Should I purchase a 60HP 1969 Johnson hydro-electric shift outboard motor?

[racerone]

I think you need to do a complete , very complete evaluation of this motor BEFORE spending any money for parts.----Where is it ( location ) that this is the best deal you can find ?

 

[Wesley35601]

So the air silencer is actually included, the current owner took it off thinking all this needed was a carb tuneup. I’m going to order a bite camera and see if I can maybe find any rust in the lower unit. Unfortunately the bottom screw was missing. I know I’ll definitely need the new harness, it’s about $250 for the cdi brand, OEM is $180, but I’ll likely upgrade to all cdi brand anyway. So do you think it’s worth it? I haven’t been able to find anything newer or better for less than $5,000 here. I’d love a Yamaha, but it’s about $6000 from where I’m looking. Maybe the seller would be willing to sell to me extremely cheap like maybe $100.

 

[Wesley35601]

I’ve found a few other motors around $1000 but they have to be sold with the boat and I just can’t do that. Some others are available but they are too big. I can only use a 60hp on my Polarkraft boat. I’m located in Decatur Alabama 35601. I’m willing to drive up to 200miles if needed. But that’s worst case scenario.

 

[F_R]

I thought you were on a $300 budget target. That is why I was trying to discourage you. If you are now considering $1000 or more, maybe it is worth taking a chance. If you are not thinking of spending the baby's milk money, that is..
It's still chancy, since you have a lot to learn. Good luck.

 

[Wesley35601]

Thanks, I won’t be spending $1,000 on a motor. What I might do is offer the seller $100, take the other $200 to make my Chrysler watertight and running, then sell the Chrysler for a lot and use that money to fix the Johnson. That’s reliant upon the seller selling it that cheap though. I’m just not in a position to buy an expensive motor right now. Maybe a new harness and one screw is all that Johnson needs to run. I know it actually needs more than that, but I’m not sure. I’ll talk to the seller and go from there.

 

[F_R]

I could find out if that motor will at least start, run, and shift without spending any money on it. Or at least diagnose why it won't start, run, and shift. No, Ill take that back, you'll have to fill the lower unit with oil to see if it will shift. But you can do that with cheap ATF oil from the Dollar Store, just for testing only.

If it will start, run and shift, then is the time to consider all the incidentals that it may need.

You might consider hard-wiring it if you get that far.

 

[Wesley35601]

Update: I went ahead and took my chances by buying this motor. I paid $235 and it came with a supposed dead battery that is actually a good battery which is a plus. I can post any pictures requested if it helps diagnose any issues. I plan to start by just tearing the old wiring harness out and seeing what electrical wise needs replacement. That and I’ll rebuild the carbs and the seals and impeller in the lower unit. Anyone know where I can find the model number on this unit? I hope it’s not missing.

 

[Brokenback]

Update: I went ahead and took my chances by buying this motor. I paid $235 and it came with a supposed dead battery that is actually a good battery which is a plus. I can post any pictures requested if it helps diagnose any issues. I plan to start by just tearing the old wiring harness out and seeing what electrical wise needs replacement. That and I’ll rebuild the carbs and the seals and impeller in the lower unit. Anyone know where I can find the model number on this unit? I hope it’s not missing.

I have repaired owned and dealt with the same line of engines for yrs. also I just purchased a older 63 Electra shift 40 hp the shift solenoid are similar but use bat+ to change shift direction. Hydra shifts like yours transfer fluid pressure to shift. still very similar to yours Very dependable engine. Simple to repair if you understand the technology. I also have a couple lower ends for the hydra shift 55 and 60 no if their still in my parts shed. The 50hp Electra shift has a different drive shaft spline. Almost all the parts I've needed were found on ebay.. Any questions you have I'll be happy to help. Enjoy hearing from a young person eager to learn save money and take on a older project.

 

[racerone]

The shifting on the old ELECTRAMATIC is totally different from the hydro-electric shift units.----The electramatic uses electromagnets to pull on a spring , no clutch dog.-----The hydro-electric use solenoids to operate valves , to direct oil pressure on a shift piston.----The shift piston moves a clutch dog.

