Use Of Polyester Resin On Wood - Don't Do It
I have been telling people not to use polyester resin for laminating wood for quite some time now. I won't even buy the stuff anymore myself but that's just me. I ran across this posting on the Florida Sportsman web page this morning and I really thought it would be of value to some of you guys. This fellows observation confirms my own experience. Here is what he had to say:<br /><br />"I remember a thread about poly resin and it bonding (or not) to wood awhile ago, so thought I'd post some observations from this weekend.<br />I was molding some parts for my Corvette over the weekend, and since the rest of the body is polyester I was using poly for these parts. It was the first time I'd vacuum bagged with poly. I used a wood form, and being a little lazy just used a barrier layer of bag film instead of the normal sealing and waxing of the form. I didn't make the bag film sheet quite large enough, and with the pressure from the bagging some resin creeped beyond the film to the uncovered part of the wood form and into the breather. After I separated the parts (when cured) I thought I'd see if I could get the extra resin off before making the next part, and much to my surprise it pulled loose easily by hand. I know from prior uses that getting epoxy off non-waxed areas is impossible. I was really quite surprised that the poly had made "no" bond to the wood form at all, not even under 15 inches of vacuum pressure (about 1000 psi).<br /><br />-Greg"<br /><br />Greg's experince with this cheap resin is consistant with my own. I have tried all manner of prep for the wood, different brands of polyester resin, thinned and not thinned, fast or slow setting (as a function of hardner ratio) all to no good effect. If you put this stuff on wood it will come off, no question about it. Do you want that for your own project boat? Not me.<br /><br />Thom