89 Admiral Cuddy - not quite a restore...

fishndad

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Joined
Jun 11, 2008
Messages
18
I have a 1989 Admiral cuddy cabin, 20' ft of cheap (and I mean cheap) boat. I bought this new in 1990, it had been on a dealer's lot for a year and was about all I could afford at the time. It's not much of a boat, but my kids have grown up on it, and now one son is a Coast Guard reservist, the other is finishing up a college degree in fisheries and wants to be a charter captain.

It's certainly not the boat of my dreams. It was made by the Raven boat company, who was apparently only in business a few years - and I'm guessing that's at least in part because they didn't build a very good boat.

The boat has been trailered most of its life, I bought a slip 2 years ago since my age and health suggested that putting the boat in and out several times a weekend was no longer fun (and that my sons aren't around as much). It was under a canvas cover whenever not in use, cranked high on the tongue to drain any rainwater that did get in, and double tarped each winter. for the last 9 years I've had it in a pole barn whenever its not on the water.

I should have known there was a serious problem a few years ago, when while heading back from our favorite fishing spot, the captain's chair broke loose and I was on my back, facing the clouds. But I thought it was just too thin a plywood floor, and I added a 3/4 plywood riser under the seat, screwed it down and went back to fishing.

Toward the end of last season, my son convinced me that we should pull up and replace the floor, it seemed a bit soft in a couple of spots. I'm sure all you veterans can see it coming now.

We intended on starting in March, in hopes of having a full season (we're in Michigan, and salmon and trout fishing on the Great Lakes is a May-Sept. sport for our family). I got started a bit late, and finally tore into the floor toward the end of May.

I read a few things (including a few posts on this forum) and got a few tips from friends. My son convinced me that it was worth the $100/sheet for the 3 sheets of marine ply, and to use West Systems epoxy. So I bought the wood, and the epoxy.

Then I started tearing into the boat. I've taken a bunch of photos along the way, and will post them in subsequent posts once I get them to the standard forum size and have some time to add notes for each one. The plan slipped to hoping to finish by the 4th of July, now I'm rushing to get done by a fishing tournament I usually enter in mid-August, but frankly I'm not totally convinced I can even get it done by Labor Day. The boat is 200 miles away from my weekday habitat, so my work is confined to weekends (including a few longer weekends).

To make a long story short, I'm now at least in the building phase. For weeks I'd hoped I would begin the positive side of the process, only to tear out more bad stuff instead. I've spent over $2,000 already, and perhaps not done spending. This boat isn't worth a lot - in fact, in this economy there is a boat for sale for about $3,000 that has a bigger motor, is better built and even has better fishing equipment as part of the deal. (If I would have known how bad the boat was, I would have parted it out and gotten some please with a chain saw....)

So here it is - I've decided I would use this boat as a learning experience. I figure if I ever ran across a boat that is just perfect, and a great deal because it needs work, I'll be ready. As such, most of you will giggle or groan on my approach (perhaps both). I've read with gusto many posts throughout this forum. I will be using and making comments on all sorts of material. The transom is done and back in, using pristine (expensive) marine ply and West Systems epoxy (for which the first gallon I paid way too much money at the local West Marine store). Once I passed the $1,000 mark I decided I'd slow down the spending, so I am using polyester resin and treated plywood for replacing the rotten stringers. The engine box will also be built from treated ply, but will be set and glassed in with epoxy. In fact, I'll have used at least 3 brands of epoxy, so you'll get comments about which was god, which was not so good (hint: not all epoxy is good for boat building).

With any luck I'll get the first pics up tonight. In the mean time, as you might have gathered, I'm nowhere near done. So this is your opportunity to give some advice, and plenty of encouragement.

Here's the opening question - the boat had marine carpeting, but that got slimey when we would land a big fish (or a few at once). I intended to install marine vinyl, but I see that some like to use a variety of paint products instead. Any comments on the virtues of vinyl .vs. paint, and what brands or types have worked for you would be appreciated.

Now, to start pulling the pictures together and tell you the rest of my story!
 

fishndad

Cadet
Joined
Jun 11, 2008
Messages
18
Re: 89 Admiral Cuddy - not quite a restore...Pics!

Re: 89 Admiral Cuddy - not quite a restore...Pics!

Here's a link to the first set of pics, the next shipment of epoxy arrived and its the weekend, so I'm off to do the next tasks.
http://s790.photobucket.com/albums/yy183/fishndad42/89 Admiral Boat Restore - phase 1

I'll post some lessons learned real soon...
 

Bondo

Moderator
Staff member
Joined
Apr 17, 2002
Messages
71,078
Re: 89 Admiral Cuddy - not quite a restore...Pics!

Re: 89 Admiral Cuddy - not quite a restore...Pics!

