there look for a plug. I winterize my HW tank by draining and then connect a short piece of hose between the inlet and out put of tank. This way you need much less AF

That said, I also don't use AF in my water system. I connect a compressor air line to the inlet boat fitting, set between 25 and 40 psi and blow all the water out when I'm changing oil

https://www.wanderlodgeownersgroup.com/downloads/Atwood Electric Water Heater.pdf
 

estame6

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Thanks, will look for a plug there certainly isn't a fitting there like I'm use too and can't see not having a drain either.
I'm nervous about the compressed air not knowing how it by-passes the water pump in the out-drive.
 

alldodge

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The water system from the drive is not connected to the HW heater.

There can be a connection between the engine block and the HW heater to warm the water, but I'm talking about the fresh water which comes from the holding tank or shore connection

Post a pic so we can see
 

estame6

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The compressed air, does that take care of the hot water tank?
Taking that picture and it's such close quarters and cell phone didn't do a good job, will try something different.
 

estame6

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Thanks, the tank is so hard to see and finally with use or mirrors and a spot light finally found a small brass drain plug and of course I cant reach it. Will ask my friend to loan me his 6 year old to climb down there. (tongue in cheek) cant believe installing a hot water heater in this position.
After draining the tank do you suggest blowing out the water with compressed air from the transom tap fitting and then from the faucets which should take care of the lines?
 

alldodge

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Could blow everything out first. I run the water pump until it will not shut off. Then disconnect the hose coming from the 12V pump and blow from there. After no more water comes out (only air), then finish draining the tank.

You could probably blow when the hose fitting, I just never have
 

alldodge

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Suggest after getting the plug out, put a barbed fitting back in and run a piece of hose out where you can get at it next time
 

estame6

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Finally found a 7/16 brass fitting and got the hot water tank emptied. I had emptied the fresh water tank and put 2 gal of glycol red pop and ran it through the cold water taps and also saw red pop coming out of the h/w tank coming from the cold side. Using an external water pump, pumped red pop through the external water hook up and just opened the hot taps and saw red pop again coming out of the h/w tank coming from the hot side. Hoping that's covered all water pipes, let you know next year. ; -)
 

alldodge

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A trick you can use to use less AF is disconnect the 2 lines on the tank and connect them together. This way no AF is needed in the HW tank
 

estame6

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Thanks, that is a good idea, my problem is that I can only get one hand near the tank. I have no clue how they expect you to service it. Spring project is to move it about a foot, there is lots of room, they just decided to mount it right out of the way up beside a bulkhead.
 

Lou C

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Boat manufactures must have a real sadistic streak. Most modern I/O boats I would not even consider buying because on some of them you have to pull the engine to replace a starter or steering actuator. They care more about features like walk thru transoms and rear facing fold up seats than the buyer or mechanic actually being able to fix common problems without spending a fortune. And starters are common problems as are steering actuators (especially on Volvo Penta). Hence why outboard boats are becoming more and more popular.
 

estame6

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I had mentioned on another post about how to get to the lower bolts of the flywheel housing. Please don't tell me I have to pull the engines.
 

alldodge

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I had mentioned on another post about how to get to the lower bolts of the flywheel housing. Please don't tell me I have to pull the engines.
Which lower bolts?
The ones on the dust cover/shield or others?
 

estame6

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I thinking the ones that button the inner and outer transom mounts.
btw didn't see much on crowley's about the bolts arrangement.
The transom was inspected when winterized and doesn't appear to be getting soft, using the pin ball test appears to be solid.
 

alldodge

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I think your talking about the transom assembly bolts, behind the flywheel housing. If so then no, unable to get to them
 

Lou C

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On some boats with a wide open engine compartment and single engine you may be able to access them, on a twin engine boat the inner ones will be just about impossible to reach unless you have a flex head ratcheting box head wrench.
Another job that's a real treat is replacing the steering actuator, the hydraulic rams start to leak, or on the older style Bendix ones the control valve leaks, I had do do mine over the summer. Wound up pulling off both exhaust manifolds to get access. Not fun but got it done.
Here's my spare transom mount, see the 3 studs on each side, these go through the transom and the inner transom mount slides over them, nuts tighten both to the transom.
 

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  • Spare Cobra transom mount.jpg
    Spare Cobra transom mount.jpg
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estame6

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Informative picture Lou C. Thanks. I know poking around I'm having a hard time seeing them. Wondering if there are any views anywhere showing where these nuts are located.

Your mention "just about impossible to reach unless you have a flex head ratcheting box head wrench" I have a few of these and few mechanics that are willing to get down there but still need to know where there are and what there hidden behind.

Many thanks for your help...
 
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