 

[Brokenback]

The shifting on the old ELECTRAMATIC is totally different from the hydro-electric shift units.----The electramatic uses electromagnets to pull on a spring , no clutch dog.-----The hydro-electric use solenoids to operate valves , to direct oil pressure on a shift piston.----The shift piston moves a clutch dog.

Exactly!! However similar that the shift switches add and removes b+ to operate the magnets on the Electra and the hydro changes the B+ to change fluid pressure flow to engage dogs. Simple process. The shifters are not interchangeable!

 

[racerone]

But the HYDRO -ELECTRIC does NOT need battery power when in forward gear.-----The clutch dog spring puts them in forward.-----The electramatic needs 12 volts to stay in forward all the time.

 

[ahicks]

Regarding the question to purchase an electric shift, even one that works, WHY?

Unless there's something unusual going on with a particular engine (an emotional attachment for instance), there's too many easy to service/maintain mechanical shifting motors around for me to even consider an electric.

 

[racerone]

But the hydro-electrics are so simple and reliable in my opinion.

 

[Brokenback]

But the HYDRO -ELECTRIC does NOT need battery power when in forward gear.-----The clutch dog spring puts them in forward.-----The electramatic needs 12 volts to stay in forward all the time.

Yes. They stay engaged in forward until power is applied to switch between neutral and reverse. My older neighbor didnt refill his lower unit few yrs back tried to back off trailer lol took a few rams of his trailer crank before realizing he needed to call me..No damage done but wishing had a video of him. Very confused..

Brokenback said:


I have repaired owned and dealt with the same line of engines for yrs. also I just purchased a older 63 Electra shift 40 hp the shift solenoid are similar but use bat+ to change shift direction. Hydra shifts like yours transfer fluid pressure to shift. still very similar to yours Very dependable engine. Simple to repair if you understand the technology. I also have a couple lower ends for the hydra shift 55 and 60 no if their still in my parts shed. The 50hp Electra shift has a different drive shaft spline. Almost all the parts I've needed were found on ebay.. Any questions you have I'll be happy to help. Enjoy hearing from a young person eager to learn save money and take on a older project.

I had 99% blockage of my arteries in my heart opened up now but will be few days before I can get home and out to look for my lower ends..

ahicks said:


Regarding the question to purchase an electric shift, even one that works, WHY?

Unless there's something unusual going on with a particular engine (an emotional attachment for instance), there's too many easy to service/maintain mechanical shifting motors around for me to even consider an electric.

In my case I enjoy keeping any old mechanical thing going anyone can buy a new one takes a speacial desire to enjoy rebuilding old.. Especially at the age of Wesley 35601. To take the task on..

 

[JimS123]

Regarding the question to purchase an electric shift, even one that works, WHY?

Unless there's something unusual going on with a particular engine (an emotional attachment for instance), there's too many easy to service/maintain mechanical shifting motors around for me to even consider an electric.

I agree 100%. And that's after owning 2 of the blasted things.

My personal experience would indicate that they are NOT that reliable. The worst part is that repairing them are outside my wheelhouse, and finding a mechanic to work on them was nearly impossible. And that was years ago. Today, I bet there are few mechanics left that have a clue.

 

[ahicks]

I've owned them as well. AND I've worked on several. Both GOOD reasons I'll never own or even agree to work on another....

 

[racerone]

They are quite simple.------Very few complaints like on other motors with shift cables not adjusted properly.

 

[82rude]

I had a 1968 55hp Johnson looper and she ran flawlessly until the early 90,s when I sold her still in perfect running condition!

 

[racerone]

The early triples had issues with piston skirts breaking.---Solve with installation of those thick walled pistons.--They were an impressive performing motor.

 

[RBoyd1971]

My opinion on the motor is it looks pretty good for it's age. If it was thoroughly cleaned, would look real nice. I don't understand why some of these old motors, the wiring falls apart like that. I've seen some that the wire were like new and others, you touch it and the insulation crumbles. Then there is the rodent issue. Anyhow, I think you did pretty good if it has good compression. Looks like a low hour motor to me. I'd paid that for it for sure, but I ain't hurting for money right now either. I like to take the old motors and bring them back to their former glory. Just be patient when working on it. Sometimes it pays to do more thinking than yanking stuff apart, especially if it won't come apart easily.