All Gauges Out

[Opus]

Hello All....

Getting ready to tear into the intrument panel but thought I would ask first...1986 Procraft Bass Boat...Fuel, RPM, Speedometer & PSI gauges not working. All fuses on the dash test and look good.

Toggle for Master works but only in the down position (Courtesy Lights), which also does light all the gauges. The Bilge Pump toggle works, as does the Nav Lights switch, but again, only if I have the Master toggle in the down, or Courtesy position.

The Aerator toggle does not work, however, the previous owner put an aftermarket aerator control flush mounted on the right wall near the throttle. This control is a little more advanced then the toggle - Manuel and Auto settings, as well as a timer, so two trains of thought...maybe he put this in because it was cool, or maybe he put this in because the toggle quit responding and when he re-routed power, he interrupted something.

I am probably putting too much into this for now - as it stands, I don't believe I have bad gauges since all of them are out...I have poked several places with the volt meter, including the circuit breaker coming from the battery...I can't find any in-line fuses and again, the dash mounted glass fuses all test good.

Is there something simple (God, let it be something simple) I am missing????

 

[Bondo]

Re: All Gauges Out

Ayuh,...

The gauges are usually powered off the (I) ignition side of the Keyswitch,...
All you can do is follow the power,+ See where it's going, or Not....

 

[Silvertip]

Re: All Gauges Out

It would help to know if this was an outboard or I/O. At the very top of this forum is a sticky titled "Generic Boat Wiring Diagram". It illustrates how the gauges are wired. If you study the diagram, you will see that +12 volts from the ignition switch "A" terminal feeds the first gauge in the string. That terminal feeds the same terminal on the next gauge etc. The same applies to ground. So check #1 is to turn the key on and see if you have +12V on the "A" terminal of the switch. The MASTER switch has nothing to do with the gauges as it is part of the boat harness (accessories). The gauges are powered through the engine harness via the ignition switch. If there is no power on the A terminal you need to investigate the wiring from the switch back to the engine. If you do have +12 volts there, check at the first gauge in the string, then the next, etc. Since nothing works, I would suggest you have a disconnected ground wire at the ground bus, or +12 volts is not reaching the gauges from the switch. The next question may sound funny, but "does the engine turn over and does the tilt&trim work?". If not, check the fuse (probably 20A) under the engine cowl.

 

[Opus]

Re: All Gauges Out

It would help to know if this was an outboard or I/O. At the very top of this forum is a sticky titled "Generic Boat Wiring Diagram". It illustrates how the gauges are wired. If you study the diagram, you will see that +12 volts from the ignition switch "A" terminal feeds the first gauge in the string. That terminal feeds the same terminal on the next gauge etc. The same applies to ground. So check #1 is to turn the key on and see if you have +12V on the "A" terminal of the switch. The MASTER switch has nothing to do with the gauges as it is part of the boat harness (accessories). The gauges are powered through the engine harness via the ignition switch. If there is no power on the A terminal you need to investigate the wiring from the switch back to the engine. If you do have +12 volts there, check at the first gauge in the string, then the next, etc. Since nothing works, I would suggest you have a disconnected ground wire at the ground bus, or +12 volts is not reaching the gauges from the switch. The next question may sound funny, but "does the engine turn over and does the tilt&trim work?". If not, check the fuse (probably 20A) under the engine cowl.

Silvertip, you're great - many thanks. I did use your diagram for wiring posted on several threads...but I'm afraid after several after market add-ons, including a new bilge pump and a few deck lites, the previous owner left me with a bird's nest.

I do appear to have a toggle switch not in use. The aerator was rerouted to a newer automatic aerator control panel on the gunwale. That toggle is right beside the Master. Since I have no desire to tear open the Quicksilver throttle housing, would there be any harm in just running a fresh 10 gauge red to this toggle and then on to the first gauge in the series of gauges?

 

[Opus]

Re: All Gauges Out

ps...1986 Procraft 1650v w/ 115 HP Merc 2 stroke outboard.

 

[Silvertip]

Re: All Gauges Out

Run a new 10 gauge wire from "where". I'm trying to be helpful so don't take me wrong. If you don't know what you currently have, how would you know what to disconnect when you add the new wire. Gauges do not require a 10 gauge wire and they should be switched from the ignition switch, not a separate toggle switch. Make the power and ground checks on the string of gauges. The problem lies in one or the other of those two circuits. The aerator has nothing to do with the gauges. The unused switch has nothing to do with the gauges. Get your test light or voltmeter out and actually test. You are seeking a shortcut that will only add to the birds nest you already have. You don't have to get into the control box to check for power. Check at the +12 volt terminal on each of the gauges. To verify a ground, temporarily run a separate ground wire from BAT NEG terminal to the ground terminal on a gauge.

