I think I decided on a boat. but have questions.

Stixx925

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So my search Continues. after doing some research I think I found the boat for me, now to find one. I want a Bayliner Capri 1750 or 1850 bowrider, with the mercruiser 3.0 I/O. For some reason those 3 particular years had great curve appeal. looks like a super car, those 3 years had Large swim decks as well and they do about 40 or so. Now to my question, is there a site that gives full detail on the different configs? IE out drive and motor brands and various sizes. in my search for this boat i seen mostly 2 configs, the 85hp force outboard and the 3.0 mercruiser 4cyl, then i ran into an odd one a 3 cylinder 90hp I/O. per owner. don't no make of motor though. thing that has driven my crazy in my search i gotta ask same question what make is motor and outdrive. having a detailed chart would help allot. i seen the one in some peoples sig but thats very general. i want more in depth info on the boats... thanks
 

JoLin

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I don't care what the ad says, the 3-cylinder, 90 hp model is gonna be an outboard, not an I/O. I'd shy away form anyhting with a "Force" nameplate. Shopping based solely on looks is not a good idea, particularly when you've automatically limited yourself to one of the least expensive, entry-level boats out there. Widen your horizons a bit, and start actually looking at boats in person.

If you're set on an I/O, make sure it's a Mercruiser or Volvo tied to a GM engine. No Ford engines, no OMC outdrives. Those are orphans- old designs no longer supported.Parts availability can be questionable.

Read the stickies at the top of the forum- there are guidelines on what to look for when you start your search for real. What's your price range? Where do you boat (lakes, rivers, coastel waters)? How many passengers? What ages? What will you use it for (day cruises, fishing, water sports)?

My .02
 

Scott Danforth

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So my search Continues.......I want a Bayliner Capri 1750 or 1850 bowrider, with the mercruiser 3.0 I/O.

You want a rotten hull project boat? Nearly every capri ever made has water logged foam and rotten stringers and transoms
 

tpenfield

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You want a rotten hull project boat? Nearly every Capri ever made has water logged foam and rotten stringers and transoms

I was also surprised that after doing research, the OP came up with a Bayliner. There is more to it than looks alone. Just something to keep in mind as you actually go see these boats.
 

Stixx925

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@ scott In my price range i dont think it its gonna matter what brand i get there all gonna have rot.

Tassie Its not gonna be a long term boat it is gonna be my first boat use it for a few seasons then upgrade. the answer to those Questions are about $1500-2000. I have both a River and 2 lakes near by, family boat for Fishing/swimming/skiing. 1 lake ban 2 strokes.

Ideally Id like a Reinell, Glastron, or Sea Ray 95+ bowrider.
 

Scott Danforth

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@ scott In my price range i dont think it its gonna matter what brand i get there all gonna have rot.

.

dont have that attitude. you just have to be patient. BTW, a bayliner with rot will be putting your family in harms way and require about $4k to make safe.

suggest you read the threads and links in the hull restoration forum before buying any boat.
 

Stixx925

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What I've been finding more often then not. Boats in my price range. Bad motor, has OMC, interior shredded, or visible rot...I'd assume bad interior comes with rot more often then not.

I've restored a few jetskis, though they probably arnt on the scale of a boat.... maybe I'm going into this thing blindly. And if some wants to take a look into some boats round here. Only requirements a 3.0 i/o. Open bow 17-18ft do to tow vehicle limitations. Sacramento, ca (150mile radius)

thanks for replays
 

MTboatguy

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Bayliner, not good!

I was surprised I purchased a cheap Glastron a few weeks ago, to get the trailer, so I tore it apart to get parts to use and sell and even through the interior was trash, there was no and I mean NO rot in that boat, transom was good, floor was good, seat bases were good, the boat had no rot in it at all, it would have been worth doing an interior restore on it and lasted a few years with no problem at all.

But I have never looked at a Bayliner in the last 30 years that didn't have rot in it.
 

Tassie 1

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Tassie Its not gonna be a long term boat it is gonna be my first boat use it for a few seasons then upgrade. the answer to those Questions are about $1500-2000. I have both a River and 2 lakes near by, family boat for Fishing/swimming/skiing. 1 lake ban 2 strokes.

Ideally Id like a Reinell, Glastron, or Sea Ray 95+ bowrider.

