1976 35hp 2cylinder 2 stroke Evinrude ignition problem

Stuartmacg

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Hi guys
Happy new year from a new member.
I have an Evinrude outboard as above. The issue with it is I have lost ignition on #2 cylinder (bottom one). The engine was running sweet when the #2 cylinder just completely died.
On returning to dry land this is what I found. From the underside area of the flywheel there was a BLUE/White tracer wire that appeared to have broken off. End of it was all frayed,but there was no obvious sign as to where it came from. The wiring for #2 cylinder is BLUE/White tracer. I tested the wiring Blue/white tracer right back to the ignition switch and it was dead all the way. The BLUE wire from the ignition for #1 cylinder is powered up at all times from the ignition switch when the switch is on and the motor running. #2 cylinder-BLUE/White does not appear to be powered at all when the motor is running.
I am suspecting the ignition switch first up but I am also concerned as to where the BLUE/White tracer from the flywheel should be connected.
All and any help and information will be gratefully received.
Stuart
From down under in New Zealand.
 

racerone

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The ignition system ( spark ) is not run by 12 volts from the battery.----So what do you mean by " powered up " in this case ?-----
 

restornator

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each ignition lead starts at a set of points, one set of points for each cylinder. The blue/white lead that is hanging there must be connected to the black connector with the other blue/white wire. Those wires are twisted together and crimped into one terminal.
 

Stuartmacg

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The ignition system ( spark ) is not run by 12 volts from the battery.----So what do you mean by " powered up " in this case ?-----

Ok. by "powered up" I mean that when I use a test light on the BLUE wire from the #1 cylinder to the ignition switch to earth the test lamp is lit. Not so on the BLUE/White wire to #2 cylinder. If the ignition wires to the cylinders are not supplied with 12 volts from the ignition switch where do the ignition coils derive their power from??
 

Stuartmacg

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each ignition lead starts at a set of points, one set of points for each cylinder. The blue/white lead that is hanging there must be connected to the black connector with the other blue/white wire. Those wires are twisted together and crimped into one terminal.

Thanks for that. I have found a wiring diagram since posting for a 20hp 2 stroke 2 cylinder. Apart from the wire colours being different the diagram matches the wiring on the 35hp to a tee. The only thing the diagram doesn't show is the switching configuration of the ignition switch when the switch is turned ON. I have concluded that the ignition coils derive their power from the ignition switch and the points for the cylinders GROUND the power for each cylinder when there is no spark required. Am I on the right track here??
 

racerone

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No -----12 volts ( power ) from the switch is not used for spark !!!
 

Bosunsmate

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Have you popped the flywheel to look at the wiring/points?
Whereabouts in NZ are you? Great boating weather here in the bay of islands at the moment
 

gm280

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I just happen to have a 40HP Johnson version of that same year engine. And I can tell you there is no 12 volts powering your individual spark coils. Their power comes form exciter coils under the flywheel. There are two of them, one for each cylinder and an additional separate stator coil to provide a battery charging circuit. as well. The flywheel turns and produces the primary side of the coils with a voltage and the points actually open breaking that build up of voltage producing a secondary high voltage output to each plug. So in essence there are two completely but still separate setups for the two cylinders. I would remove the flywheel and see what else is messed up and correct the problem(s) and reassembly again. It really isn't very complicated and the points get set at .020" for your info. The kill and ignition switches actually shorts the primary sides of the spark coil circuits and shuts the engine down for lack of spark!.
 

boobie

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Go to shop.evinrude.com, look up your motor and the ignition system and you will find the components that produce the spark. No battery required. Battery only for the starter motor.
 

Stuartmacg

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Have you popped the flywheel to look at the wiring/points?
Whereabouts in NZ are you? Great boating weather here in the bay of islands at the moment
H there. Was up at Raukokore on the east cape just 5 minutes west of Waihou Bay when things went to custard. Murphy was hard at work.Haven't popped the flywheel yet. Really need to get my hands on a puller before I go there.Thanks for your suggestion.
 
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Stuartmacg

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I just happen to have a 40HP Johnson version of that same year engine. And I can tell you there is no 12 volts powering your individual spark coils. Their power comes form exciter coils under the flywheel. There are two of them, one for each cylinder and an additional separate stator coil to provide a battery charging circuit. as well. The flywheel turns and produces the primary side of the coils with a voltage and the points actually open breaking that build up of voltage producing a secondary high voltage output to each plug. So in essence there are two completely but still separate setups for the two cylinders. I would remove the flywheel and see what else is messed up and correct the problem(s) and reassembly again. It really isn't very complicated and the points get set at .020" for your info. The kill and ignition switches actually shorts the primary sides of the spark coil circuits and shuts the engine down for lack of spark!.

Thank you for your post. I have been back to the wiring diagram I have and I see there is a "DRIVER COIL" which is shown as being in with the points although in the diagram there is no connection to the ignition circuit show. All a lot clearer now. The voltage I got when testing was going TO the ignition switch not coming FROM the ignition switch. Looks like the flywheel will be coming off when I can get my hands on a puller.
 

Bosunsmate

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H there. Was up at Raukokore on the east cape just 5 minutes west of Waihou Bay when things went to custard. Murphy was hard at work.Haven't popped the flywheel yet. Really need to get my hands on a puller before I go there.Thanks for your suggestion.
Thats a great part of the country, only small settlements with big hills and varied coastlines. Did some fishing last year at Te Kaha, quite good, lots of kingys but unfortunately couldnt keep driving east to where you were.
Be careful with the puller. Dont put the HT bolts down too far or you risk screwing into the base components, the flywheel holes are right through the flywheel for some reason so you have to estimate when you have reached the right spot. Also dont put them in too shallow or you risk stripping the threads as it being a saltie motor the flywheel is often on quite tight. Dont use a three leg/gear puller as they bend the flywheel if its at all stuck. The one you want is often called a harmonic balancer puller set. Some boat shops will pop it off for a few bucks if you ring them up and ask, so long as you dont bother them much when you turn up. One boat shop let me use their tool for free in the boot of my hilux while i parked in their yard
 

restornator

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Just connect the blue/white wires!! It's not a mystery. That hanging wire goes to the #2 ignition coil. That's why you don't have fire.
 

Stuartmacg

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Just connect the blue/white wires!! It's not a mystery. That hanging wire goes to the #2 ignition coil. That's why you don't have fire.

I did actually connect the Blue/white wire in question to the black connector to no avail. Tells me that the problem is under the flywheel after all. Will be worth a look to lift it and check out the condition of the points anyhow. I can bet it's never been off in it's life.
 

tomhath

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The Blue wire might have been touching something, that would ground the ignition on that cylinder and kill it, same as turning off the switch. Look at all the other wires for worn insulation as well.

The ignition is real simple on those motors so problems are easy to fix once you understand how magneto/points function (just a transformer and a switch really).
 

boobie

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Agree, go for the points. They are critical in that ignition system.
 

Stuartmacg

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Agree, go for the points. They are critical in that ignition system.

Thanks to all that offered help. Finally got the flywheel off and found the points weren't flash but ok. I was a condenser that had broken down to earth. Complete dead short to earth. I have taken the opportunity naturally to dress up the points and when I have sourced a new capacitor we will be good to go.
 
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