Water in engine oil.

[Sparky_1]

I have a Johnson 60 HP 4 stroke (J60pl4st), last weekend I was trolling around on a local lake for a couple of hours, when I notice oil on the waters surface.
I shut down the motor and used the Minn Kota to get me to the dock. I took the shrouds off and seen that the water and oil mixture was coming from the base of
the dip stick tube and the engine block. Can a marine mechanic put a pressure test on this outboard and locate the bad gasket or does all of the main gaskets
need to be replaced? The motor didn't sound any different before I shut it down, no knocking.

Anyone want to comment on this?
Thanks

 

[Faztbullet]

If the thermostat is bad it will cause condensation in crankcase and cause this . Likely its been doing this for a while and is now overfull..

 

[Sparky_1]

Faztbullet,
Thanks for the reply, I did drain the oil & water mixture right after it happen and I got almost 2 gallons of liquid.
The specs on the motor stats that it holds 5 quarts of oil. I use a premium oil, in which I need to change it every other
year, so this is the year that I didn't change out the oil. Is it possible to condensate 3 quarts of water since last year?

Are you thinking that the thermostat is stuck open?

 

[SparkieBoat]

if the engine does not reach proper operating temp it can create condensation. by the way.. cool name..

 

[SparkieBoat]

I would change my oil every year anyway.. but that is just me.

 

[emdsapmgr]

Some of the excess liquid in the crankcase could also be fuel. A cold-running 4-stroke engine also tends to let fuel leak past the rings into the crankcase. A similar problem to the Mercruiser engines when they run cold over a long period of time. Check the stat for rocks/debris- sticking it in the open position.

 

[daselbee]

This is a known problem with the Suzuki made DF60, DF70, and the E/J badged counterparts.
The problem stems from a design flaw in the head. If you can picture....looking at the head as it sits on the engine, go all the way to the bottom of the head.
Then go to the block to head mating surface (imagine it).

There are water passages that flow water between the head and block. There is also an oil gallery right there, next to a water passage. The water passage aluminum erodes, corrodes, as it doesn't drain fully when the engine is shut off.
Eventually is eats it's way across to the oil gallery and you get water in the oil.

IF that is not it, the powerhead sits on top of a part they call the engine holder. It is the oil pan also.
There is an intricate gasket that seals the two. The cooling water from the water pump flows thru this part in a rectangular shaped water passage, on it's way to the powerhead to cool.
If that gasket leaks, you get water in the oil.

Either way, the powerhead must come off to repair both possible problems.

 

[Sparky_1]

No Title

First of all I would like to thank your help in steering me in the right direction.
I did remove the thermostat and found it to be stuck wide open.
I have attached a couple of photos.

I think I need to install a temperature gauge in the console of my tiller boat, to help prevent this from happening again.
Does anybody know where the temp sensor is located on a 2003 J60PL4ST and how is it wired into a temp gauge?

Thanks.

 

[iggyw1]

First of all I would like to thank your help in steering me in the right direction.
I did remove the thermostat and found it to be stuck wide open.
I have attached a couple of photos.

I think I need to install a temperature gauge in the console of my tiller boat, to help prevent this from happening again.
Does anybody know where the temp sensor is located on a 2003 J60PL4ST and how is it wired into a temp gauge?

Thanks.

I added a temperature sensor to my outboard motor and the ran a wire to the temp gauge in the dashboard. The sensor I bought is mounted against the piston cover from the outside and is held in place (mounted) on a head bolt. Ran one wire to the gauge that I bought that is compatible to the temp sensor. (Wire goes from sensor to the gage) Works great! This is the second motor that I added the temp sensor against the piston head cover. Feruno temperature sensor.

Got it on line. it is a Feruno brand temp sensor and the gage is made to match the sensor. It ran me about $40 to buy it, and I installed it myself very easily. The gage indicates the temp to be 160 degrees which someone said the gage is not accurate, but I dont care if its a real (accurate) temp or not. I will still get an indication if the temp is rising for any reason.

 

[Sparky_1]

with the oil and gas mixture am I going to have a problem with the bearings and rings failing on this motor?

 

[Sparky_1]

with the gas and oil mixture am I going to have some problems with the bearings and rings?

 

[daselbee]

Well which is it? Water or gas in your oil?

 

[Sparky_1]

it was both water and gas, the oil was slightly creamy and there is a smell of gas.

 

[Sparky_1]

okay, here's what we have done so far, we ordered 72 degree Celsius thermostat and I installed that. I ran three batches of oil through it to clean it out. I ran it for a total of 2 hours in the driveway with muffs.
the temp gauge that I just installed read 160 degrees and up to 165 around 4000 rpm. I took the boat out on the water and ran it for about 15-20 minutes and the temperature exceeded 180 degrees. I shut it down and then when I went to restart it the engine turned over real slow and struggled to start, once it was started I let it idle and it came back down to 160. The 72 degree thermostat is an option for northern states and the normal thermostat is 60 degrees, my question is, will a 60 degree thermostat help it run normal or do we have internal problems with the motor? I did do a compression test and the number one cylinder had 147 pounds and cylinders 2,3 and 4 all ran it 145 pounds.
another thing I was thinking if I need to replace impeller since this motor is going on 12 years old.
I do have a 60 degree thermostat ordered and I will try that next,

 

[daselbee]

You got problems.

The compression on that motor should be in the 200+ range. I think I remember 210 from the books.....

Water in the oil is from the conditions I described earlier.
Gas in the oil is from a split diaphragm on the fuel lift pump, located on the back of the motor; the valve cover.

The 72 degree thermo, in my opinion, is not needed. Use the 60 degree.

12 year old impeller? Come on......

 

[jakedaawg]

If your impeller is 12 years old I would definitely be replacing it. I would also run the standard thermostat unless I was in hudson bay or somepace ridiculously cold.

 

[duke33]

wow,the impeller should have been replaced at least five times by now.

 

[SparkieBoat]

you might want to change the oil in the gearcase too since it is 12 years old and all. just saying

 

[Sparky_1]

Update:
I have around 10 hours of run time on the repair. I changed the impeller and the impeller housing, which had grooves in it. I also changed the T Stat back to the 60 degrees C and it's maintaining a 145 degrees Fahrenheit while running.
I also did another comps sion test, the correct way this time. Warm up the engine, remove all spark plugs, WOT and test. Two cylinders were 190 and two were 195.
The oil level is maintaining constant level.

 

[SparkieBoat]

that is great. looks like you should be good. dont forget to change the gearcase oil.. it is cheap and easy. failure to properly maintain an outboard can cost you $$$$