Ayuh,... Welcome Aboard Fishndad,...
I love your story,... Sounds like that boat is worth a Million Bucks,...
In Memories,...;)

I use roll-on bedliner, in colors... Easier,+ more durable than roll vinyl...
 

fishndad

Cadet
Joined
Jun 11, 2008
Messages
18
Re: 89 Admiral Cuddy - not quite a restore...

Sorry for the broken link, it worked for my Facebook friends. I'll read the FAQ and post more (and try to do it right!) as soon as I can get more than a few minutes. Hectic times - I'm taking Friday off to go do 3 days of fiberglassing, and still have to call into a meeting. In the mean time, I'm guessing this link method also isn't kosher, but at least it should work: http://bit.ly/9ZqUZ8
 

jonesg

Admiral
Joined
Feb 22, 2008
Messages
7,198
Re: 89 Admiral Cuddy - not quite a restore...

Looks good to me, just needs reno work.
I uploaded some of your pics.;)
 

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fishndad

Cadet
Joined
Jun 11, 2008
Messages
18
Re: 89 Admiral Cuddy - A word about resin

Re: 89 Admiral Cuddy - A word about resin

After a 3 day marathon I still didn't finish fiberglassing the stringers and bulkheads, now I'm not quite sure I'll even get the boat in the water this year. I ran out of resin materials, so it seem like a good time to spend a few moments sharing my experience.

As I noted, I started with epoxy and decided after the project got big, I didn't think I wanted to spend the money on epoxy. So I did the transom in epoxy and I'm doing the stringers and bulkheads in poly. This is adding some complexity. I decided I could use the extra strength of epoxy at the rear of the boat where I had cut out the back of the stringers (both for rot and for clearance in getting the new transom in). Since most of you know that you can epoxy over poly but not the other way around, I've had to do some additional work. I epoxied these rear portions of the stringer repair, tabbing them into the hull and transom, continuing the epoxy well beyond the joint between old and new. In the case of the outer stringers, these were in good enough shape to repair (another post to come), so I enhanced them with the poly over the old, then after curing I epoxied the new section extending it over the older area.

In the case of the middle ones that had to be entirely replaced, the "stringer" actually starts out as the engine compartment sidewall, then tapers in at the engine compartment bulkhead and continues toward the front of the boat.
I wanted the engine compartment/bilge area all epoxy based, so that was OK. But to ease up on cost, I did the outer side of that and the rest of the middle stringers in poly. Here's where it gets tricky. Where that engine box wall tabs into the transom (which is already epoxy), I used epoxy and biaxial tape. Then I switched to poly, leaving a gap. After letting the poly cure this week, I'll do an epoxy section to tie in the two. Silly, right? I think I stated before that I'd decided to use this as a training ground, so I am trying a variety of methods. Its hokey and I wouldn't recommend it for anyone who's in love with their boat, but I am learning a lot!

Here's a few thoughts - my own experience of course, not very scientific perhaps. In the realm of epoxy .vs. polyester, I had read that epoxy was easier. I did not personally find a difference between the two. Mixing poly is different, since its 10cc of hardener for a quart of resin at the temp I'm working at, and you are supposed to adjust the mix by a cc or two depending on outside temp. But I did not find it much more difficult than mixing epoxy at 2, 3 or 5 to 1 (depending on brand, etc).

I mentioned I've used 3 brands of epoxy so far. I started with West Systems, using the pumps and all. The pumps make measuring easy but for good sized batches it was an awful lot of pumping. The epoxy worked well, easy enough to use, its just kind of expensive depending on where you buy it.

I tried to find cheaper epoxy before I switched to the poly. I found some at Fiberglasssite.com, and their write-up said low viscosity, easy wet out, etc. They were wrong. This stuff was quite a bit more syrupy and was much more difficult to use. It was much harder to wet out the glass. It mixes at 3:1. It also creates a very sticky blush as it hardens. They even enclosed a separate note about the blush. It is water soluable, so you are supposed to wash it with hot water before sanding for more coats. Something about water and fiberglassing just doesn't seem a good idea in boatbuilding, meaning I had to spend extra time drying areas that were exposed wood, etc. each step. According to their website, this stuff is 20% harder than normal resin, I believe it. I'm glad I used it mostly for the transom, using really hard stuff doesn't sound like good boatbuilding either. Fortunately I didn't buy a lot of this.

At this time I switched to the polyester, I get it from a local guy who I've been bugging - plus I know I get really fresh stuff from him. He's cut me some slack in pricing of some materials, otherwise I think online stores would have beat him out. As I noted, I found it east to work with, except that it smells a lot stronger. I use a vapor mask either way, and can deal with the lingering smell. Oh, and the polyester eats most types of roller covers. I was using the same cheap foam ones I had used for epoxy, and they disintegrated almost immediately!

Then I found the house brand at boatbuildercentral. It mixes 2:1 so its very easy. You can buy it in various cure speed, I've been using slow because of the inexperience and some other things I've learned - especially about biaxial (another post I need to make). This epoxy was easy to use, wetted out the glass pretty well, and when hardened seems solid yet a but flexible - perfect for boatbuilding. This stuff is, in quantity, inexpensive enough that the difference is probably affordable.