 

[Opus]

Re: All Gauges Out

Run a new 10 gauge wire from "where". I'm trying to be helpful so don't take me wrong. If you don't know what you currently have, how would you know what to disconnect when you add the new wire. Gauges do not require a 10 gauge wire and they should be switched from the ignition switch, not a separate toggle switch. Make the power and ground checks on the string of gauges. The problem lies in one or the other of those two circuits. The aerator has nothing to do with the gauges. The unused switch has nothing to do with the gauges. Get your test light or voltmeter out and actually test. You are seeking a shortcut that will only add to the birds nest you already have. You don't have to get into the control box to check for power. Check at the +12 volt terminal on each of the gauges. To verify a ground, temporarily run a separate ground wire from BAT NEG terminal to the ground terminal on a gauge.

Hahaha...trust me, I am not taking you wrong...I appreciate the help and patience. What I was talking about was running a hot straight from the battery to the unused toggle and then from the toggle to the first gauge in the series...But please disregard that. You are right....I need to avoid further birds nests and not complicate anything.

At this point its easier to consider shortcuts as trying to look up under the cockpit dash is no fun for a man who needs reading glasses, is juggling multimeter leads and trying to look at the meter.

I am going to bite the bullet and pull the steering wheel then the dash panels and do this thing right.

One quick question - the 12v for the gauges is coming from the ignition - can I assume that there is only 12 v to the gauges when the ignition is in the "On" position???

 

[Opus]

Re: All Gauges Out

Silvertip and Bond-O...mythanks to this point.

I dropped the multimeter and picked up a simple circuit tester instead and screwed myself under the cockpit.

Bad Master switch - the lower lug off the switch throwing power to the fuel gauge was not throwing power...went and picked up a new toggle...fuel gauge works great now...the hot (Purple) went from the fuel gauge to the Tach, and after I replaced the toggle, there was power to the Tach too, so I'll assume that will work now as well...Don't wanna hook up the hose to find out...I'll just wait until I go out again next week.

Next I am going to look at the Speedometer...It has not worked since I got the boat, but while contorting myself under the cockpit, I see that there IS power to it (separate from the hot to the fuel and Tach, but you know that), so my weekend troubleshooting carries on tomorrow.

Tomorrow is supposed to be a great day here in the mid-south, but since my trolling motor is in the shop getting the foot pedal repaired, getting in the water is not in my plans this weekend anyway.

But again, I did want to take the time to give my thanks to you guys...I am sure it will not be the last time!!!!!

 

[Silvertip]

Re: All Gauges Out

News flash on the speedomeer: It doesn't require power to operate. It only needs power for its internal light. The gauge itself works by air pressure compressed in a tube that runs from the pitot at the back of the boat.

 

[Opus]

Re: All Gauges Out

Yeah - I learned that - it's the only thing left I have to play with...reading much on blowing out the tube, etc...I'm digging across the net now looking in to it further. I located the tube in the lower unit just sorta handing out inside the hole. It has a plastic tube plug in it.

Part of me assumes it is supposed to be there and this is what transmits pressure through the tube to the gauge? But I have read many posts where some have complained that the end of the tube was clogged with mud and wood chips, etc., which sounds as if the tube is just supposed to be wide open and unclogged at the lower unit end. Any insite????

By the way, I did find a great graphic to use when I corkscrewed under the dash...You've probably seen it but I have not seen oit posted on any of the boat boards. It gave me a great understanding of what I was looking at under the dash. Of course, there are more gauges, switches and fuses then mine, but it really helped. If you don;t have it already, it might help to give to rookies like me

 

[Silvertip]

Re: All Gauges Out

The tube you located with the plug in it is not what is currently driving your speedometer. Look at the transom of the boat for the white pitot. If you don't have one, then the speedometer tube gets connected to the tube you found on the motor. You have to have one or the other for the speedometer to work. And do not put air pressure from the back to front or you will damage the speedometer.

The diagram you have is for an I/O. The difference between it and the one I told you to look at in the sticky is the ignition switch. Ignition switch wiring between an outboard and an I/O is very different.

 

[Opus]

Re: All Gauges Out

God bless ya...I do have a pitot and it was locked in the horizontal, or up position. Everything looks clear and cleanso I put it in its near verticle position.

I've had enough under dash time this weekend and if it's not operating when I hit the water, I'll play with it then.

A question reference your attached pic. To the right of the pitot you have a transducer...to the right of that you have what looks the same as the transducer for my Furuno. What is the paddle wheel? I have that on mine also...does this give me my speed readout on the Furuno?

(This might not be fun for you, but as a rookie, I am having a blast learning...and I am grateful)

 

[Silvertip]

Re: All Gauges Out

It is a combination speed sensor and water temp sender. They both feed the Lowrance locator.

 

[Opus]

Re: All Gauges Out

It is a combination speed sensor and water temp sender. They both feed the Lowrance locator.

Thanks Silvertip - you have been an incredible help!!!