1982 90hp E90TLCNB gears not working

[Fitch89]

Hey everyone,

I'm new to boating and just picked up a used 16' Doral bow rider with a 1982 Evinrude 90HP outboard. It isn't engaging fully in either forward or reverse (in one or the other, I can feel it making contact with the gears but I can still spin the prop pretty freely and in the other direction I can feel very little). At first I was hoping that it was a cable problem. It turns out the cables are pretty well seized up so they do need replaced, but shifting it by hand doesn't seem to make a difference. Does anyone have any suggestions? I'm beginning to suspect the dog clutch but I'm surprised it's not really engaging at all if that's the issue. I'm dying to get out and enjoy the boat.

 

[Faztbullet]

Sounds like driveshaft snapped at pinion....

 

[Fitch89]

Sounds like driveshaft snapped at pinion....

Would it still be making some sort of contact with the gears if that were the case though, or would it just be spinning freely?

 

[racerone]

Drain / inspect the gear oil.-----If you select FORWARD does it lock turning the prop CCW and you are able to turn the prop clockwise ?

 

[heypawpaw]

Did you disconnect cables from shift lever before shifting by hand? After removing cables does the shift lever move to forward and reverse position as it should? If shift lever is hard to move between gears possible corrosion buildup on shift rod where it goes through exhaust housing grommet.

 

[Fitch89]

Drain / inspect the gear oil.-----If you select FORWARD does it lock turning the prop CCW and you are able to turn the prop clockwise ?

I'll have to confirm this on the weekend, but I believe that in forward, I can turn it clockwise and it kind of grinds CCW and will occasionally lock up. We just filled the lower unit oil, and it was empty when we got the boat. The drain plug had some small shavings (fuzz) on it but nothing large.

 

[Fitch89]

Did you disconnect cables from shift lever before shifting by hand? After removing cables does the shift lever move to forward and reverse position as it should? If shift lever is hard to move between gears possible corrosion buildup on shift rod where it goes through exhaust housing grommet.

Yes, cables were removed when trying to shift by hand. It seemed to be working as it should but did seem to loosen up a bit after moving it back and forth a bit.

 

[interalian]

DId you get a test ride on the water before buying? My '82 gear case locks the prop firmly to the prop F/R and it won't 'rachet' in either direction when in gear - that's a Merc thing.

 

[Fitch89]

No we didn’t test ride it, we paid $900 for boat, engine and trailer so it was definitely meant to be a project. The guy we bought it from said he bought it to restore but never got around to doing anything with it, and that he hadn’t run it in 3 years or so.

 

[Fitch89]

So what’s the easiest way to get a proper diagnosis this weekend so I can order the proper parts? Can I remove the bearing carrier and get a good look into the lower unit without have to remove the lower unit itself? Are there any easier less invasive tests I should be doing first?

 

[Bosunsmate]

Removing the lower unit is actually likely to be easier than removing the bearing carrier but it seems you will need to do both anyway.
You need to remove the LU as since it hasnt being maintained properly in years you will at least have to change the impellor on it.
While the LU if off you can attach a hose to the water intake in the exhaust mid section and then run the engine, that way you can check it all runs ok and so you wont have to wait for more parts for the engine after ordering your LU ones

 

[Bosunsmate]

These a good motors by the way. I rebuilt my friends one a few years ago while i was learning the basics of outboard mechanics, nothing more than a rough job but its kept going well. You just have to check they dont get hot.
The rubber deflectors in the heads can perish or expand which can cause overheating. Also there is a very small hole in the thermostat housing which causes serious issues if it blocks up. I drilled this hole to about double its size.
Once you've done this and tested the overheat alarms id almost go round the world in one

 

[Fitch89]

These a good motors by the way. I rebuilt my friends one a few years ago while i was learning the basics of outboard mechanics, nothing more than a rough job but its kept going well. You just have to check they dont get hot.
The rubber deflectors in the heads can perish or expand which can cause overheating. Also there is a very small hole in the thermostat housing which causes serious issues if it blocks up. I drilled this hole to about double its size.
Once you've done this and tested the overheat alarms id almost go round the world in one

Thanks for letting me know that it's a solid motor, makes it a little better knowing that I'm not throwing money/effort away on something that's junk. I got the bearing carrier out today, as well as the snap rings and thrust plate today. I though the prop shaft would pop right out after but it's still stuck? Is the bolt in front of the trim tab what's holding it in place, or is disengaging the shift rod and pulling the lower unit required?

 

[racerone]

Lower unit MUST be removed.----Drive shaft must be removed.----Shift rod must be removed.

 

[Fitch89]

So I've had this apart now and the pinion gear was toast. I've got a new gear set and I'm trying to install it. I can't seem to get the driveshaft out. I've removed the nut under the pinion gear and the water pump is off, but the driveshaft will only budge a few mm. Any help would be greatly appreciated! I'm trying to get this thing done tomorrow and am getting very discouraged!!!

 

[racerone]

Put the nut back on the shaft to protect the threads.----Screwdriver between nut and clutch dog.----Give propshaft a bump with hammer.