The point is not to promote a specific product, and I'm not trying to violate any rules for the forum. The lessons I learned may be useful.

Lesson 1: Polyester is plenty good for many folks. it seems to stick just fine, and isn't any harder to work with IMHO. Choose special roller covers though!

Lesson 2: There is a difference in epoxies. Some are easier to use, some are more difficult, some blush in different ways, some do not.

Lesson 3: Epoxy need not be prohibitively expensive, depending on how much you'll need for your project. But, there is so much variation in formulas, and cheaper isn't always better. You may want to talk with others and read all the fine print before choosing one.

For me, if I were to do it all over again, It would depend on the boat and what types of repair it needed. For this boat I would have stuck with the last brand of epoxy Because of all the repair work. I think it makes sense for new to go either way, but for something with lots of repair where you are leaving some things in the boat, epoxy would be my choice. And, I would have skipped the polyester, only because using both added time and complexity to the project. Again, if I was all the way down to the hull and using all new wood, etc. I might very well ue polyester again. (Or, I might try vinyl-ester, my new local guy says this is in between epoxy and polyester. Don't know what "in between" means except for cost, though!) So I did some odd things like using both epoxy and polyester, but I did it for a learning experience, and hope someone might learn from it as well.

OK, need to go for now, I still need to read up on uploading some pics so these posts won't be so dry!
 

Isaacm1986

Lieutenant Junior Grade
Joined
May 20, 2009
Messages
1,086
Re: 89 Admiral Cuddy - not quite a restore...

Great work so far! You may be putting a lot of work into the boat, but when you are done it will be far better than it was new!

Keep up the good work and I look forward to some more pictures!
 

fishndad

Cadet
Joined
Jun 11, 2008
Messages
18
Re: 89 Admiral Cuddy - not quite a restore...

Thanks for the encouragement, Isaacm1986! You have a pretty nifty project of your own, I see!
 

fishndad

Cadet
Joined
Jun 11, 2008
Messages
18
Re: 89 Admiral Cuddy - not quite a restore...

Just got back from 3 days of working on the boat. All the underpinnings are now done, I need to do some fancy figuring before I set the sole in place. The original pieces has a weird taper, but I thing it was just a poor design. There is about 5/8 of an inch gap between where a level floor would be and the center stringers, The original floor was stapled down about every 1/4 inch, effectively bowing the plywood floor toward the center. It also sloped a bid toward the bow of the boat, which doesn't seem right. In some boatbuilding posts I see recommendations to basically epoxy a strip on either side of the stringer to provide a big, wide area to glue the floor down. I'm thinking I can fix the slope to level by simply using this technique but instead of level to the stringer, just make the two sides level to where I want the floor to go.

Why do I want to do this? Mostly I am going to epoxy the plywood down using temporary screws to hold it down, then back the screws out and fill the screw holes with thickened epoxy. This way there won't be anything left in there to promote rot. The staples that were in there just seemed like hundreds of extra holes and places for moisture to wick along. I'm worried that with just epoxy and no fasteners, the preloaded stress of the flexed plywood might help it pull away at some point. Level seems like a more logical design, and if I follow some people's instructions I ought to be adding these glue strips anyways.

Comments?
 

fishndad

Cadet
Joined
Jun 11, 2008
Messages
18
Re: 89 Admiral Cuddy - not quite a restore...

Seems like bedliner has been recommended enough to seriously consider. I was planning on adding a few layers of fiberglass first, is that needed?

Also, I just read in a few places that some manufacturer's CSM isn't epoxy compatible. I was going to put down a layer or two of CSM on the floor, then a layer of 6oz. cloth with epoxy. That plus tabbing it in with biaxial tape should make it pretty waterproof. Now I'm not so sure about the CSM and wondering what, if anything I should use - perhaps just 2 layers of cloth? Maybe just the bedliner and get on with it??

Unfortunately I have used CSM quite a bit. As I've written, I've used this boat as a training ground and so I've used both polyester and epoxy. In the engine box and the transom, I used 2 layers of CSM and two of biaxial using epoxy, did I just shoot myself in the foot, and how would I know? It seemed like it was setting up pretty nice. I just cut several holes in the bulkhead/engine box front so I could run the fuel lines, so I have some plugs I could study the cross sections, I guess.

If I've screwed up badly at this point, I'd like to know. I'd hate to have spent over $2,500 in materials and so many hours this summer fixing this boat instead of other summer activities, but I obviously don't want to sink, either! If it's now scrap or start over, I'll scrap it and find something else, but I'm finally at a point where I'm making progress and it's starting to look like a boat again!
 

jimdd810

Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Mar 18, 2006
Messages
532
Re: 89 Admiral Cuddy - not quite a restore...

doing a great job. The satisfaction of building a better boat is worth all the money in the world. Just think of what your accomplishing
 
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