4 HP Seahorse Dry Plugs

WIMUSKY

Moderator
Staff member
Joined
Sep 26, 2009
Messages
20,609
Spraying a little fuel mixture in the cylinders takes 5 minutes. I wouldn't do anything else until you see if it fires.......
 

Canoe2

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Jul 22, 2012
Messages
136
What F_R said is the problem i had with the fuel pump - could not suck fuel into the carb. When I removed the fuel line, it would periodically periodically spray fuel from the connector, so i figure there must have been a blockage downstream someplace. Had similar thing happen on a 6 hp of about the same vintage that was a result of a blocked fuel line.
 

S.A. Baker

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Aug 9, 2015
Messages
227
Just squirt some premix in the carb throat with the throttle open. No need to take out the plugs . Then give it some throttle and crank it. Should fire up if it has spark. Wether it does or dosn't have spark, has no bearing on fuel getting into the combustion chamber.
 

Stonets

Cadet
Thread starter
Joined
Sep 27, 2015
Messages
26
got a spray bottle and a extension straw some pre-mixed. no effect after spraying into the carb, no sign of running at all with throttle wide open or half oepn. Then took the plugs out and spray directly into the cylinders. This time I kinda heart a bit sound of running maybe a couple cycles and saw some smoke from the 8 holes from the leg. But that was it, I was breaking my back pulling but smoke from the legs was the best I could get. So what goes next :(?
 
Last edited:

racerone

Honorary Supreme Mariner
Joined
Dec 28, 2013
Messages
40,028
Some questions that need answers.--How long have you owned it ?----Have you heard this motor run at all ?----Have you had the motor apart ?-----Any sign that someone else had it apart ?
 

Stonets

Cadet
Thread starter
Joined
Sep 27, 2015
Messages
26
racerone, I mentioned a bit of history in the previous posts. I bought it on kijiji a few years ago from someone claimed it works but it doesn't. I've never heard it run. Don't think I can see obvious sign that someone had it apart...I had it apart up to the reed plate.
 

sutor623

Rear Admiral
Joined
May 23, 2011
Messages
4,089
Are you setting the throttle lever to run before you pull the cord? I had two of these motors. One was a '69 and one was a '70. On one of them I had to push the throttle lever 3/4 of the way up to start and then pull it back to an idle.

I know this sounds like a dumb question, but I am just wondering.

When I start these motors, I like to prime the bulb, then pull the cord slowly 4-5 times to get fuel into the cylinder. Then I set the throttle lever to run, and pull it to start. Starts up just about every time with this method. These motors run like sewing machines when they are in good shape :)
 
Last edited:

WIMUSKY

Moderator
Staff member
Joined
Sep 26, 2009
Messages
20,609
Are you setting the throttle lever to run before you pull the cord? I had two of these motors. One was a '69 and one was a '70. On one of them I had to push the throttle lever 3/4 of the way up to start and then pull it back to an idle.

I know this sounds like a dumb question, but I am just wondering.

These motors run like sewing machines when they are in good shape :)



I had a '70 and did the same process. No doubt the cylinders aren't getting fuel....... Make sure you prime it good with the bulb.....
 
Last edited:

Stonets

Cadet
Thread starter
Joined
Sep 27, 2015
Messages
26
Are you setting the throttle lever to run before you pull the cord? I had two of these motors. One was a '69 and one was a '70. On one of them I had to push the throttle lever 3/4 of the way up to start and then pull it back to an idle.

thanks, I pull it at full throttle before the pull. and see what I just tried - spray directly into the cylinders and still won't run only gives smoke :)
 

sutor623

Rear Admiral
Joined
May 23, 2011
Messages
4,089
thanks, I pull it at full throttle before the pull. and see what I just tried - spray directly into the cylinders and still won't run only gives smoke :)

I wouldnt peg her at full throttle, just try with the throttle arm 1/2 way up, then maybe 3/4. Only do this with the motor in a bucket, not on muffs. If you have the prop submerged it will keep the motor from the "2 stroke run away phenomena".
 

tomhath

Master Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Dec 5, 2007
Messages
814
Any chance the wires are crossed? It only takes a second to switch them and see if it fires.
 

Stonets

Cadet
Thread starter
Joined
Sep 27, 2015
Messages
26
did try...swap wires, half throttle etc...it is a little tough motor :). I guess I should go back to spark maybe???...when I tested it couple days ago, I was using a long bolt against the cowling it was really hard to keep the distance...I've ordered a spark tester, want to see exactly how far it can jump...
 

oldboat1

Fleet Admiral
Joined
Apr 3, 2002
Messages
9,612
Need that spark tester to better see what you have. Sounds like you may not have done the usual ignition things yet, though -- pull the flywheel and look at the coils (replace if cracked), clean and gap points, check wires and connections. Check and make sure everything under there is tight, clean and assembled right, wires tucked away. I like to use some electrical cleaner.

Could still turn out to be a good runner. Best guess is the ignition isn't up to the job yet.
 

Stonets

Cadet
Thread starter
Joined
Sep 27, 2015
Messages
26
Finally got the spark tester...and...yes it doesn't have enough sparks. It does jump to about 2mm at the most but nothing more than that.

Guess the other night when I hold the long bolt and tried to do it and couldn't really get the accurate result with my shaky hands. I've also tested my other 4 HP 1989 Evinrude Deluxe and that motor give sparks jumps at least half an inch easily so that's the difference.

And after some struggles, I've removed the flywheel and get to look at what is inside. Firstly, I use 320 sand paper and follow by compress air and acetone to clean the points but no improvement at all.

Then I took some measurement of the coils. Both good with the prime (0 ohms). Then the second windings both measured at around 2.9K ohms. I read online says between 3K~8K is good. So am I at the edge? Are the coils the cause of weak sparks? The coils both full of cracks with broken insulations.

Do plan to replace the coils, should I also replace the condensors and points as well?

Thanks all so far for your input, I do feel that I learned a bit more after every attempt...:)
 
Last edited:

oldboat1

Fleet Admiral
Joined
Apr 3, 2002
Messages
9,612
I normally just replace it all, but your call. Plug wire is cheap too (At a minimum when the coil is off, would check continuity from the plug connector to the coil end of the wire). Whatever you remove and replace, it's a good idea to do one side of the magneto at a time, just to insure new assembly is correct.
 

Crosbyman

Admiral
Joined
Nov 5, 2006
Messages
6,298
The coils both full of cracks with broken insulations.

well........ old cracked coils are no good ...rebuild the whole ignition ..lots of info on how to do this ... just Google it

go visit Leroy's site ​
 

racerone

Honorary Supreme Mariner
Joined
Dec 28, 2013
Messages
40,028
Well now ----See post # 2 and why was it not acted on ??----You need 2 new coils on this motor !
 

Stonets

Cadet
Thread starter
Joined
Sep 27, 2015
Messages
26
I know, raceone :) you and F_R and a few others pointed out earlier...I guess I had my mind set and did not have a tester till now. Good learning...I will get two new coils and give another try. thanks folks!
 
Top