1988 BlueFin Sportsman... project.. where do I start?

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fixittt

I am the new owner of this 1988 bluefin sportsman. Owner said the floor was replaced recently.

I put water in it and noticed a very small drip from a rear rivet under the middle trailer roller. Should I be alarmed?

It has barnacle's on the bottom, how can they be removed? I plan on doing a light reno on the boat if the small drip can be fixed.




 
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Maybe I was too basic. I know from research rivets can be sealed from inside with Gluvit and outside with jb weld. I can try that.

Would more pictures help? Barnacle's can be removed with any Lime calcium cleaner. I see a few on the market.

What do these bring in value?
 

Scott Danforth

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re-buck the rivet with two people and two hammers
 
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I just picked up a 1988 bluefin sportsman, for a heck of a deal from what my uncle thinks. The boat was recently in the water until the motor was pulled for repair. What should I do with the boat? How hard is carpeting around the edge of the boat? I would like to inspect the transom, I am very new to use. I put water in the boat and only had one small tiny drip from a rivet by the middle roller on trailer.

Thoughts and help is appreciated.





the floor is solid, carpeting and marine plywood were replaced recently.
 

jbcurt00

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The Bluefin specific forum doesnt get much foot traffic so better off here in the resto forum where you started the 1st topic

They have been merged
 
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Is there anything from local hardware stores that will remove barnacles. muriatic acid is too dangerous.

Recommendations ?? I have heard mixed reviews on barnacle buster. Some people say vinegar?
 
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Does anyone have feedback on the boat itself? I read a lot and came to conclusion manual removal of barnacles is best.
 

Baylinerchuck

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Good looking boat. I’m sorry I don’t have much input on aluminum boats or barnacles. Just stopped in to say :yo:
 

Scott Danforth

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yes, re-bucking is as simple as holding a big hammer on one end and using a smaller hammer on the other end to smack it.

however a re-bucking tool would be used to protect the shape of the head of the rivet. usually a small leak doesnt need too much to get it to stop.
 
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Thank you guys! It may be in a tough spot to reach on the inside of the boat, I will see what happens.

How does one go about recarpeting the edge of the boat? Do I buy one piece the length of the boat then cut it?

There is many screw holes drilled into the aluminum where windscreen mounts from over the years and where bimini top was, do they have to be plugged or can I simply carpet over them?

What are your thoughts on gutting consoles and making simpler ones?
 

GSPLures

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You probably have to buy the carpet in one piece I have never seen strips of carpet although I may be wrong. For the holes if they are not needed anymore you can always pop rivets in them, I used rivets for holes not needed in my 14ft aluminum.
 

havoc_squad

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Thank you guys! It may be in a tough spot to reach on the inside of the boat, I will see what happens.

How does one go about recarpeting the edge of the boat? Do I buy one piece the length of the boat then cut it?

You have to buy one complete roll and make well planned cuts at the critical spots to get around corners or bends. I do recommend you watch a sample of a few "good" youtube videos covering the process, think about it well, then ask follow-up questions here and get them answered before you start doing it.


There is many screw holes drilled into the aluminum where windscreen mounts from over the years and where bimini top was, do they have to be plugged or can I simply carpet over them?

Depends on how big the holes are, how many are them, how close are they together (material strength), and whether the holes are surfaced to prevent rubbing on the carpet you put on. Knowing the limits of material strength and the proper dose of common sense helps on this part.

What are your thoughts on gutting consoles and making simpler ones?

If you EVER plan to sell the boat and get any reasonable resale value from it, the changes better look better than before AND closely look like they fit/match the boat (more factory look).

There's a difference between replacing console switches/gauges that are discontinued or changing worn out jump seats to single swivel seats versus radical changes. Restoration usually preserves or adds value, modification usually destroys it or does not add value.

I love it how people go all out in custom modding these aluminum boats to something like a center console and everything looks off or not original. Then they get tired of it or need the money to sell it, and everyone gives them rock bottom below NADA private party value for it and they either can't believe it or get offended.

A good example is often times I see some old ski boats with some wild boat graphic wrap on it. Try selling that on the open market with skulls and flames to get close to fair market value out of that boat, not gonna happen.

Buyers hate changes that ruin the boat/automobile/house value and they will have the power over you to say "no thanks" or "that is overpriced".
 
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BWR1953

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...I love it how people go all out in custom modding these aluminum boats to something like a center console and everything looks off or not original. Then they get tired of it or need the money to sell it, and everyone gives them rock bottom below NADA private party value for it and they either can't believe it or get offended.

A good example is often times I see some old ski boats with some wild boat graphic wrap on it. Try selling that on the open market with skulls and flames to get close to fair market value out of that boat, not gonna happen.

Buyers hate changes that ruin the boat/automobile/house value and they will have the power over you to say "no thanks" or "that is overpriced".
Yup. And then the seller gets offended because he thinks that HIS changes absolutely MUST be liked by everyone and should add value! Uh, no. :rolleyes:
 

Fishcall1570

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Pvillefball421 It looks like you have a nice project here. I am about to start a restoration of a 1983 16ft bluefin that has been in the woods for the past 30 years and appreciate being able to go through a restoration at the same time as someone else. I know there are lots of reno/resto threads on here and an overwhelming amount of knowledge/ information. I still am trying to search/ find all of the previous threads before posting "new to me" questions that have long been answered elsewhere in iBOATS.

