Starting out rookie 14' aluminum

Bob_VT

Moderator & Unofficial iBoats Historian
Staff member
Joined
May 19, 2001
Messages
26,061
Re: Starting out rookie 14' aluminum

No need for marine plywood good quality exterior that has been properly prepared will do fine.

Take a look at some of the completed projects in this section for ideas and hints ;) http://forums.iboats.com/forumdisplay.php?f=407
 

Cozeen

Cadet
Joined
Feb 13, 2010
Messages
13
Re: Starting out rookie 14' aluminum

Little confused on how come I can't find a message i posted lastnight and this morning, so I'll just post it one more time. What kind on plywood can I use if I can't find marine grade? HOw much resin do I use? How do i treat the inside of the boat once I get it back down to the metal? The transom has a little wood rotting off the top, but the rest seems to be pretty solid, should I replace it? Thanks.
 

Bob_VT

Moderator & Unofficial iBoats Historian
Staff member
Joined
May 19, 2001
Messages
26,061
Re: Starting out rookie 14' aluminum

What do I need to use when I can't find any marine grade plywood? How much resin is enough?

What do I need to use when I can't find any marine grade plywood? How much resin is enough? The transom has rotting wood on the top but the rest seems to be sound, should I replace it anyway? thanks

Little confused on how come I can't find a message i posted lastnight and this morning, so I'll just post it one more time. What kind on plywood can I use if I can't find marine grade? HOw much resin do I use? How do i treat the inside of the boat once I get it back down to the metal? The transom has a little wood rotting off the top, but the rest seems to be pretty solid, should I replace it? Thanks.
:confused::confused::confused: Your messages are all here and I checked.

Use exterior plywood....... depending on the size of the transom usually a gallon will suit your needs for the transom.

The inside of the boat (bare metal) will need gluvit (well it's suggested) on the rivets and seams..... then you can apply paint if you want to change the color.
 

olefisherman

Cadet
Joined
Jan 22, 2010
Messages
29
Re: Starting out rookie 14' aluminum

owned a 16 footer for over 20 yrs repaired rebuilt every thing on it at least once sometimes three times . if you want an unsinkable boat get 2 inch blue foam . must be blue it is closed cell and will not soak any water. line entire hull with extra layers at the back wherever it will go. if tin boats sink they will roll over without extra foam near motor . i hammered this boat in some big water , broke frames three times. however on a bet i filled her up with water at the dock one time with water going over transom from inside still had almost 6in of freeboard . you wonder why?
sunk previous boat in storm one week after ice out . swim hard and pray. i still hear the rope slapping the storm flag pole .
also buy an automatic bilge pump .
 

Cozeen

Cadet
Joined
Feb 13, 2010
Messages
13
Re: Starting out rookie 14' aluminum

So I may have messed up. While using a wheel sander on the glue and paint inside the boat, I grinded off the back of some of what appeared to be rivets. After I realized what I'd done I knocked on the spots where they were to see what would happen. There is no area resembling wehre a rivet used to be, it is just smooth like the rest. Is this going to be ok, or what do i need to do?
thanks guys
 

Bob_VT

Moderator & Unofficial iBoats Historian
Staff member
Joined
May 19, 2001
Messages
26,061
Re: Starting out rookie 14' aluminum

Replace the rivets you damaged!
 

Cozeen

Cadet
Joined
Feb 13, 2010
Messages
13
Re: Starting out rookie 14' aluminum

yeah, but there is no evidence of the rivet comiing out. Do I wait and see? or do I knock out where it comes in from the other side and replace it? Like I said before, the inside of the boat is smooth like there never was a rivet there and I want to know if it will stay that way.
 

Cozeen

Cadet
Joined
Feb 13, 2010
Messages
13
Aluminum Hole Repair

Aluminum Hole Repair

Found out where the 2 small leaks were coming from under neath. Someone had reparied a hole with some sort of silicone. I am not sure that the hole is big enough to rivet a patch in there, so what is the next best hole filler? I am planning on taking it in both freshwater and the Intercoastal waterway. Also, How important is it to sand the hull all the way down to the aluminum. There are alot of rivets that I want to stay away from. Thanks guys
 

Okie archer

Cadet
Joined
Mar 6, 2010
Messages
9
Re: Starting out rookie 14' aluminum

I'm also a proud new owner and I bought a 14' tin can as well, so welcome to the fraternity! I am in the aerospace industry however and have extensive knowledge of rivets. (thats not bragging, anyone else on here that bucks rivets for a living understands!;)) Anyway, if you grinded the rivet flush, I'm assuming you were in the boat so its the bucked end and not the head, you need go to the head if you can't see the part you grinded and drill it out and replace it. Aluminum is too soft and the hulls aren't thick enough to run with blind fastners (not technically a blind rivet but I'm just talking about it being flush with the metal). It should be an aluminum rivet anyways, so it's gravy to drill. Just be sure and center punch the head so your drill bit doesn't slip off and add another hole to the boat. I know it seems like more work than necessary for one rivet in a sea of thousands, but when it pops out because of the boat flexing and your getting hit in the face by a squirt gun you'll be glad you did it. Those rivets are also spaced accordingly to strengthen the hull, start losing rivets and you might end up with a small crack that will decide to get bigger when you don't want it too. Also, I saw you were asking about engines (I think it was this thread), mine has a 9.8 horse mercury and it's plenty. I also have a 40lb trolling motor on the bow and a 34lb on the transom (just in case, I don't like paddling!). Anywhere up to about 10-12 will be sufficient, the transom can't support much more than that. Your not gonna win the hole shot at a bass tourney, but it'll get you to the crappie while those other guys are spit-shining their overpriced toys!

Anyway, good luck with it man. I'll be keeping tabs since I'm just starting to restore mine also. I'm gonna start a thread on it too once I take some pics.

Tim

PS Don't take the previous owners lead and use silcone. It doesn't belong on a boat and definitely not below the waterline!
 

osborn159

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Feb 27, 2010
Messages
383
Re: Starting out rookie 14' aluminum

without a pic its hard to tell, if im pickin up what your puttin down, it should go like this.
1. you will need to drill out your old rivits, use a small dril bit to start, you only need to take the head off, use a drift punch to knock whats left thru carefully, i dont know what gauge metal this boat is and alum is soft and will tear and bend easily.
2. if you can find solid rivits you will have to buck them into the existing holes.(as was suggested b4 google bucking rivits or try utube), if you cant find solid you will need to find solid blind rivits,(the kind with the stem out the top)
3. or you can use s/s screws with a strip of metal (with holes drilled in the apropriate places) on the outer side of the hull b sure to use marine sealant under the strip of metal, place screws in holes use a nylock nut and locktite and tighten till you cant turn them (id use a quality cordless drill, b sure not to round out the srewhead)
 
Top