Oops
dunno whether that posted
my older brother ( 68 next jan ) has that bayliner/motor combo
he drives while his adult sons and other assorted hooligans wakeboard off it in the Murray river along the Vic /NSW border ( Australia )

they wish they had got the 4.3 donk as the 3 lt struggles a little with larger boofheads hanging off it,
he has had it about 10 yrs now,
hasn't mentioned any issues with known bayliner issues,
but then he is unlikely to tell me that anyway,
Lol
he did have a motor issue not long after buying it but l can't remember what now, nothing major though,
he really wanted it, drove across two states to get it,
l've never seen it in the flesh as l live interstate
it's only a xmas holiday boat usedat his caravan 300k's away...not used outside summer
 

southkogs

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I just took a stroll through the Sacramento Craigslist. My suggestion: save up another $1,000 and then look.

There were a couple of 16' outboards that would be worth looking at, but I'm not sure I'd recommend them to a newbie. I think if you got your buying price closer to $3,000 and looked at boats in that range, you have a better chance.
 

Stixx925

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Thanks for having a look see.

Out boards cant be any more difficult then working on a 2 stroke jetski motor, can they? It's just I live near lake Tahoe and they ban 2 stroke. So its gotta be an I/o. I found a boat 100miles away. Its not an attractive boat. It's a 1987 4winns 16ft, needs interior. It's got a 3.0 gm omc motor with a merc out drive. Not as pretty or stylish as the 90-93 capri, but I get what you all are saying. Price is ok and should serve my small family for a few years while avoiding luxury tax. First thing gotta do if I nab it up is put a stereo in it. From pics it looks like it don't have one.
 

southkogs

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I don't find outboards any much harder or easier than I/Os. I like 'em for some things and prefer I/Os for others.

Depending on the year boat you're looking at, make very certain it's a Mercruiser outdrive. You don't want the OMC outdrives, particularly if they're prior to '86. Condition is the key, and if you look at the boat and think "that'll be an easy project" - - expect it to NOT be an easy project. Frankly, if you can't start it and float it as it sits, you'll put more money into fixing it than you would saving up $4k and buying something lake ready.

Pickin's are slim out by you. I looked at a few different listings out as far as going to Las Vegas during my lunch. I couldn't find anything I'd suggest you go look at. I think you're gonna' have to up the budget a little.
 
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Stixx925

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Maclin Oh I know but not in my price range. Mostly on boats 2002+

southkogs pickings are slim. Hopefully the 4winns is a winner. Told the feller I need lots more pics befor I make the 100mile trek. He says it's an omc chevy, w/mercruiser outdrive. The engine cover has some rot. Interior is weathered. I can see from the pics I've seen so far. Told em I want a couple shots of engine,stern drive . In boat front to back, and back to front.lastly rot he spoke of.if I like what I see I'll go out and check it out in person.
 
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southkogs

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'87 OMC could be bad news. Generally speaking, new owners are advised to stay away from OMC at all. They've been out of business since the 90s and there are heaps of problems with various models. 1987 would be the first year for the Cobra, and honestly I don't know much about 'em. BUT ... it could also be boat that had one of last year's 1986 Stringers put into it. That's even more of a challenge for a new guy. The Stringers weren't all bad, but you need to understand what you're getting into when buying one.

I would advise staying with a boat that has a Merc or Volvo I/O.
 

Stixx925

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Confused now..... it b.c was said just stay away from omc out drives. Omc motors are ok as long as itsGM, well chevy is gm., if I shoot this guy down I'm gonna feel like an ass. If all is bad and I cant fix 3.o0cobra, couldn't I just swap the clock with a 3.0 mercruiser?maybe need to remake or move motor mounts or adjust..
 

briangcc

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I'd want to know exactly what is under the engine cover. Usually an OMC engine is coupled to an OMC drive. Hopefully the seller is totally confused as to what he's trying to sell and its a complete Merc setup. Otherwise...frankenstein which I wouldn't touch.
 

southkogs

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Most people will tell you to go with a chevy based engine. OMC, Merc and Volvo used them. The outdrive is what determines who's engine it is (unless you've got a franken-motor).

OMC, Volvo or Mercruiser can be tied to a Chevy block. For example, in the early 70s both the Mercruiser and OMC 165HP drives used a Chevy 250 inline 6 engine. But it wasn't a simple "swap-the-drive" if you wanted to convert from Merc to OMC or vice versa.

Someone else will have to tell you for sure if the OMC Cobra keyhole is the same as a Mercruiser so you could re-power. But if it's a Stringer, that's the only drive that'll go through that hole.
 

Stixx925

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I'll send the pictures when he sends them stand by a little till about 430p pacific. It GB looks to be a 4winns freedom 160
 
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