Unless the carpet retailer you plan on purchasing from allows you to dig through his scrap pile and purchase leftovers, you will have to buy it off the roll. I know you asked specifically about the carpeting around the edge, but I wager that you will want to freshen up the rest of the carpeting at the same time so everything looks on par aesthetically. I plan on using card board, or a roll of paper from a craft store (like the rolls teachers use to cover bulletin boards) to create templates of everything that I need to re-cover. That way I can lay out my puzzle pieces and get the most economic size of carpet possible.

I also am well aware that my restoration will likely be more involved than yours, because it sounds like you have had a few recent repairs/ upgrades.

Best of luck!
 
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Pvillefball421 It looks like you have a nice project here. I am about to start a restoration of a 1983 16ft bluefin that has been in the woods for the past 30 years and appreciate being able to go through a restoration at the same time as someone else. I know there are lots of reno/resto threads on here and an overwhelming amount of knowledge/ information. I still am trying to search/ find all of the previous threads before posting "new to me" questions that have long been answered elsewhere in iBOATS.

Unless the carpet retailer you plan on purchasing from allows you to dig through his scrap pile and purchase leftovers, you will have to buy it off the roll. I know you asked specifically about the carpeting around the edge, but I wager that you will want to freshen up the rest of the carpeting at the same time so everything looks on par aesthetically. I plan on using card board, or a roll of paper from a craft store (like the rolls teachers use to cover bulletin boards) to create templates of everything that I need to re-cover. That way I can lay out my puzzle pieces and get the most economic size of carpet possible.

I also am well aware that my restoration will likely be more involved than yours, because it sounds like you have had a few recent repairs/ upgrades.

Best of luck!

Thank you! I am still unsure what to do, it is beginning to get cold in new york. I have no idea what glue to use to do the carpet. I want to do some carpeting in the bow and looking for used cushions to put down.

I got lucky with the new floor, I can see its fresh wood with a sticker barcode on it. I will report what type of wood it is, I have no idea what he laid down. I am still thinking of refreshing the consoles, I might just add some 90 degree brackets for structure support.

I also have random piece that need to be carpeted. I guess I could make some fun out of it. How do I cover the boat during the winter? I feel lost
 
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does anyone know what kind of motor can be used on this boat? for example a 40hp 1965 evinrude big twin?

Its a short shaft motor.
 

Fishcall1570

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Do you have garage space for it or is it an outside only kid of project? I am lucky enough to have ample workspace in my Dad's garage, but it is not insulated or heated. We will eventually run into temp concerns as well when it comes to the glue/paint/epoxy parts of our restoration. For now we are just in the assess-demo-assess phase. Also, I hate to suggest delay, but if you are limited to outside only and can't confirm you will have the curing temps needed for the specified time, then maybe the carpet is a spring project? It would be a little awkward to put the effort into new carpet just in time to winterize it.

For covering, I would make a small (saw horse style) frame to throw a larger tarp over. The frame should give you enough support and slope for runoff. I would ensure the tarp has grommets so I could pass a line through and cinch it tight below the rail. That should get you through the winter as long as you check on it before/after weather and keep snow loads minimal.
 
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Do you have garage space for it or is it an outside only kid of project? I am lucky enough to have ample workspace in my Dad's garage, but it is not insulated or heated. We will eventually run into temp concerns as well when it comes to the glue/paint/epoxy parts of our restoration. For now we are just in the assess-demo-assess phase. Also, I hate to suggest delay, but if you are limited to outside only and can't confirm you will have the curing temps needed for the specified time, then maybe the carpet is a spring project? It would be a little awkward to put the effort into new carpet just in time to winterize it.

For covering, I would make a small (saw horse style) frame to throw a larger tarp over. The frame should give you enough support and slope for runoff. I would ensure the tarp has grommets so I could pass a line through and cinch it tight below the rail. That should get you through the winter as long as you check on it before/after weather and keep snow loads minimal.

Thank you, I am stuck with an outside only project. I have it on marketplace and 3 people came to look and lost interest. I am still unsure what I am doing with it. I don't think my motor will fit and maybe I will sell and then start fresh next season. I paid about $350 for boat and trailer with papers.

part of me wants to at least spruce it up to flip as a pretty looking thing. How should I go about removing barnacles? the bases are left on the boat, the guy looks to have scraped off the actual barnacle. I have seen chemicals but don't want to etch the aluminum.

I would probably wait to do the carpet, i am interested in making bow seats with plywood, foam, and marine vinyl. I bet an easy fix and would like nice. I found someone giving away bad weather carpet mats, with rubber backing, i thought maybe I can use on boat?

would a 2200 psi power washer remove barnacles?
 
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Fishcall1570

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Pvillefball421 BLUFF:
Barnacle Issue- Try a test area: Soak a dollar store wash cloth in white vinegar. Apply to DRY barnacles. Let it sit for a few hours, but don't let it dry out. Then hit them with a stiff plastic brush and/or that pressure washer of your. Warm vinegar works technically works faster.

Bow Seats: Be careful what grade/ quality of plywood you use. I have seen threads where (after time) the chemicals in regular plywood corroded holes through the transom sheeting.

I do not know if the left over barnacle rings are on bare or painted areas of the aluminum, but I understand not wanting to etch or otherwise discolor the aluminum with commercial acids/ cleaners. They do make cleaners specifically for aluminum so you wouldn't have to worry about ruining the metal. At the end of the day though, barnacle shells are just calcium carbonate (calcite). If you have time, and large amounts of vinegar, you can remove any remaining shells organically. The only risk here is turning your boat into a pickle. I use vinegar often on old fishing reels I find and it works wonders. I know you won't be able to find enough vinegar and a vat large enough to float the boat in though. The tough part of using vinegar is ensuring contact for a LONG time. If you can't flip the hull upside down, the cloth should increase contact time.
 
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