Wet Transom Help!!!

[sbv16]

Hi

After deciding to repaint the entire hull of my 15foot fiberglass runabout I finally got around to removing the outboard. However when taking one the the outboard bolts out I noticed water pouring out of the hole. Not a good sign. In light of this I thought I had better drill some test holes partially into the transom to see where and how much water entry had occurred. I managed to find a small area where water seeped out of the holes. The majority of the rest of the transom was dry however. I also noticed in areas where water seeped out of the holes the transom wood was not black but a nice light brown color. So it doesn't seem like it has rotted...... yet. It has however begun to rot around the drain holes. Further to this I took the aluminum transom capping off and found cracks or what might be delamination of the outer skin at the top of the transom???? Im not sure.


http://i829.photobucket.com/albums/zz213/sbv16/Transom/IMG_1231.jpg

Picture of entire transom, including many test holes

http://i829.photobucket.com/albums/zz213/sbv16/Transom/IMG_1225.jpg

Picture of the crack at the top

I have tried to drain as much water out of the transom as possible. But I guess my question is can it be saved? or should I replace the transom? Before I took the outboard off I had someone jump on the cavitation plate to see if there was any flex in the transom and there was none. Should I consider trying to replace the transom from the outside? doing it from the inside is not an option, deck and top removal just makes it a huge project which I fear may be outside my capabilities....

 

[Bob_VT]

Re: Wet Transom Help!!!

You need to do a few test holes in the surrounding area. Do a search for "Test Holes" in this section.

If you come out with dry wood then you can refill the holes with 3m5200. Do the tests from the inside.

DO NOT cut the outside of the hull. Transom can be repaired with seacast or nidabond from the outside by just uncapping the area and clearing it all out.

 

[drewpster]

Re: Wet Transom Help!!!

The cracking at the top under the trasom cap could simply be fractured resin. I have noticed that many of the factories fill the area under the transom cap using plain old poly resin, instead of doing it right. Poly resin alone will fracture whether it is stressed or not. Unless you are seeing any other signs of stress in the transom, I would not worry about it too much.
The water in the transom is another matter. The most important thing is that it is solid. I ran my little tri-hull for a long time knowing there was water under the transom skin. Just know that if you decide to keep running it you will have to keep a close eye for any signs of flex. If you see any obvious flex in it, the transom its rotten and needs repair. The beginnings of flex could be indicated by crazing or cracking at the corners of the splashwell. My transom had a noticable bow in it, thats when I decided it was time to tear it down. Locallized areas of soft core will show up as a dip or low spot in the skin in areas where the outboard stress the surface. If you see a place where the outboard mount is digging in to the fiberglass, there is movment there, and the transom is weak. People run in to real trouble when they fail to keep an eye on things. Dont let it freak you out, just keep an eye on it.
And of course, if you decide to lose you mind like the rest of us, and tear in to your boat, I will be here to cheer you on.

enjoy
drewp

 

[sbv16]

Re: Wet Transom Help!!!

I have already drilled many test holes, mostly in areas where I feel water ingress has occured. I drilled the holes on the outside however not on the inside......

I have noticed the top motor mounts ie bolts located on the transom where the splashwell is are a bit recessed into the transom. I think the transom is solid. But there is obvious signs of rot in the drain hole areas and, like i explianed before in and around the motor bolt holes.

The problem is I am about to go to through the effort of stripping and painting the entire hull. So some part of me is saying maybe I should do the transom now and avoid the possibility that sometime down the track the transom will needs replacing and will mean painting etc in some parts again.

I have researched transom replacement methods including cutting the skin from the rear using the west system, cutting from the inside and pouring from the top. If you choose the pour from the top option how do you get all of the plywood out right at the bottom of the transom? I have seen many projects done wherebye the outer skin is cut etc is there any reason why this cannot be done?

Cheers for such fast replies!!! this damn boat one big project turns into an even bigger one

 

[drewpster]

Re: Wet Transom Help!!!

Cheers for such fast replies!!! this damn boat one big project turns into an even bigger one

Welcome to my world.

If you have bolts pulling in to the transom unfortunately your transom is shot. I would replace the transom before using the boat again. Least that can happen is you will lose the engine in the lake, worst is you will sink. (both have happened)
I recommend you bite the bullet and start teardown, or, part it out, or junk it. Rotten cores are dangerous, replacing them is do-able but a chore.The choice is yours.

 

[sbv16]

Re: Wet Transom Help!!!

I have suspected the possibility of a waterlogged transom but have been living in denial.... I guess Im just gonna have to bite the bullet and fix the thing now. I have come this far.

Ok well replacing the transom from the inside is out of the question, thats too much deconstruction and getting a bit out of my range of ability. Is replacing the transom from the outside an acceptable repair? I dont wanna start any arguements about transom repair methods and their different structural integrities. I just wanna change my transom without spending huge amounts of money but giving me a strong and reliable outcome.

I have researched pouring seacast into transom, dunno how I would go getting hold of that sort of material here in Australia. Have also read some negatives on undertaking this method. I am open to both I guess

 

[Drewb082001]

Re: Wet Transom Help!!!

that transom needs to be replaced. I had a similar situation on a campion i had. the transom seemed solid. i could hit it, drill it and it seemed like it was solid. had a 115hp merc. on it. but as soon as you started the motor, the transom would tweek a lil. the transom by itself felt solid/looked solid but it wasnt. i re-enforced it, with brackets for a short time, but once you notice the transoms gone you better replace it, get it done before you have a huge problem like your motor falls off. or like these boats i pick up guys cracking their transoms cause they dont realize that their boat is rotted out. if your transoms rotted, your floor might be too! things to check

 

[dawitner]

Re: Wet Transom Help!!!

Cut the cap off just behind the stripe closest to you when standing at the rear of the boat then dig the transom out with a boring bit and chainsaw, yes chainsaw. Get all the old wood out then re-pour the transom with Seacast.

Might as well get over the denial stage and just get to sawin'

 

[Coho Ghost]

Re: Wet Transom Help!!!

sbv16,

Do a search to see if there is a "pourable" transom core material available in Australia. Here in the USA I prefer Nida bond pourable material. Nida and Seacast may be available in "Oz". They are both pretty easy to use, it's the pre-preparation that is the work. It's really not as horrible as it sounds to drill and chainsaw out the rotten wood core. Use a electric chainsaw, they are a little easier to control. Don't worry about sawing the inner and outer transom skins, you can tell when the chain starts to contact them too hard.

The pourable transom coring is more expensive then wood, but makes a pretty nice transom when you are done, and NO MORE WOOD to rot out. Hope you can connect on things down there.

Coho Ghost

 

[Isaacm1986]

Re: Wet Transom Help!!!

I have used the Nida Bond before and it works GREAT! I have read a lot of good things about the seacast as well and I know a lot of people on Iboats here have had amazing results. There is also a another transom compound called Arjay.

Like mentioned above. Just cut the transom cap off with a sawzall, bust out the chainsaw, and carefully grind up all the wood. Then just take a shop vac and vacume the transom clean. I did this on a 78 ranger bass boat and it worked great. When you are all done, just fiberglass a new transom cap on and you are ready to boat!

 

[jonesg]

Re: Wet Transom Help!!!

Its shot for sure, the wood is swelling and splitting the glass open.
Watch the video on the seacast website.
Most the work is done with a wood spade drill bit 1 1/2" dia with a long extension, the chainsaw throws the rest of it out, I used a sears elec chainsaw, it worked good.
Nida core is half the cost of seacast, the clearing out proceedure is the same.