FORUM RULES UPDATED - The forum rules have been updated to continue to provide a friendly and safe environment for our member community. Please take a moment to review the updated rules and our terms of use and privacy policy. Click here for Forum Rules which has links to the 'terms of use' and 'privacy policy'.
In Other News . . .
You will notice a few enchancements to the forums to make your experience better. These include: Email Notifications, Thread Previews, Thread Starter Notation, and Emoji Options on the 'Like' icon. . .
Additionally, the merchant portions of the website have been updated and are now operational. . . . Check out iBoats for all your boating gear.
Yea TD, usually you can buff out oxidation in gel coat, but once it gets to the point that the flakes are protruding its over with...time to spend alot of money...
Metalflake paint is made up of three layers. The first is a base color which is sprayed onto the hull. The second layer is aluminum flakes in a clear binder that is sprayed over the base coat. Finally a clear coat is sprayed over the flakes.
When I discussed painting my speedboat with a metal flake finish the body shop guy did not want to do it, since the flakes get all over his shop, and make a mess. I would guess it will cost two-three times what a regular paint job goes for.
I used Rustoleum newer "metallic" line of spray paints for my deck. It is pretty metallicy and looks good. This pic doesn't show it well though but this is the color. It has held up well for 2 seasons. I topcoated it with Rustoleum clear.
